Getting the big Fairlane back on the road.... Going the whole 9 inches

[juicedcoupe]

I'm just praying my flares dont leak

If they do, you can buy little copper flare gaskets. When compressed, they fill any voids in the flare or seat.

[RC10th]

Thanks for that, I may pick up a couple just in case....

If I buy them chances are they won't leak, but if I don’t buy 'em you can bet they will leak


I made sure the lines entered the fittings straight and made sure the flares weren't crooked, so we're halfway there... lol

[Incredible_Serious]

Thanks for that, I may pick up a couple just in case....

If I buy them chances are they won't leak, but if I don’t buy 'em you can bet they will leak

This is golden wisdom right here, kiddies..... forget your Tamiyas for a couple of minutes, and soak this faecal matter up....

I made sure the lines entered the fittings straight and made sure the flares weren't crooked, so we're halfway there... lol

Blood eye hippies and your flares.... country life is agreeing with someone

[juicedcoupe]

I'd love to have one of the Eastwood flaring tools that does 45° and 37°, but I haven't been able to bring myself to pay ~$350 for one. A friend has the 45° version and it is awesome.

[romulus22]

Is that a couch in your garage? No wonder you’re taking your time on this car

[Incredible_Serious]

Is that a couch in your garage? No wonder you’re taking your time on this car

I think you'll find, that is actually the rear axle in the lounge room.... I guess the missus must have been away that day

[RC10th]

It is a couch in my garage. Even though I technically want a couch in my garage I would like to get rid of it in favor for chairs. I've got a microwave, radio, fridge, kettle and a wood burning stove...... so basically I just need a TV.

Money and time seem to be the limiting factor on how quickly this is progressing, once I finally figure out how to get more of both I'll be set.

[RC10th]

I really went down the rabbit hole with this one. I basically just wanted a nicer power steering bracket and pulley and ended up with all this crap

Performance enhancing it is not except for the fact that it will slow the water pump and power steering down slightly. I did the calculations on the stock pulleys and discovered that the stock 44yo fan was reaching speeds in excess of 7100+rpm..... dangerous

Just need to order the fan now and new belts...


Pretty.......

[RC10th]

For comparison sake here's the billet crank pulley compared to a stock size pulley.

[RC10th]

Finally got all the bits to finish up the pulleys/pump. I bought a 2.5" fan spacer to pull the fan back slightly as it was just a bit too deep in the shroud. It was originally anodized black so I stripped it and polished it for some reason. I kind of like the fact that the hub stays bolted to the pump and you can remove the fan seperately.

I also bought one of these fans to try. It is almost half the weight of the stock fan although I have my doubts that it will move enough air. We will see, luckily they are pretty cheap.

Also, since the car doesn't have an accurate temp gauge (no aftermarket or auxiliary gauges) I stumbled across this little "Engine Thermometer" which will conveniently thread straight into the water neck. I was originally going to wire up an auxiliary temp gauge under the hood but this is so much cleaner and easier. It's also great to compare where the needle sits on the stock Hot/Cold cabin gauge. Personally I liked the black faced gauge better but this one will match the fuel pressure gauge, so I bought the white one.

white.jpg (29.52 KiB) Viewed 1465 times

white.jpg (29.52 KiB) Viewed 1465 times

[RC10th]

Bit of a detour along the way......

I started to put the billet stuff on and while removing the old stuff to make way for the new, and pulling the radiator out for more room I thought hmmmmm..... that's basically half way to pulling the engine. So I figured it was now or never in replacing the pan and fixing up a few other issues like replacing the too tight converter with a smaller higher stall converter. I originally wanted the Milodon pan but upon measuring it up it just hangs down too far for my liking, you'd see half of it hanging down below the chassis. As it is you can see the blue from the stock pan from the front. I went with the 7 quart Moroso pan as it will fit great and looks good.

I also bought a Canton Racing windage tray and ARP stainless pan bolt set. With a bit of luck the pan baffling and windage tray would hopefully be worth something in the range of 5 - 20 horsepowers.

I also thought I'd bump up the power a bit more. I want to go with a hydraulic roller but I'll have to sit down with an engine builder to see what I can do with my budget. Retrofit rollers and link bar lifters are quite expensive for Cleveland's. Also alloy heads are crazy money, so since my heads are lightly ported already I think having them ported more is the cheaper option. Cast iron 2V Cleveland heads when properly ported should support about 500hp from what I've read, but a lot of that depends on the percentage of flow of the cylinder head.

Unfortunately this won't be a quick process

[juicedcoupe]

http://fordstrokers.com/valve-train/lifters/morel-5323

Jim and Nicole are good people. He also has contacts at several cam companies.

[RC10th]

http://fordstrokers.com/valve-train/lifters/morel-5323

Jim and Nicole are good people. He also has contacts at several cam companies.

I've read good things about the Morels, but everything is so expensive here, double that for a set here. The dog bones are a lot cheaper but I'm not really a fan of that set up. Luckily I'm most of the way there, so hopefully just some more cam and head work will get me there.

My case will basically come down to 'see what you can get out of it for X amount of money'

[juicedcoupe]

Yeah, the reduced base cam is a bad deal.

Nothing particularly wrong with dogbone lifters, but using them in an early block sucks.

[RC10th]

Well this has been WAY too long but I finally pulled the stock rear and put a deposit down for a Strange chromoly driveshaft. Getting it out was pretty straight forward except the mufflers were in the way of removing the front spring eye bolts which was annoying.

The joys of rebuilding springs, hardly anybody rebuilds springs anymore so I had to order new slipper pads and spring clamps. I was surprised to find the springs were only 4 leafs but that explains why the rear is so soft and way under sprung for a 3600lb car. The car has 9" of wheel travel and pretty much uses all of it, just the way I like it

Getting the eye bushings out was a challenge as I tried all the cheap easy ways first to no avail. I ended up setting up a table next to the press and taking the time to set everything up properly, needless to say the 30t press made light work of it. I should have just done it that way to begin with I was happy I got the springs apart without breaking the center pin, time to clean and paint them while I wait for parts.