Mutt Inator10 VRF

[radioactivity]

I appreciate the effort Juiced

Guess the hunt is still on...

Think I may at least contact muddslidemotorsports to see if they have any hopefully vintage options.
A long enough axle, or even too long, with some sort of threaded end is probably what I need.
I can remove the hub that is on the existing axle and CA and/or pin it to the new axle.

Chuck

[juicedcoupe]

Maybe contact Lefthander.

https://lefthander-rc.com/catalog/index.php

They sell lots of pan car stuff.

[radioactivity]

My assumption on the approximate age would be 1985-1989.
Probably should have included this pic to show the rest of the hub/spindle/thrust assembly.


parma axle.3.JPG

The other spur gear hub, behind the spur gear, is bonded to the axel.
There are no bearings contained within the shown aluminum hub assembly other than the ball diff on one end and thrust on the very end of the axle.
I think this may be what you are referring to.

Chuck

That looks like a Parma Pro Panther 10 hub...which raises the question of why did whoever make your car go with the narrower 1/12 Parma pod if a wider 1/10 pod (w/ ride height adjustment) was also available?

Anyway I'd estimate the age of your car being 1988-89. Prior to '87, 1/10 on-road was either the Bolink class, or converted buggies, and the Vicfor front beam plus Parma hub would have been available in 1988. Honestly, I wouldn't be surprised if your car turned out to be an early prototype for Art Carbonell's Vicfor pan cars.

Thanks Phin

Your thoughts almost echo the original poster, V12, in his efforts 10 years ago to try and identify his car.
The Parma Pro Panther 10 hub is almost certainly a match as well.
I am no expert on much of anything and surely not on vintage 1/10 scale pan cars.
Only had 1 Delta p12 Spyder to race during the cold months way back when.
Thanks again.

Chuck

[GoMachV]

Credit to Danonite

Not positive but check the shape… would explain the wheelbase being 1/10 and the 1/12 pod

[GoMachV]

Dan also spotted this. Magic Touch? Vicfor beam and Parma pod

[radioactivity]

Wow Jeff
I do believe you found the manufacturer


I have never heard of Magic Touch, pretty obscure I guess.


So many identical/similar parts
1. Same Parma rear axle pod
2. Same front axle. This is the first front axle with a vertical 4-40 screw and nut inboard of the steering block that I have seen. A steering stop???
3. The same body posts as the rear of my car
4. The same ??upper t-plate to axle pod damper thing?? as V10s car has and very similar to mine
5. The same wing bumpers and wing bumper hardware
6. Looks like the same rear spindles, hubs and spacer arrangement
&. Very similar style chassis openings

What a fun adventure and thank you. I can sleep again

Thanks for all the other help from everyone else as well...


Chuck

[radioactivity]

Dang so excited I double posted


Chuck

[GoMachV]

Note that the “Magic Touch” appears hand written so it may not be the mfr

[radioactivity]

But it is so nicely written. Nearly calligraphy.
Finely practiced penmanship, so it's gotta be so, right????
And it says it twice!!

I just can't stay up all night looking for ghosts.


Chuck

[Phin]

Credit to Danonite

Not positive but check the shape… would explain the wheelbase being 1/10 and the 1/12 pod

Might be related to the OMS car, but I don't see how the front end of radioactivity's car could be narrowed enough to fit under a 1/12 drag car body. The Vicfor beam is too wide and the chassis itself looks too wide for a front beam from a Delta Spyder.

[radioactivity]

In so far as the axle is concerned...

I took RC10th's suggestion as well as the same suggestion from skpstr. I both emailed pics & called Muddslide Motorsports. https://muddslidemotorsports.com
They manufacture axles from graphite blanks as well as manufacturing and repping many other RC products.
I talked to both JD and his dad. They are providing me a 1/4" diameter graphite axle with the proper 8/32 threaded end and proper length. It will have no drive hub installed.
Apparently newer hubs don't have the same profile as the older hubs like the original on my car. It's the area where the center of the spur gear rides.
I will press the original hub on the axle blank. That's will be about as original as it can get.
JD and his dad at muddslide were extremely friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. Big recommendation.

Chuck

[radioactivity]

With the new axle on it's way I thought I'd try to caress the diff hub off the old axle.
The removal went off without a hitch.
Heated the hub with a heat gun, a drilled 1/4" hole in a block of wood and a few light taps with a small hammer and the hub came right off.
There may have been some sort of adhesive, but hard to tell.

I used CA to repair the crack but with all the other damage (gouges etc.) to the axle it should be replaced.
I'm beginning to wonder if a graphite axle was OEM. The pic of V12's car almost looks metal and his car is presently packed away, so no current reference point.
But this is what was on this car...

Chuck

[radioactivity]

The new axle was actually intended for a 10L but no hub was ever installed.
I needed to take a couple of thousandths off the diameter at the right end to put the original hub on the new axle. 3000 wet sandpaper, axle in a drill and many, many measurements.
I was shooting for about .001" interference fit.

The original hub actually has a very small (.001" taper) so I added a slight taper on the shaft where the hub rests.
Also put a drop or two of threadlock on the axle where the hub rests.
A couple of drilled wood blocks, a heat gun to heat the hub and a small hammer is all it took.
The right end of the axle past the hub is now also slightly longer. Originally the axle only made it 1/2 way through the outer thrust washer.\
Left end of the axle is just proud of being flush with the left hub as seen looking into the wheel.

Chuck

[radioactivity]

I just got a new pair of front wheels and already had a pair of donuts.
Glued and trued the tires.
I chucked the tires/wheels in a drill press and a dremel with a sanding drum strapped to the table.
Turned out OK and looks much better than the broken black wheels with cracked tires.
Still need to trim the rears, they are in much better shape than the fronts.

Chuck

[radioactivity]

Thought I might try and replicate what may be the original style T-plate for the car.
V12's car is the only reference, shown below.

So I tried to grab some approximation off his car from his post. First made a sketch, then a printable template.\
Found some G10 on Ebay.
Dremel, files and sandpaper later I have a rough copy.
Still needs some work.

Questions are...

Does some type of foam or rubber washer/pad usually go under the T-plate?
Would the two screw at the front of the T-plate be there to tweak the chassis?
Would those screws typically be set screws?
Really hard to tell from the picture.

Chuck