Hex axle option

[juicedcoupe]

Looking at the B4/SC10 steering blocks (#9880), I noticed that the bearings were only slightly smaller than 5X10X3 mm bearings.

I reamed the steering blocks with a 25/64 drill bit by hand. The fit on the 10mm bearings is tight.

I also had to open up the center enough to allow the axle to pass through.

The 5mm axle is very close to the kingpins. One of mine cleared and the other required minor clearance work on the axle. Only took a few minutes with a drill mini file.


For the axle, I chose the Pro SC10 (#71127). The length is near perfect. Mine only required one 3X5mm shim (.2mm, Kyosho 96641) each to set endplay.


Also, the axles for a Traxxas Stampede or Rustler will fit as well. They would require some 5mm ID shims to set endplay.

[JosephS]

What caster block are you using?
I am also I familiar with that type of axle. How it is held in to the steering block? Is there a clip or retainer of some kind ?

Thanks!

[juicedcoupe]

That is the 20° block for an SC10 and RC10B4 and T4. They are harder to find than the 30° but are what you really want with an older car.

The axles are retained by a short M3 screw.

[JosephS]

That is the 20° block for an SC10 and RC10B4 and T4. They are harder to find than the 30° but are what you really want with an older car.

The axles are retained by a short M3 screw.

What offset wheels would be needed for the rc10/10t?


So to take a vintage rc10/rc10T to 12mm hex front axles the

So as a list it would be :


30 blocks be Part# ASC7922 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-30-deg.-caster-block-l-r-asc7922/p9112?r=0
OR
20 degree part # ASC9592 https://www.ashfordhobby.com/p-4332-team-associated-caster-block-20-2-b4t4.aspx
steering ASC9880 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-hex-steering-block-set-sc10rs-asc9880/p209659?r=0
bearings ASC31734 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-5x10x3mm-tc7.1-factory-team-bearings-4-asc31734/p537147?r=0
axles ASC71127 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-front-axle-2-asc71127/p742640?r=0
Set Screws M3 https://www.amainhobbies.com/robinson-racing-3mm-set-screws-5-rrp1002/p57160
Shims 3mm https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-3x5mm-shim-set-kyo96641/p3868

As of May 2021 most of these parts are still current

[JosephS]

That is the 20° block for an SC10 and RC10B4 and T4. They are harder to find than the 30° but are what you really want with an older car.

The axles are retained by a short M3 screw.

What offset wheels would be needed for the rc10/10t?
Do the original hinge pins work?

So to take a vintage rc10/rc10T to 12mm hex front axles the

So as a list it would be :


30 blocks be Part# ASC7922 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-30-deg.-caster-block-l-r-asc7922/p9112?r=0
OR
20 degree part # ASC9592 https://www.ashfordhobby.com/p-4332-team-associated-caster-block-20-2-b4t4.aspx
steering ASC9880 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-hex-steering-block-set-sc10rs-asc9880/p209659?r=0
bearings ASC31734 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-5x10x3mm-tc7.1-factory-team-bearings-4-asc31734/p537147?r=0
axles ASC71127 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-front-axle-2-asc71127/p742640?r=0
Set Screws M3 https://www.amainhobbies.com/robinson-racing-3mm-set-screws-5-rrp1002/p57160
Shims 3mm https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-3x5mm-shim-set-kyo96641/p3868

As of May 2021 most of these parts are still current

[juicedcoupe]

No set screws, regular shot screw. My axles came from an ebay takeoff and came with screws.

Hinge pins: https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-hinge-pin-set-asc91394/p275184?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzuqpuIys8AIVRQPnCh1rrAI7EAQYASABEgKh8_D_BwE

You will also need a small screw to retain the pin.



If using the 30° blocks on an older model, it will have a lot of caster. Some control arms might hit the steering linkages. I originally used the 30° blocks and clearanced the arms. The 20° blocks fit fine.

The steering blocks are molded to capture a small pattern 4-40 nut to retain the ball stud.

[juicedcoupe]

I believe that most people use B4.1 front wheels on buggies.

My car isn't normal. It is a short arm car with wide offset RPM crawler wheels all around, with street tires.

On my 10T trucks that are converted to hex, I use the same wheels all around. Jconcepts makes some that are the correct offset but I use wide offset wheels for Traxxas vehicles, making the truck a little wider than normal.

[JosephS]

I believe that most people use B4.1 front wheels on buggies.

My car isn't normal. It is a short arm car with wide offset RPM crawler wheels all around, with street tires.

On my 10T trucks that are converted to hex, I use the same wheels all around. Jconcepts makes some that are the correct offset but I use wide offset wheels for Traxxas vehicles, making the truck a little wider than normal.

I've seen those jConcepts wheels for the buggy, but I haven't seen them for the truck. Offsets are one of the places I am having the most trouble finding decent information on.
How do I determine what the offset is on an hex adapted vehicle?
What is the adapted offset for the rc10 and the rc10t?

For the Rc10T I see the wheels wheels with a t4/t5 hex off set and they also have a set of wheels that have adjustable offset. The cost for rc wheels and tires is high enough to give me pause.

[juicedcoupe]

These are the wheels that I see used most often:

https://www.jconcepts.net/shop/mono-t41-t5m-12mm-hex-wheel

I thought the price was reasonable, considering that it is all four.

[juicedcoupe]

Are you trying to fit in a rule based class? Or just bashing around?

If you are just bashing around, I can give you some lower priced options for wheels and hex conversion parts for trucks.

Readily available Traxxas parts are easily adapted to the 10T trucks. The track width isn't exact but it within ~5mm.

Wheels made for Traxxas electric truck front or nitro rears have a slight wider offset than 10T wheels. Its hardly noticeable but wouldn't quite fit within the rules for a stadium truck class.

[JosephS]

These are the wheels that I see used most often:

https://www.jconcepts.net/shop/mono-t41-t5m-12mm-hex-wheel

I thought the price was reasonable, considering that it is all four.

Thanks for pointing out that that's for 4 wheels. It's usually tires and multiple sets.

[JosephS]

Are you trying to fit in a rule based class? Or just bashing around?

If you are just bashing around, I can give you some lower priced options for wheels and hex conversion parts for trucks.

Readily available Traxxas parts are easily adapted to the 10T trucks. The track width isn't exact but it within ~5mm.

Wheels made for Traxxas electric truck front or nitro rears have a slight wider offset than 10T wheels. Its hardly noticeable but wouldn't quite fit within the rules for a stadium truck class.

I could use both. I can get to a track about twice a year, but I'm hoping to make a track night family night.

[juicedcoupe]

All of these wheels are the wide offset Traxxas wheels, as used on the front of electric trucks and the rear of nitro trucks. They will produce a track width slightly wider than normal wheels.

Traxxas:

1972- White, lightweight dished wheel. Has a 90's truck look.

3675- White, multi- hole. Original Stampede and Rustler wheels. Heavy duty.
3673- Chrome, multi-hole. Original Stampede and Rustler wheels. Heavy duty.

RPM:

Revolvers. Multi-hole, similar to above. Better made and nicer finish than Traxxas wheels. Extremely heavy duty.

82062- Black.
82063- Chrome.


I have some of all three types and wouldn't hesitate to use any of them again.

[juicedcoupe]

For a budget hex conversion for trucks (haven't tried on cars), you can use the cheap and readily available parts for 2WD Traxxas trucks (Slash, Rustler, and Stampede). The front track width is slightly narrower than the Associated parts.

All that is required is to open up the caster blocks with a 1/8" drill bit for the hinge pins and to clearance the back of the blocks. White arm trucks require more clearance (but you really shouldn't be doing a hack like this on a white arm truck). You can do it with a Dremel or even a file but a belt sander makes quick work of it.

Depending on your setup, a spacer at a ball stud may be needed.


Even with the material removed, the blocks are still thicker than Associated parts. I have run this setup pretty hard and haven't broken it. Even if it did break, it cost ~$3 to fix.

[JosephS]

For a budget hex conversion for trucks (haven't tried on cars), you can use the cheap and readily available parts for 2WD Traxxas trucks (Slash, Rustler, and Stampede). The front track width is slightly narrower than the Associated parts.

All that is required is to open up the caster blocks with a 1/8" drill bit for the hinge pins and to clearance the back of the blocks. White arm trucks require more clearance (but you really shouldn't be doing a hack like this on a white arm truck). You can do it with a Dremel or even a file but a belt sander makes quick work of it.

Depending on your setup, a spacer at a ball stud may be needed.


Even with the material removed, the blocks are still thicker than Associated parts. I have run this setup pretty hard and haven't broken it. Even if it did break, it cost ~$3 to fix.

Thanks for this. This is the kind of swap that I used to depend on my local hobby shop for.