RC10 Team Car restoration

[uscm1488]

I have a left over black C Mark Team Car chassis from my Worlds car build a few years ago.  I decided that I wanted to build another RC10 so I started collecting parts. First thing I purchased was a rere Worlds car stealth and shocks set.  One night on a wim I won an auction for a RC10 team car. It looked good in pictures. 

It's a complete pile of trash.  The white parts are a dark yellow, screws and nuts are rusted, shocks are a leaky mess and many parts are cracked

I've read about people using peroxide to whiten the yellowed parts, they are currently soaking in it. The rusted screws and nuts are soaking in OJ. Either the OJ will clean them or strip them of all color and render them unusable, we will.soon find out. 

Pics included is the car pre break down. Here we go again. 

[Frankentruck]

Welcome. If it's of any help, this is my method for dealing with the rust monster:

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=48835

[uscm1488]

I'm not sure why I never thought of CLR!!!! The restoration is a mix of rere and restored team car hardware. More pics once I get the kids down.

[JosephS]

Ive been a kurker for a minute, never posted anything. Just lurked. Im prinarily a Tamiya guy, first RC car was an Astute and I always admired the RC10 from a far as I raced my friends Graphite RC10 when we were kids. Anyway fast forward Ive got some spares from a worlds car I did pre covid. I picked up a team car off of Ebay, and man its a wreck. Ive been updating on Tamiya Clube but I thought Id share here too. Hope you enjoy.

I have a left over black C Mark Team Car chassis from my Worlds car build a few years ago.  I decided that I wanted to build another RC10 so I started collecting parts. First thing I purchased was a rere Worlds car stealth and shocks set.  One night on a wim I won an auction for a RC10 team car. It looked good in pictures. 

It's a complete pile of trash.  The white parts are a dark yellow, screws and nuts are rusted, shocks are a leaky mess and many parts are cracked

I've read about people using peroxide to whiten the yellowed parts, they are currently soaking in it. The rusted screws and nuts are soaking in OJ. Either the OJ will clean them or strip them of all color and render them unusable, we will.soon find out. 

Pics included is the car pre break down. Here we go again. 

Looks can be deceiving. Without seeing the other side of the car that looks like it could be in pretty good condition without much work.
I use vinegar to remove surface rust then use steel blue to halt rusting on steel parts.
As long as the outdrives are good in the transmission that looks like a great car.

[uscm1488]

Sorry, second pic of top side added ALL of the metal hardware was/is rusty some on hand OJ loosened it up enough to buff out some rust. Most of the turnbuckes are bent. Vinegar or CLR will be tried for the next build with the remaining hardware not utilized in this restoration. The stealth internals are good but the outdrives are a rusty mess.

Started the restoration by using peroxide to whiten the parts and then soaked in water.

Parts soaking in 6% peroxide.



After. They came out pretty darn good! The battery box hasnt been treated yet in this pic. Good before and after comparison.

[TRX-1-3]

Sorry, second pic of top side added ALL of the metal hardware was/is rusty some on hand OJ loosened it up enough to buff out some rust. Most of the turnbuckes are bent. Vinegar or CLR will be tried for the next build with the remaining hardware not utilized in this restoration. The stealth internals are good but the outdrives are a rusty mess.

Started the restoration by using peroxide to whiten the parts and then soaked in water.

Parts soaking in 6% peroxide.



After. They came out pretty darn good! The battery box hasnt been treated yet in this pic. Good before and after comparison.

Nice. I still think the peroxide trick is one of the most, if not the most, useful things I've learned around here. It's very satisfying to scrub up some filthy old parts and then whiten them up. Enjoy your rebuild!

[uscm1488]

Ok alot of progress done!!! Here we go!!!

Foundation for the build is this team car chassis that waitying around for a build.



Im building this as if AE created a Rere Team Car. To help with that feel IM using Rere World Shocks NOS



A little green slime to keeo the leaks away



The shocks are assembled like any other modern shock.



Looking good!!!!



I didnt record every step of the build. Heres the chassis with the Arms, shock tower and bulk heads installed. Waiting for rod ends, ball studs, and a few other odds and ends. Love the JCconcepts steering
The White stuff loooks great!!! Not as white as I wanted though.

[uscm1488]

What a great fun, simple, and rewarding re-build. AE really knocked it out of the park when they created the RC10!!!

A box of Jcocnepts goodies arrived. I ordered turnbuckles, ball ends, stealth brace and wheels.


Love rere World shocks, the ones on the car were a leaky mess. Once I rebuild those I might put them back on here. Will see

Stealth is good to go

Back where she belongs…..

I love the look of the Jconcepts chassis brace, serves a purpose as well.

Looking good!!

[mikea96]

Looking good! Did you paint the chassis?

[uscm1488]

Looking good! Did you paint the chassis?

The sides and the inside of the tub are original, the bottom was cerekoted semi black, almost a perfect match.

The nose piece is new (forgot to mention that) the chasis bottom was refinished with the cerekote.

[mikea96]

Looks very good

[uscm1488]

Looks very good

Thank you!!! I built up a Worlds a few years ago, I sold it, regretted it and decided to build this with a few parts I ahd left over as the basis. Mainly the chassis.

[uscm1488]

I used RPM ball Cups (where I could) as the ones from the car were really worn and I dont like the rere day glow color. I had to use a couple black AE ball ends I had on the shock tower side as two RPMs Cups would foul on each other. Jconceps turnbuckles used as many of the stock ones were rusted and/or bent. Strong, good looking, and light.



I bought JConcept wheels that were labeled as for the RC10, alas they arent for the old RC10s. THe flange bearings are too small. 3/16 x 3/8 x 1/8 are whats needed. There is some lateral play which is taken up nicely by the washers that are used under the body mounts.



Kudos to RPM, I was worried that the ball cups and the Stealth cover would foul on each other, theres JUST enough room. Well done.




I thought Id like the White ball cups, im not sure now, Ive got a set of black ones that I might install.