SERPENT 988e Taipan

[Trass]

Well here we are.

Finally.. i got this one, it was long and hard to find.

1/8 Chassis SERPENT 988e Taipan.
4 x 4 pancar type.
Ref# 905001


This chassis will be the subject of all my attention while waiting to find a second one to possibly ride with.


It will be equipped with:

- complete stainless steel screws
- fully deanodized and polished aluminum parts
- dummy electronic
- many new parts and/or options ones
- a MAGNIFICENT rare body



Here it is at his arrival with a batch of spart parts;











I was very anxious to try the marvellous 1/8 body i have

it's UOP SHADOW DN4

https://www.google.com/search?q=UOP+SHADOW+DN4&rlz=1C1VDKB_frFR1009FR1009&oq=UOP+SHADOW+DN4&aqs=chrome..69i57.5064j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8











This chassis looks like it has been run a lot, mechanical parts are pretty sane and in good condition, the damage is mainly visual.



Of course, I started dismantling right away last night
















The part fixed with the 5 "orange" bolts, is a homemade part made by the previous owner in order to stiffening the action of the original chassis. This part will certainly not be taken up for reassembly.

The right front part of the front bulk was still in place because the screws were blocked




I managed to unscrew the screws of the front bulk after passing the assembly over the wood stove and a spray of "cold" air on the screw... and it came quite easily.






It will be a money hole ...

For the rebuild, i need to :

- find a new chassis
- find some small missing plastic parts (front "shock absorber" attachment)
- deanodize all the aluminum parts
- polish the aluminum parts once deanodized
- change all screws
- unscrewing a screw on the servo saver that is locked
- make up en clean for the frosted appearance of certain carbon parts
- find a sheet of stickers
- entrust the body to a masterpainter



My fingers are crying



jerome

[Dadio]

This looks extraordinary before restoration , can't wait to see how it comes on .

[Trass]

This looks extraordinary before restoration , can't wait to see how it comes on .

Hi,
Yep, i wanted this chassis since his debut, and now i got this !!!
Waint and see



-----------------------



The stubborn screws got a little Dremel beat on them and they came off quite easily.

M2.5 screws




M3 screws






I tried to "catch up" the carbon, but there are really strong pronounced scratches and wear on the Lipo tray, the rest is quite easily remedied with polish and lot of muscles

Here are the photos of the carbon that I am trying to recover at a lower cost...

Original chassis for tests, because it is out of order, just good for a runner.

On the left as it arrived, on the right once a bit of polish has been applied. (by the way, I noticed that he had taken a scratch







Appearance is brighter




Bulks location shadows have disappeared on the polished side




Lipo supports which are really out of order... as pockmarked, the polish has brought them back a little bit.


Lipo side





Track side




Polished Lipo side (bottom and right in the photos)






The result with the plastic parts is ... not really good...








Otherwise, cleaning of the aluminum parts before deanodizing... the chassis was supposed to have been cleaned on each outing... well, it was not...






Here are the metal / steel / aluminum parts before deanodization.





Deanodization finished... but I'm afraid that the aluminum parts (light gray) deserve a second pass...





Jerome

[Trass]

POLISHING TIME !!!!

























































Jerome

[silvertriple]

you can't help with that, right?

[RC10th]

Introducing a new hit motion picture - "The Polishing"

[Dadio]

It's like playing spot the difference .

[Trass]

you can't help with that, right?

I don't undertand. sorry.

Introducing a new hit motion picture - "The Polishing"

Yep, that was the idea for those pics

It's like playing spot the difference .

Of course, funny game




----------------------


New TITLE : "THE REBUILD"

I follow the manual for assembly:


Step 1: rear pod

nothing special ...






Step 2: rear axle support on rear pod:

Screws in M4 a bit too long, filing and adjustment, I put 3 washers instead of the 4 recommended






Step 3: Drive pulley on rear axle forward

Fitting a new pulley and the brand new aluminum axle









Step 4: fitting the quick release for the left rear wheel:

It hurts your fingers...but it's beautiful!!!






Step 5: mounting the rear axle on the pod:

Whaouuuuuuu!!!




Step 6.1: fitting the drive gear on the rear axle:




Step 6.2: assembly of the right part of the axle and the quick release of the right rear wheel

AND There!!!!!!! BIG MISTAKE, I realize that I forgot a part during the deanodization !!!!!!!!



In short, I do with for now:




This black piece is fine, isn't it?!?


Step 7.1 and 7.2: fitting the transmission return pulleys

Easy as well, with new belts.







Step 8.1 and 8.2: assembly of the front lower axle:

It's nice, the balls would have to be changed... but they cost a kidney!!!!













Stage 11.1 and 11.2 front transmission:

(steps 9 and 10 will come an other day, I really wanted to mount the transmission before)










Always clearly visible this fuckin black washer !!!!

But it's beautiful!!! (except this black washer i forgot to de-anodize )



Jerome

[silvertriple]

you can't help with that, right?

I don't undertand. sorry.

en français dans le texte "Tu peux pas t'en empêcher?"

[Trass]

you can't help with that, right?

I don't undertand. sorry.

en français dans le texte "Tu peux pas t'en empêcher?"

Yes !!! anodising is so different inbetween each part

Jerome

[Lavigna]

This is an incredible build and such a cool looking car. I love all the polished aluminum pieces. I know how much work goes into getting these results. Thanks for sharing.

[Trass]

This is an incredible build and such a cool looking car. I love all the polished aluminum pieces. I know how much work goes into getting these results. Thanks for sharing.

Many thank you!

Hope you will enjoy the result.



---------------------

Good evening,

more rebuild:



Step 12 (12.1 to 12.3): assembly of the front upper arms post:

You can now appreciate the change from the domed head screw to a countersunk screw on the servo saver.













Step 13 (13.1 to 13.3): fitting the front knuckle :












Step 14 and 15: Fitting the knuckle and steering tie rods:

NO PICS...


Step 16: assembly of the back plate of the rear pod:

The unanodised black washer is still there!!!





Step 17: assembly of the rear body support: this will be for later


j

[Trass]

Next step:

Step 18: rear body support bracket

Always so beautiful this black washer...






Step 19: later.



Step 20 and 21: assembly of the front "shock absorbers":

I am missing parts to finalize, these are on order.







Step 22: assembly of the front bumper:

Not on the agenda because the body of the SHADOW does not allow the mounting of this type of bumper



Step 23: 23.1 - 23.2 - 23.3: assembly of the rear pod reinforcement and the belt tensioner:

Quite easy, but a part of the tensioner will have to be touched up because it's not pretty





Step 24: 24.1 and 24.2: assembly of the steering servo plate:






Step 25: 25.1 and 25.2: assembly of the ESC plate and rear pod tie rod (25.1 will be later)






Step 26: mounting the battery holders:

A beautiful crap...







End of day work:

Mounting the wheels, the servo and quick adjustment of the body

- Wheel assembly: OK
- mounting the servo: ok blah ...
- Body adjustment: it will do


So once the servo is installed, big hassle because I hadn't seen that the servo plate was not symmetrical to within 1 mm (nothing in the manual mentions it), so there is a point in being able to install the servo so that it does not touch the belt... So, disassembly and reassembly... By the way, I install lots of aluminum extra "studs" that I have, it's look like jail

Problem once the servo is mounted and especially its lever, the ball joint of the steering rod touches the battery pack, which is to say that it sucks!!!! So I need a 4 to 5 mm shorter lever to have a good margin.

Another problem with the batteries which touches the belt tensioner (when the chassis is in torsion), Bravo Serpent !!! So I played a little on the different possible settings for the positioning of the batteries and it works, almost!

In short, there are also plenty of holes on the chassis to which nothing can be associated, including in the brand options... let's understand...

A washer has also been added to the tie rod between the servo plate and the rear pod, now it's at the same level.

There are two holes on the rear pod plate which coincide with openings on and the chassis and this could limit torsion, see it harden, I tested the aluminum columns, but the one on the belt side touches the belt... there will be filing

On the photos of the belt tensioner you can clearly see the "original" parts that protrude from each side of the tensioner, it's not professional at all. :mod:

The body takes place perfectly, i will have to think about a front bumper and tires adapted for more realistic


Pictures :









































Jerome

[Trass]

Little work with a scrap to test the front bumper to matchbetter with the body.

Only regret... not having done this work with a compass... so it's not 100% symmetrical













Jerome

[Trass]

Tires test :









Need rear tires with a bigger diameter, if you have an idea.


Jérome