The unbuilding and boxing of an rc10t2
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The unbuilding and boxing of an rc10t2
I got this idea when asking about how to store a collection.
I had bought an extra rc10t2 and an excellent condition chassis. I kinda had the parts all over the place and was inspired by this find
https://site.petitrc.com/setup/associated/setuprc10t2/10T2_ExplodedView.pdf
Typically I try to run my ‘best’ parts in my runners, but this leaves me with a bunch of nip stuff that is too good for a runner and something that I’m not likely to turn to when I need something for repair. So I wind up with a bunch of nip parts in the way when I am looking for something.
I decided to do the opposite and gather up all my best parts and organize them by rebagging them into the kit specific bags.
I am pretty sure that some of you go to this effort on most of your builds but man is it a lot of work. So I am going as far to pull the prettier parts off existing runners. I am also working to not actually purchase new parts, though I will pick up a new j concepts nose plate and tubes.
But it has helped me simplify my collection of one off nip parts.
I had a single nip 1.32 and 1.02 hard anodized shock.
These easily become part of the kit because they are the best quality shock bodies I have. From there I pick the best of the open stock. Before I was trying to figure out what to do with the ‘orphan’ parts.
Transmission bag A is a pair of MIP light drives,a bee diff gear and a MIP associated diff kit.
Getting the actual correct little bits is hard. I nearly went down a crazy rabbit hole because of the 6474 shock cup and collar reissue… associated reissued that same part number from the 10t but changed the part design. The car actually came with 3 t2 style ones and one gold pan style. They all had the same part number. I finally found a proper set for $50. I changed it up with a set up 6475 preloads, which also stops me from buying threaded shocks.
Had a 6440 rebuild kit, the piston kit and the gold shock shafts and bleeder caps and the shock ends all nip.
All the body mounts are being replaced by new RPM adjustable mounts.
I keep thinking I am parts complete then run into something that I am missing when I try and complete each bag.
Since I like collecting it’s rewarding. I also like using my vacuum bagger for parts. I won’t have to worry about any contamination or rust.
I have all of the documentation, so I am working on the tool sets ,box and tires, though I am sure I will need some fasteners that I don’t have in good condition.
I had bought an extra rc10t2 and an excellent condition chassis. I kinda had the parts all over the place and was inspired by this find
https://site.petitrc.com/setup/associated/setuprc10t2/10T2_ExplodedView.pdf
Typically I try to run my ‘best’ parts in my runners, but this leaves me with a bunch of nip stuff that is too good for a runner and something that I’m not likely to turn to when I need something for repair. So I wind up with a bunch of nip parts in the way when I am looking for something.
I decided to do the opposite and gather up all my best parts and organize them by rebagging them into the kit specific bags.
I am pretty sure that some of you go to this effort on most of your builds but man is it a lot of work. So I am going as far to pull the prettier parts off existing runners. I am also working to not actually purchase new parts, though I will pick up a new j concepts nose plate and tubes.
But it has helped me simplify my collection of one off nip parts.
I had a single nip 1.32 and 1.02 hard anodized shock.
These easily become part of the kit because they are the best quality shock bodies I have. From there I pick the best of the open stock. Before I was trying to figure out what to do with the ‘orphan’ parts.
Transmission bag A is a pair of MIP light drives,a bee diff gear and a MIP associated diff kit.
Getting the actual correct little bits is hard. I nearly went down a crazy rabbit hole because of the 6474 shock cup and collar reissue… associated reissued that same part number from the 10t but changed the part design. The car actually came with 3 t2 style ones and one gold pan style. They all had the same part number. I finally found a proper set for $50. I changed it up with a set up 6475 preloads, which also stops me from buying threaded shocks.
Had a 6440 rebuild kit, the piston kit and the gold shock shafts and bleeder caps and the shock ends all nip.
All the body mounts are being replaced by new RPM adjustable mounts.
I keep thinking I am parts complete then run into something that I am missing when I try and complete each bag.
Since I like collecting it’s rewarding. I also like using my vacuum bagger for parts. I won’t have to worry about any contamination or rust.
I have all of the documentation, so I am working on the tool sets ,box and tires, though I am sure I will need some fasteners that I don’t have in good condition.
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Re: The unbuilding and boxing of an rc10t2
Tranny bag is done
Bag A MIP light drives 1189
Diff gear 7664
MIP Asc diff rebuild kit
Bag b Original kit bearing and a refurbished bushing
Bag c Original kit transmission enclosure and bushing
Bag D New top shaft and idler
Bag e Cleaned up
Inner and outer hubs
Thrust bushings springs and pins
Bag f Nip 6291
Nip 6820/6568
Cleaned screws
Motor plate bag Plate and rear guard touched up with aluminum black
Gear cover bag Rpm 8018 gear cover
Main bag 7373 nip
Grease is in bag A
Bag A MIP light drives 1189
Diff gear 7664
MIP Asc diff rebuild kit
Bag b Original kit bearing and a refurbished bushing
Bag c Original kit transmission enclosure and bushing
Bag D New top shaft and idler
Bag e Cleaned up
Inner and outer hubs
Thrust bushings springs and pins
Bag f Nip 6291
Nip 6820/6568
Cleaned screws
Motor plate bag Plate and rear guard touched up with aluminum black
Gear cover bag Rpm 8018 gear cover
Main bag 7373 nip
Grease is in bag A
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Re: The unbuilding and boxing of an rc10t2
This project seems to be devolving into a me finding NIP parts and adding them to the box...
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Re: The unbuilding and boxing of an rc10t2
A bit more done.
Suspension arm bag. I managed to find a set of nip rear arms for list price plus shipping so I added them Rear tire and wheel bag I was able to find a pair of nip 7822 tires with included 7880 inserts for the same price as a modern tire set so I added them.
Suspension arm bag. I managed to find a set of nip rear arms for list price plus shipping so I added them Rear tire and wheel bag I was able to find a pair of nip 7822 tires with included 7880 inserts for the same price as a modern tire set so I added them.
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Re: The unbuilding and boxing of an rc10t2
Adding documentation. I have the manual, catalog and tuning sheet. Does anyone know if there were any other documents that shipped with the kit?
- Lavigna
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Re: The unbuilding and boxing of an rc10t2
This is a really cool idea and definitely satisfies my OCD 
My Photo Gallery --->https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=38934
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Re: The unbuilding and boxing of an rc10t2
The obsessive compulsive part makes it hard. I have 2 nip sets of wheels that are white. It leaves me questioning myself, "is it really done if the wheels aren't the kit yellow?"
The answer is yes it is done, but no it isn't.
This is an enjoyable project.
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Re: The unbuilding and boxing of an rc10t2
Nope. I am hoping to find one for a price that I can be ok with. If not it'll be fine.
- juicedcoupe
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Re: The unbuilding and boxing of an rc10t2
Probably isn't going to get much better than this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-team-associated-RC10-T2-sport-7012-box-only-/185081111576?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-team-associated-RC10-T2-sport-7012-box-only-/185081111576?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Always looking for new and interesting ways to waste money.
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Re: The unbuilding and boxing of an rc10t2
I'll think about taking another swipe on that. I've made offers before, but none high enough for the seller to part with it.juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sat Feb 19, 2022 8:12 pm Probably isn't going to get much better than this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-team-associated-RC10-T2-sport-7012-box-only-/185081111576?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
I see so few boxes I don't really have a scope for what they should cost.
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Re: The unbuilding and boxing of an rc10t2
Got a T2 last year as a local partial trade and flipped the truck on ebay but still have the box.
This one is a little out of place in my collection. PM me if interested, not sure where you are located, would have to figure out shipping.
The JRX-T box behind it has a nearly complete truck all in individual replacement parts, I might have to unbuild a duplicate car into one of the other boxes.
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Re: The unbuilding and boxing of an rc10t2
Front wheel bag completed. Using the proline 2 stage foams in place of the 7880. I had a set of unmounted edge tires so away they go.
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Re: The unbuilding and boxing of an rc10t2
Thanks to aconsola I now have a very nice condition 10t2 box to place the parts in. I finished bag 7-2 servo saver/ steering along with a new jconcepts body and wing.
With the actual box comes a challenge to fit the pieces inside Does anyone have pictures of the bags for a nib t2? I suspect that the tires,foams and rims came pieced together to save space in the box. I wonder if the body was not bagged as well. It’s a tight fit and I have 5 bags left. Main/Tool, front end,drive train, shocks front and rear.
With the actual box comes a challenge to fit the pieces inside Does anyone have pictures of the bags for a nib t2? I suspect that the tires,foams and rims came pieced together to save space in the box. I wonder if the body was not bagged as well. It’s a tight fit and I have 5 bags left. Main/Tool, front end,drive train, shocks front and rear.
- juicedcoupe
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Re: The unbuilding and boxing of an rc10t2
I'd put the inserts into the tires to save room. Maybe even slip the tires and wheels together.
Always looking for new and interesting ways to waste money.
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