My ReRe Boomerang mods to date

[cas22]

Hi All,
Just like to share some modifications I've been making on my re release boomerang i bought a few years back.
I grabbed this off a bloke a year or so after the 2017 re release. He had partially assembled but not finished the chassis, But kids mortgages etc got in the way and been playing around between projects.

[cas22]

Got bored on night shifts and started to look into making it a bit more interesting, this guy on RC TECH did a lot of mods and has a lot of experience campaigning the boomerang.

https://www.rctech.net/forum/vintage-forum/1005022-build-complete-tamiya-boomerang.html

I added his K&S Tube idea for front slop, specifically #9822 Brass

https://ksmetals.com/products/br45mm-4?variant=42832578183415

And cut a front brace from some 1.5mm Carbon offcut, any thicker and i was worried the arm screws wouldn't bed home tightly.
Also replaced all the Shocks with these from Hobby King in Hong Kong,
They are associated copies and very nice and smooth, They are off a decent 4WD car they used to sell called the BZ-444, and a 2wd variant BZ-222

No longer manufactured i grabbed the shocks for about $10usd a pair, (ignore the pre cart pricing )so good i cleaned them out for other projects too.

[cas22]

Reading up the Front blue plastic roll bar supports are known for their flex, its usual to swap these for big wig parts but i cut up a carbon battery hold down from a yokomo and threaded the carbon to take the tie rod ends to nip up on the bar.
The sway bar dog bones were not adjustable either so made some by using some 3 racing alloy ball ends and now we can ajust out the weight of that motor hanging off the side.

[cas22]

The Rear tower was strong in plastic, however I accidentally sprayed brake cleaner on it and it discolored like a 1970's Tye died T shirt.
More Carbon tracing followed with the 2mm rear tower.
The blue plastic wing mount bothered me so out it went too, swapped it for some piano wire, and Traxxas Rustler wing buttons and Tamiya Egress/Avante wing mounts.
Used these years ago on my B2 and forgot all about them, these are tidy and also act as nuts when using 10mm Spacers and washers to return the shocks to the original position.
Also i put in the Yeah Racing CVD's for the Top Force front and rear too. And replaced all the cars screws for Stainless Cap Head.

[cas22]

With the battery the hard case normal length LIPOs are too long for the plastic battery clips supplied in the kit, and too short for a "shorty" LIPO
So I was stuck either trying to find another 8.4V wider battery clip for both sides

Boomerang battery.png (93.81 KiB) Viewed 761 times

Boomerang battery.png (93.81 KiB) Viewed 761 times

So There is class running Stock Motor, hardly a thirsty beast so i was toying around with making some thing custom and remembered the super shorty lipos i got for my belt drive rocky (unfinished) project.
The were close, Very close, less than 1.5mm from fitting inside the Chassis, so i thought lets try it.
I ran up some hardwood in a very accurate table saw to the same dimensions, put the chassis in warm water and slipped it into place, easy as.
Left it in overnight and sorted.
I realize tat it is "only" 2600 mAh but 90C (it claims) and I'm old enough to remember 1200 SCR cells lasting 5 minutes. They running the Kyosho G27 and the 17T 32DP pinion so I'm sure I will make run time. Generally spend a minute of that being marshalled anyway.
And it clears the driveshaft with about 4mm, so no alloy conversion for me.

[cas22]

So the front had real estate with the shorty servo, so I put the AMB transponder in there, I added a small tray on top for the receiver, and mounted a LRP Quantum 2 on the back.
I'm sourcing an older style non BEC switch to rewire to the original bathtub location on the side for the ESC. Just noticed the servo lead looks tight against the driveshaft, its just moved as i lifted the battery on some associated battery foams to clear the battery pin recess.
This sis where I will mount the lead or brass as close to the front as possible.

The battery is snug but I added a hold down from a cheaper touring car to hold it tight, ran M3 up through the post on chassis at the rear and put a post in the front with thumb screws.
Didn't want it getting up near that driveshaft

[cas22]

Had to do something with that battery space, so I made some side plates from 2mm Carbon and used the factory holes to fit some plastic servo mounts to hold them home.
Keep the dirt out. And kept my Carbon tube retaining screw I mentioned earlier
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=49150.
So I guess we need to see how it goes. Got some annoying vibration coming through at low speed but ill try and nail that down, could be I'm just used to Kyosho and the 1980's driveshaft era is just a bit clunkier. put bearings all through it and put some M2 screws in the front suspension too.
I was looking at a recent race meeting and there were 10 or 15 Boomerangs all the same or similar paint scheme, so got some different colours made up so i can see its mine upside down. Have to stop tinkering and go get it dirty soon.