The cheapest tub pan on eBay

[JosephS]

I had an idea for a project that I am trying to keep to parts I have on hand and under $100 in other parts.

I found the least expensive tub on eBay and bargained the price down. It arrived in time for the weekend and I am excited.

From the eBay pics it was scratched and had some damage but it was in better shape than it appeared.

I

Once cleaned up it was easy to see that it was quite bent. On a flat surface it could be rocked. So the hammer came out and the sound of bells filled the air.

Next it was time to tackle the damage by the motor mount. Aluminum is very forgiving to work with. Heavy duty tin snips are enough to cut through the 2mm chassis. A small grinding wheel shaped the edges.

Next it was time to drill holes for the transmission. I didn’t have a template so I used another chassis.

The transmission did mount up but I have a feeling the holes are slight mid aligned.

I started using bondo glaze to fill the holes and scratches but ran out of light. Still I got a lot done in an hour.

[JosephS]

got a jump on this is the morning. I applied the bondo and sanded it back down to the bare tub.

The spots of filler indicate low point and holes that were filled.

I use a full sheet of sandpaper on a ceramic tile to have a super flat surface for sanding. The chassis still has some bends in it so for those parts I used a sponge to back the paper. I am using a filling primer paint for this stage so any light scratches should be corrected out.


I wasn’t quite patient enough and had a bit of clogging on the sandpaper but this is only the primer step. I was able to get 3 coats down and sanded with progressively finer paper so far. I like the results.

It’s time to let it dry and stick in on the bench while I finish my current build. The paint I am using is just to soft to run so I will have to think about a finish I was thinking of how to finish the inside and I may leave it as is to do a heart of gold build.

The great thing about this is that bondo and paint are easily stripped from anodized aluminum so all of this can be undone

[ELF-BMX]

Nice work, im about to pull out some bondo for some experiments on a couple of trashed tubs myself. Looking forward to the progress.

[JosephS]

Nice work, im about to pull out some bondo for some experiments on a couple of trashed tubs myself. Looking forward to the progress.

I have some ideas please let me know how it goes for you. Buying a trashed tub gives me freedom to try stuff.
I used Bondo glaze and spotting putty which is not like traditional Bondo. Its a very thin product nearly to the point of running. Bondo spotting and glazing putty shrinks in the center of larger fills, 3/16" of an inch. On smaller areas such as scratches it's perfect.(I ran out of regular Bondo once I realized I could add wood shaving or gypsum and use it for nearly every household repair. )

The shrinkage became more apparent over time. I may sand down what I have, over fill and try again. I would think that using regular bondo and the putty in a combination would be a the right path to take.

After my start I started using tape to back the hold I was filling to create a clean flat fill.

I have been using the very inexpensive harbor freight wet/dry sanding paper. It's important to clean the painted surface and the sandpaper between passes. Rubbing alcohol dried quick enough and didn't harm the paint I was using.

I was using the wrong tools to flatten my chassis. Given the goal of the project I wasn't going to spend on tools. I was using the edge of a 2x6 as my anvil. It should gave been planed and sanded flat. Lumber isn't meant to be flat surface. The big issue was my hammer. I was using a 4# steel hammer with a towel to protect the surface. The proper tool is a deadblow mallet like the hammers here
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-standard-dead-blow-hammer.html . They are designed for metal working.

I don't know what to do for paint and a surface. I had painted the nose piece before and the paint got pretty tore up just in my parts box. I am not sure if an automotive clear coat will be a hard enough surface. It's also pretty expensive. I got some xpel automotive paint protector to try https://www.xpel.com/shop/paint-protection-film/ultimate-plus
you can buy small amount of it cheaply. I spent around $4 for a 4" by 1 foot strip.

I can't wait to see what you do.

[juicedcoupe]

Por 15 is ideal for something like this, but it likely cost more than you paid for the pan.

For something on the cheap, I'd probably use Rustoleum spray bedliner. Its tough and the texture (sandy) hides imperfections.

[JosephS]

Por 15 is ideal for something like this, but it likely cost more than you paid for the pan.

For something on the cheap, I'd probably use Rustoleum spray bedliner. Its tough and the texture (sandy) hides imperfections.

it's already pretty smooth so there isn't much to hide with a texture. It's more that I'll want a hard outer paint.I'll have to see if given a 30 day cure if what I am using hardens up. if not, epoxy may be the answer.

[JosephS]

So the paint I used never cured so I took this bad boy is going for anodizing.
Normally it's like 3 figures to anodize, I found someone willing to do it for 2 figures.
The catch is I have to do all the stripping and prep of metal.

Only after an extensive amount of work do I realize how bad of an idea this is.

It would be worth it to pay back and forth shipping and $60 to have the old anodize removed. Even though that is on top of the cost of the actual anodizing. It's basically consumed the few hours a week I get for my RC hobby.

Anodizing is easy to damage to damage but difficult to remove 100% especially from the corners in a chassis. The way the chassis were originally formed just about every surface has a 'lip.' There are no flat areas on the chassis sides.

After trial an error I am basically wet sanding down with eayoff heavy duty oven spray after letting it soak. This is after multiple 3 minute soaks in heavy duty easy-off cleaner. Even then pulling all the finish off curved surfaces, then into each and every and dent that can't be removed is tedious. At least I could get a wire brush into the details of the stamped nose plate logo. I am also careful about sanding all in the same direction so the metal appears to have 'grain'

I stripped 2 chassis so far, including nose pieces. I am considering not stripping the motor plates, or going for a duo tone motor plate where only outsides are sanded to bare metal for a refinish. I may do my shocks since I can just chuck them into a drill and wet sand them clean.

I did this specifically to understand metal finishing better so this has been successful in that respect.

[juicedcoupe]

A blast cabinet will make quick work of it.

[flatspunout]

Try Whink Rust Stain Remover for stripping the ano, you can get it at Walmart. I’ve used it to strip paintball marker parts in minutes. Not sure how well it will work on the hard anodizing Associated used, but worth a shot.

[morrisey0]

Greased Lightning from WM takes anodizing off in a few of hours. $1.98 for 32 ounces. I have stripped down three AE aluminum chassis with it with no issue.

[JosephS]

Greased Lightning from WM takes anodizing off in a few of hours. $1.98 for 32 ounces. I have stripped down three AE aluminum chassis with it with no issue.

How is it on the bare aluminum? I have been worried about pitting the aluminum easy off seems to be more active on the bare metal this it is on the anodized parts.

[JosephS]

Try Whink Rust Stain Remover for stripping the ano, you can get it at Walmart. I’ve used it to strip paintball marker parts in minutes. Not sure how well it will work on the hard anodizing Associated used, but worth a shot.

The older AE pieces,gold and black pan, are non-hard anodized. Only the newer chassis are hard anodized so this might work.

[JosephS]

A blast cabinet will make quick work of it.

If I only had one.

[morrisey0]

Greased Lightning from WM takes anodizing off in a few of hours. $1.98 for 32 ounces. I have stripped down three AE aluminum chassis with it with no issue.

How is it on the bare aluminum? I have been worried about pitting the aluminum easy off seems to be more active on the bare metal this it is on the anodized parts.

I have had zero pitting issues with Greased Lighting. I have one complete chassis that I just run bare, and I did another complete chassis prior to powder coating, and no issues. I did this nose a few weeks ago and it has just been sitting around:

To be honest, I have an abrasive cabinet, and choose the chemical method over it.

[JosephS]

Greased Lightning from WM takes anodizing off in a few of hours. $1.98 for 32 ounces. I have stripped down three AE aluminum chassis with it with no issue.

How is it on the bare aluminum? I have been worried about pitting the aluminum easy off seems to be more active on the bare metal this it is on the anodized parts.

I have had zero pitting issues with Greased Lighting. I have one complete chassis that I just run bare, and I did another complete chassis prior to powder coating, and no issues. I did this nose a few weeks ago and it has just been sitting around:
bare alumium nose (temp).jpg

To be honest, I have an abrasive cabinet, and choose the chemical method over it.

Now I have to find that stuff. My local Hardware store didn't have it so I'll need to go further. those results look great. I finished off the chassis I was working on with a steel wire wheel on a drill. It wasn't subtle.

Do you just soak the parts? IF so for how long?

is this the brand you are referring to
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Greased-Lightning-32-oz-Super-Strength-Multi-Purpose-Cleaner-and-Degreaser-17569248593/300802077