Newbie with Race Motor and AE RC10

[radioactivity]

JT

Look for bearings at https://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=680&kitname=RC10+Classic.
$1 per bearing. You will be stunned by the price some are asking for vintage AE bearings.
BITD they were quite expensive but no longer.

Chuck

[XLR8]

JT

Look for bearings at https://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=680&kitname=RC10+Classic.
$1 per bearing. You will be stunned by the price some are asking for vintage AE bearings.
BITD they were quite expensive but no longer.

Chuck

I couldn't agree more, Chuck. I won't waste money on vintage AE bearings.
For playing around in the yard, bearings are all the same so may as well go for the cheapest option - Avid bearings are just fine.

[XLR8]

I'd think it would be a good idea to install a small voltmeter. Or maybe some kind of low voltage cutoff? Or is there some kind of protection components I could install? I know how to solder and have adequate equipment.
I checked, and it's two separate heat sinks, I was able to remove the small one entirely and reinstall it.
Would it be a problem to switch to Li-ion or another kind of battery chemistry?(As long as it's in the voltage range of the motor of course)

I no longer run my vintage ESCs but I do know that low-voltage alarms are available for those who do.
Here's one from Amain hobbies:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/dys-digital-lipo-voltage-checker-w-warning-alarm-budepb-0002/p360824
There may be better/cheaper ones out there.
As for Li-ion, I've only ran NiCad, NiMh, and LiPo batteries so I can't say if other battery types would be safe to try.

[JTSpeedDemon]

Ok, then I'll probably go with NiMH.
Is there a way to retrofit it with a tempfet or a similar device? Some kind of high temp cutoff?

[jwscab]

not that esc. But you could really find esc's out there relatively cheaply that will have a lipo cutoff built in as well as thermal and overload circuitry.

such as this one:
https://www.amazon.com/HobbyWing-QUICRUN-1060-Brushed-ESC/dp/B00LXCM3Q8/ref=asc_df_B00LXCM3Q8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309875687217&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13407414182468964595&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007247&hvtargid=pla-568634278734&psc=1

[KidAgain]

Bearings purchase from Avid also I’ll suggest buying a super cheap brushless esc/motor combo from eBay for you to get your feet wet with the new stuff. It’s so cheap it won’t matter if you burn them up

[JTSpeedDemon]

Link to said combo? Would probably be a good idea for everyday thrashing, but I see so many on Ebay that look like junk.

[JTSpeedDemon]

Finally went and got a 7.2V NiMH 5000 Mah battery, a trickle charger for it, and a Tamiya male to female adapter(all on Ebay for less than $30!!!). I can splice and solder the needed male half of the adapter to the existing battery wires, charge up the battery, plug it in and rip! I'll link a video of me getting it running once everything comes. Can't wait to see this thing run again!

[radioactivity]

[JTSpeedDemon]

I think I found one of the Ebay special brushless motor kits y'all were talking about. HOLY MAKER OF RC!!!!! 9T motor, up to 12V, 50,000 max RPM!!!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-1-10-RC-Car-3650-3900KV-Brushless-Waterproof-Motor-with-60A-ESC-Combo-Set/264384136903?hash=item3d8e85c6c7:m:mHGSvQhQa986ebVfkH1nHAw
I think that would absolutely TRASH my diff.
Maybe someday I'll get a project car to put one of these in......

[KidAgain]

I think I found one of the Ebay special brushless motor kits y'all were talking about. HOLY MAKER OF RC!!!!! 9T motor, up to 12V, 50,000 max RPM!!!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-1-10-RC-Car-3650-3900KV-Brushless-Waterproof-Motor-with-60A-ESC-Combo-Set/264384136903?hash=item3d8e85c6c7:m:mHGSvQhQa986ebVfkH1nHAw
I think that would absolutely TRASH my diff.
Maybe someday I'll get a project car to put one of these in......

youll be fine, see you could get them for under 40$ package deal.....................................

[JTSpeedDemon]

Really? The stock rear end could handle that? And by what safety margin?
If it's not dangerous or risky component wise, it's be fun to make the electronics swappable for quick changes.
Plus I've got a friend with a gas(might be nitro) RC, and it might be fun to race it with that brushless setup at max 12V!

[XLR8]

I think one of the weak links in the RC10's original 6-gear tranny are the white nylon idler gears. I've broken two idlers running with 10.5 brushless on 2s lipo (7.4v). I'm running the later black idlers now and they seem to be holding up okay - plus I've adjusted my driving style a bit.
The lesson for me is that these cars are not indestructible, they were designed in an era when running modified meant 7-cell NiCad (8.4v) and maybe a 12t brushed motor. 3s lipos and brushless motors can make tremendous power - much more power than these old cars can handle.

[KidAgain]

Sorry about that I’m running stealth trans and those seem to hold up fine so far with a 4.5 brushless, 6 gear not sure.

[JTSpeedDemon]

Lol, yeah, aftermarket diff probably helps.
I got a question for you guys: What are the stock tire sizes for this AE RC10?
The rear wheel is 1 3/4" in dia. and the rear tire is ~3"dia. and 1.5" wide.
The front wheel is about 2" in dia. and the tire is 3" in dia. and 1/2" wide.
Any tire and wheel suggestions? On road would be nice, but I'd also like to see some other off road tires.
I saw the JC Racing link, but I'm not sure if those will fit the same size tires.