Rebuilding a RC10 CE 1990

[Passifoo]

Hello.
As said in my presentation I put some photos of my RC10 CE which spent 20 years in its box in the garage.
It is a model with the 6-gear gearbox, bearings everywhere, a ROBBE ECO 2-WAY 27Mhz AM radio, standard 27-turn YOKOMO motor, and a homemade electronic speed variator based on a plan from the AUTO-RCM magazine. .
Here are some pictures out of the box.
The box:

The car:

Without body:

Some holes:

Yokomo motor, 6 gears trans, RPM suspension mount with 2x3° toe in:

Home made ESC (6xBUZ11 transistors):

Hole in bottom too:

Light front wheels:

The ROBBE ECO withe home made case. The original case has melted in the sun on the rear window of the car.
27Mhz, AM...

Some wheels, the manual:

Others photos on the next posts.

Bye.

[Passifoo]

With age the plastic of the motor pinion has broken:

The loader i built:

The charge was cut off when the battery temperature exceeded a certain threshold.
There was a sensor like this on each pack:

And here are some pictures of the buggy today.
plastics parts have been in water with detergent for a month:

Matallics parts are in oil for a month too.
Rear parts:

Front parts:

And finally to complete the buggy:

Some plastic parts broke during disassembly. I will show you next time.

Bye from france.

[Frankentruck]

The home made ESC is excellent.

[Passifoo]

Here are the pages of the magazine which explains the assembly of the ESC : it is in french...)

Bye.

[RC10th]

Very interesting article, if only there was an English version.

[Passifoo]

Hello.
Here are the broken parts.
The plastic ball rod ends, 6 of 14 are broken:

The two parts of the servo saver are broken:

Two of the four plastic rod end of the shocks are broken:

Associated parts are no longer available, I don't know what I'm going to replace them with.
If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.
Thank you.

[juicedcoupe]

These are nearly identical in size to the original ball cups.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/crc-steering-ball-cups-8-cln1231/p33020?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIibG1wbPI9gIVs25vBB04LQwlEAQYASABEgKWwvD_BwE

There are several options available for bellcranks.

The Factory Works is a nice option, just be aware that they require shorter links. JConcepts also makes a nice aluminum one, if you can find them.

For shock ends, nearly any 4-40 or M3 link can be made to work.

[Passifoo]

Hello.
Thank you for the answers.
Do you think that turbuckles 4-40 can be screwed (in force) in M3 plastic ball rod ends. I saw plastic ball rod ends with ball ends in a French online store.
For the servo saver I think I will order a Dhawk one. I will avoid ordering from the United States, the taxes and shipping costs are very high.
The threads of the transmission housing were dead, I put small metal inserts with an M4 thread. Same for the rear bulkhead.

Bye.

[juicedcoupe]

I have used 4-40 turnbuckles in several 3mm plastic ends. The size difference is marginal.

Be careful with different ball ends at the bellcrank and front camber links (inside). Things can get tight in that area on a RC10. Some links and cups just won't clear.

[juicedcoupe]

I forgot that Schumacher has several ball cups that use the same size ball as the earlier RC10. Those might be easier to source.

[Passifoo]

Hello.
I would like to run my RC10 (6 gears) with a brushless 17,5t. In others posts I read that the black gears (intermediate) are fragile with brushless. What can they be replaced by?
The black gear seems to be 32DP, a motor gear 32DP run well on it... Is it able to adapt a 32 DP 22 tooth?
Thank you for the answers.

[juicedcoupe]

The original white idle gears are the weak ones. The newer black ones are better.

Some people have modified steel outdrives for use as idle gears.

I have also seen 3D printed brass gears but have no idea about their quality.

[Passifoo]

Hello.
I bought a few parts to replace the damaged ones.
6274 plastic ball rod ends:

impossible to find them in white, black will do it.

An alumium save servo with ball bearing, from Dhawk Racing:

[Passifoo]

An aluminium rear bulkhead (Dhawk Racing too):

[Frankentruck]

For the steering, I suggest that you compress the front suspension and move the steering back and forth to the left and right to make sure there isn't contact between the ball cups for the steering and at the back side of the front shock tower. This is a good time in your build process to be certain everything will clear.

The build looks to be coming along nicely.