Restoring Black Plastic Parts

[big_brian]

Was working on a MP6 restoration - and some of the black plastic parts are faded etc. What is the easiest way to restore them? I have seen some posts for paint, dyes, silicon, petroleum jelly etc. I am hoping for easy - but would like it to last! Thanks for all your help! Brian

[morrisey0]

Dying with Rit Dye is the easiest method. You can always dye darker than what you have now. $2 Dye and about 30 minutes on the stovetop.

[radioactivity]

I believe Rit Dye More has been the dye of choice for most jobs.

Dye More.JPG (18.38 KiB) Viewed 1457 times

Dye More.JPG (18.38 KiB) Viewed 1457 times

Chuck

[Frankentruck]

Rit dye is only for nylon, correct? Well, maybe fiberglass too.

[TRX-1-3]

Rit dye is only for nylon, correct? Well, maybe fiberglass too.

Definately fabric. Nylon and everything else is a bonus use.

EDIT:
Ah, I see your concern now, Frankentruck. Yes, if the parts are not nylon, the dye won't penetrate. I guess folks have also had success dying fiberglass parts although the procedures are a little different. Fiberglass takes a long time to accept the dye.

Here is a link to a "Rit dye and dying nylon" search of the forum:

https://www.rc10talk.com/search.php?keywords=Rit+dye+more+nylon+parts&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sr=topics&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

[Frankentruck]

I don't know what plastics are used in an MP6, but of there's any faded ABS then I'm thinking that Rit dye wouldn't be the way to go for that.

[big_brian]

I think the MP6 has nylon (glass filled) parts? Is there any way to tell if they are plastic or nylon? I imagine plastic will not bend - so suspension parts will probably be nylon. Anything else - I think my wife will kill me if I get black dye everywhere - especially if I have to boil it on the stove!!!! I tend to be a little messy and careless. I think Krylon Fusion spray paint works - but it is for plastic.

[Lowgear]

If I ever attempted to dye parts, it would be outside or at least in the garage. I bought an electric 'hot plate' off of Amazon for heating nitro engine cases for bearing removal. I'd use that, and a sacrificial pot.

[Frankentruck]

I bought empty steel paint cans so I can store and reuse my leftover dye.

[juicedcoupe]

I do it in the kitchen, on a white stove.

Put foil on the counter top and work next to the stove.

Keep a wet towel for cleaning up any splashes.


Remember, you want it hot, not boiling. So splashes should be limited to while handling pieces.

[Frankentruck]

I keep it between 145 and 150 F. My only worry is that dye vapors might color the ceiling so I cover the container with a paper towel while in process.

[morrisey0]

I do my dying in the two smaller pots of the four piece HFT SS stock pot set that I think is like $25 or $30. The largest one is actually a pretty good size for low country boils. I dye on the kitchen stovetop, and haven't had any issue. I bring the liquid to boil, lower the heat and add parts, simmer for 15-30 minutes until confident in the color. Rinse in SS colander under faucet.

I know there are plastics that don't accept dye well, but I haven't run into them yet. I just did my sprint car wheels last week without issue, and they are modern unknown plastic. Side note on that, RIT Graphite Grey is pretty darn much black.

[big_brian]

Thanks for all the help!!!!!! I might try a couple with Krylon paint as well - and see what the difference is. Thanks again. Brian

[RC10resto]

Well, I would stay away from paint
RC parts have been being Dyed for almost 40 years because it works

[big_brian]

OK. Will do. Just noticed a couple other posts used paint. But more used dye. Thanks again Brian.