Painting a body

[JimClark]

I am going to be airbrushing the body for my restore of a RC10 B stamp Kit 6011. I have an airbrush and know how to use it but need to know what brand of paint is good for the lexan bodies? Kind of would like to get a list together of what I will need and which brands to get.

[XLR8]

Hi Jim, I've used Pactra, Duratrax and Tamiya paint for polycarbonate and they all seem to work well.
Be sure to get paint that's specifically formulated for polycarbonate.
I've heard that it's possible to use an adhesion promoter under other types of paint but I've never tried it.
Hope this is helpful.

[JimClark]

Do they need specific thinners and should you use a clear to finish it off?

[XLR8]

Do they need specific thinners and should you use a clear to finish it off?

I've only used thinners that are supplied by the specific paint's manufacturer. I've heard that poly paint can be thinned with lacquer thinner but I've never tried it. I should run an experiment sometime and see if it actually works. I use lacquer thinner to clean my brushes.
You won't need a separate clear coat since the body is painted on the inside - the lexan itself is essentially the clear coat.

[Jimtencubed]

I have had good luck with pactra paints, but have never done any complex airbrush work.

[Coelacanth]

How come no mention of Parma's FasKolor paints, or Createx, AutoAir? All are water-based and cleanup is so much easier. Plus, your lungs and health will appreciate it. You can paint in your home with a simple paint box and not have acrylic lacquer fumes permeate your basement for a week. I've totally switched over from lacquer paints. Water-based paints are the way to go and the airbrush cleanup ease is worth it alone.

[XLR8]

Well, because we were waiting for YOU to mention it.
I've never tried water based paint but I might just do that now.
I like the benefit of not stinking-up the shop with all the chemical odors that come with solvent paints.
Thank you for finally mentioning it - what took you so long??

[radioactivity]

I totally agree with Coelacanth.
Parma's FasKolor paints are my go-to paints.
OK, I know, they don't have the tenacious grip and hard finish on the lexan that Tamiya PS paints and other polycarbonate paints offer.
But I trade that for all the above reasons.

Chuck

[Coelacanth]

OK, I know, they don't have the tenacious grip and hard finish on the lexan that Tamiya PS paints and other polycarbonate paints offer.

I think they bond quite well to Lexan when you back the final paint job with FasKoat, Krylon or Rustoleum Clear or some similar backing coat. I've been following the paint tips over on RCTech.net and the word is water-based paints can be just about as durable as good ol'-school Pactra, once you've given it time to cure and back it afterward.