Do you display with or without electronics?

[Frankentruck]

What I hate is when servo tape is holding tight and I want the receiver or ESC off. Trying to pry under it will usually gouge up either the electronic casing, the chassis, or both. Twist and pry usually ends up being the technique. Removing servo tape once the electronic is separated from the chassis isn't the problem, it's getting to that point without causing damage that is the struggle.

[TRX-1-3]

What I hate is when servo tape is holding tight and I want the receiver or ESC off. Trying to pry under it will usually gouge up either the electronic casing, the chassis, or both. Twist and pry usually ends up being the technique. Removing servo tape once the electronic is separated from the chassis isn't the problem, it's getting to that point without causing damage that is the struggle.

Have you tried piano wire/guitar string? Slip it under/between and back and forth it while pulling it thru. You need some handles on the ends. Bamboo chopsticks work ok. Pretty much make a miniature murder setup. That got dark quickly. It works though.

Edit:
Any high tensile small diameter string/filament would work. Gut some parachute cord, etc.

[Frankentruck]

For vehicle badge removal many recommend using dental floss. I just try to minimize use of servo tape if I can. That is the main thing that keeps me from fully outfitting my really nice shelfers with electronics.

[juicedcoupe]

Look up "non marring pry tools". They are commonly used to remove interior panels and emblems on full size vehicles.

[R6cowboy]

Look up "non marring pry tools". They are commonly used to remove interior panels and emblems on full size vehicles.

This. Your local Harbor Freight will have a set for under $10.

[Lowgear]

For vehicle badge removal many recommend using dental floss. I just try to minimize use of servo tape if I can. That is the main thing that keeps me from fully outfitting my really nice shelfers with electronics.

I share the same concerns which is why sometimes I don't go the electronics route at all. When I do though, it's the bare minimum necessary. I use a single tiny square piece of tape in the middle of the receiver just to keep it in place. For escs I place 4 tiny squares at each corner since they have more forces being exerted on them from the wiring.

Here are the rules for what makes a shelf queen to me:
- For display use only.
- Has to have wheels and a body. The body being unpainted is acceptable, but 9 times out of 10 I'd like it to be.
- Period correct electronics are optional. Can have partial components such as a servo to hold the wheels straight. Doesn't matter if they're still operational or not due to age.
- Be built using all or a combination of new in packaging, unused out of packaging, or used parts that still look like new. Restoring parts to improve their appearance is on a case by case basis.

The only exception to what I consider a shelf queen is if it's a historically significant used model.

[juicedcoupe]

You guys must use higher quality servo tape than I do.

I use the cheap Great Planes tape and don't generally have issues removing electronics.

[TRX-1-3]

I try to put at least a servo in everything so the steering system isn't flopping around. I am only concerned with full electronics if it is a build I am very passionate about. I skip the batteries though. Don't want to scuff the chassis, disfigure the battery cups, or risk a leak. It is nice to pick up a fully kitted car though and feel the "race weight". Basically I'm too lazy to source batteries and solder them up or get decals, etc.

[1911Colt]

I skip the batteries though. Don't want to scuff the chassis, disfigure the battery cups, or risk a leak.

Excellent point! My Bosscat is perfect, except that at some point in its life it must have been a racer. Someone got sloppy with the soldering iron and burned the chassis by one of the battery slots.

[RC10th]

I must be the odd exception to the rule. Most of my cars are displayed without electronics, much like being built fresh out of the box.

Only my race cars that I've had success with or tributes/clones/mock-ups get painted bodies and or electronics.

[R6cowboy]

You guys must use higher quality servo tape than I do.

I use the cheap Great Planes tape and don't generally have issues removing electronics.

I was wondering the same. I don't recall ever having a problem with removing servo tape, newer nor tape that's been on for 20+ years. Peel a little corner up and lightly pull to stretch it out and it usually comes off rather easy and clean. Sometimes in larger sections, sometimes in smaller sections if its stubborn. Any glue residue always rubs off easily with a thumb.

[threesheds]

I skip the batteries though. Don't want to scuff the chassis, disfigure the battery cups, or risk a leak.

Excellent point! My Bosscat is perfect, except that at some point in its life it must have been a racer. Someone got sloppy with the soldering iron and burned the chassis by one of the battery slots.

I regard signs of "use" as patina like maybe a dent in antique silver. Shows a bit of history. Mint is reserved for toothpaste or maybe creme de menthe!

[TokyoProf]

Here are the rules for what makes a shelf queen to me:
- For display use only.
- Has to have wheels and a body. The body being unpainted is acceptable, but 9 times out of 10 I'd like it to be.
- Period correct electronics are optional. Can have partial components such as a servo to hold the wheels straight. Doesn't matter if they're still operational or not due to age.
- Be built using all or a combination of new in packaging, unused out of packaging, or used parts that still look like new. Restoring parts to improve their appearance is on a case by case basis.

The only exception to what I consider a shelf queen is if it's a historically significant used model.

Really good points that I agree with concerning shelf display. I would add that unpainted bodies are okay for me in rare cases where electronics look more beautiful being exposed. Gomach suggested in another post about wanting to paint half the body with the other half clear. That was ideal for me too... but I would feel still feel guilty not painting the whole body.

Some cars look decent with a clear body (YZ10s, dogfighters) and full electronics. I'm thinking red or yellow Sanyos, blue or orange speed controls, and colorful nice wiring, and soldering.
Some buggies, look good with limited electronics (maybe just a servo and colorful motor) RC10B4, or RC10 graphite(naked or without a body ok). They look clean and symmetric and functional.