The RC Corvette in - (1988) The Dead Pool - Clint Eastwood

[GreenBar0n]

I would use some type of etching primer. Painting aluminum is hard enough, anodized aluminum is even worse.

Will do, got some of this.


Not much anodizing left on the bottom.

[GreenBar0n]

Reference pics of the actual movie car, for this page.

[GreenBar0n]

Looking closer at the movie car's, and there were (2) that were in the movie, I noticed the license plate on Car #2 is 1LKI623, and it has the bad tin foil bumpers.






Car 2 clearly labeled on the transmission brace of 1LKI623.


The first car, or Car #1, was run over by the movie crew on the set, according to one of these classic older TDP threads, Jay had to make Car #2 as a result, in a hurry. Point being Car #1 looks to have the nice hobby grade foil bumpers, 1CW0562.

[RC10resto]

Well, what License Plate number are you going with?

[GreenBar0n]

Well, what License Plate number are you going with?

Seems like 1LKI623 got the most screen time, and was the surviving car, before it was stolen from Gene Husting's office, as the story goes. That one needs to be returned, and not confused with my project.

Car #1 is what I'm going for, the storied smashed one, or 1CW0562.


I gave the above printer a chance for $12, neither of those will be going on anything. I'm going to try another 1/10 license plate maker next.

[GreenBar0n]

The steering blocks, chassis-nose, and shocks are moments from arrival from FanRc. These are the last parts I've been waiting for, then I can paint and dye this project.


The weather is not ideal to paint anything today, but the chassis, at the moment.

[GreenBar0n]

Time to make the donuts.

[Dangeruss]

MMMMM... ...DONUTS!

[GreenBar0n]

Got the primer on, it smoothed out the scratches.


Need to sand some drips, and give it another coat tomorrow, topside is still orange.

Painting in the wind is tough, and it's almost always windy this time of year.

[GreenBar0n]

Need to dye the white plastics next, will read up on that, and decide to what to put in the brew.

[XLR8]

The chassis parts and motor plate look fantastic!

Pardon me, I'll need to avert my eyes while you drop those nice white nylon parts in the dye (so you won't see me cry).

The project is coming along nicely.

[GreenBar0n]

thanks! This TDP corvette is what made me want to get back in to RC in 1988, loved the idea of mounting any car body on an RC chassis.

[GreenBar0n]

I read a bunch of different ways to do the Rit dye. Apparently the formula changed for the normal Rit Black dye a few years ago and made it weaker, that's why I now have the Rit Dyemore Graphite version.

Rather than use the vinegar, or acetone that I've read people use, on the back of the Dyemore bottle it says: 200° water, not boiling, (1) teaspoon Dawn dish soap, doesn't say a ratio of Dyemore to water. Rather than stink up my house with poison acetone gas, or vinegar funk, I'll try the bottle directions first.


Going to use sprue from the RC10 40th to test on, first.


Found these old things in a cabinet.


Perfect to trap the floating parts in and keep them submerged.


Sprue 's away.


Ready for the dye.


Dipped.


Purple Haze.


Direction say 30 minutes, but here is the sprue after 15 minutes.


Going to try a larger piece, at 10 minutes.


Doesn't float like I thought it would.

[GreenBar0n]

10 Minutes in the bath, and the big piece matches the little ones.


Going for it, if the towers don't take, will paint them. Back in 20 with results.


Have the CE black battery cups already. Missed the transmission brace and the servo blocks, need to dig those out and run another dip.

[GoMachV]

Don't give up on the towers early, it's not uncommon for them to take 15-20 minutes at a near boil.