Oops, sorry about that Chuck.
Hey, could you please post a photo that shows the difference; "laydown" vs. "layback" - for us ole-timers who are unfamiliar with modern RC buggys? By chance do either of those configurations include two idlers?
I've also noticed oval drive cup bearing holes - I'm guessing this allows for optional mounting locations hi or low?
Doug
No need for sorries! You just put another idea in my head. New home for the layback. More on that later.
Though I'm sure not an authority, here is my take on the differences.
The layback offers a slightly shorter overall transmission length. The layback uses a smaller idler and it looks to be slightly lower. Both are 3 gear configs.
The layback shifts the center of gravity back by moving the motor rearwards. Overall it moves the motor and possibly battery back about 8mm.
More rear traction for looser dirt tracks they say.
The laydown is probably better for carpet and very high traction surfaces.
Preminarily total weight of my car is well below ROAR so adding weight at the rear is a definate possibility.
Both trans share the quick access diff. Both trans can use either gear or ball diffs
Both trans have adjustable diff heights like you mentioned, 3 different heights in all.
I chose the lowest position to most closely approximate a 3 or 6 gear outdrive height.
The outdrives are also deeper than the 3 or 6 gear. The ball diff offers almost 2mm additional per side, the gear diff offers slightly less.
The additional depth should be welcome if using the B4/B44 carriers and axels like I intend on doing.
I also made a new tower spacer, after fitting a couple bodies I needed to move the tower more forward.
Started mocking up rear suspension.
B4/B44 hub carrier and axels. The 9608 blue aluminum spacers are unobtanium so some plain aluminum washers that I had will work just fine.
Associated FT blue titanium turnbuckles. Bought several sets when on sale a while ago. Not exactly the correct length but they will be fine also.
Front suspension assembled.
World's car bellcranks and arms.
B4 inline steering blocks (9577).
B4 25 degree caster block (9580).
B4 turnbuckles.
B6 shock mounts.
And FactoryWorks carbon fiber tall front shock tower to match the AE B6 rear tower.
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Yep, I'm pretty much using what I have in spares or can/could get for a reasonable price. And at least I'm staying kind of AE loyal.
I've got some Andys arms but the rears are probably 7-8 out of 10.
Also AE rears are still available and I had new AE fronts.
Longer B4 arms in the rear would be problematic due to the width of the trans. I don't think I can move B4 mounts inboard, barely room for the 6360 mounts.
Maybe I'm wrong, I have only used the B4 hub carriers, blocks and spindles. Mainly to achieve wider stance and more adjustable geometries.
I tried something a little different.
I used Birchwood Casey aluminum black on the areas I cut/trimmed. It looks fairly good.
Particularly around the "squarish" trans opening.
It doesn't wipe off with alcohol but it sure isn't as durable as anodize.
Put the front suspension on and installed the trans.
I like the way the caster, camber and bump steer are not too out of control. How it performs on a track, could be another story.
For appearance those front bearing shields, let's just say they belong on yellow wheels.
Decided to get new rear arms. I had a used pair but they weren't new and they are available and not expensive.
New arms should be here today.
radioactivity wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 2:32 pm
I tried something a little different.
I used Birchwood Casey aluminum black on the areas I cut/trimmed. It looks fairly good.
Particularly around the "squarish" trans opening.
It doesn't wipe off with alcohol but it sure isn't as durable as anodize.
Chuck
Looks awesome Chuck.
I'm curious if you think "Birchwood Casey" would color epoxy or JB Weld. The car is looking great as it is but I'm just curious if one could fill those unused screw holes with epoxy then use the BC to color them black. Just a thought.
As far as I know the Birchwood Casey will only "blacken" aluminum.
It is a chemical etch of some sort.
I have been on a hunt for something to cover/hide the swisscheese effect.
I bought some small tapered rubber plugs used to seal holes and threads when anodizing and powder coating.
They work OK but still looking.
The transmission and rear suspension is mounted. Really pleased with how it turned out.
No limiters needed in the shocks. Bone engagement looks to be spot on.
There is no binding at either full extension or compression.
At a ride height of 22mm there is 2 degrees of camber. Camber changes are minimal +- 1 ½ degrees through the full travel.
At the tire there is about 2¼” of suspension travel.
If the suspension is fully compressed, there would be less than ¼” clearance to the ground.
The track width with these tires/wheels is slightly wide coming in at 254mm.
Looking good Chuck. WOW, what an awesome build -- well done sir!!
Was that perfect bone engagement a happy accident or did you predict it would go that way?
Anyway, I'm with Chewie, I wanna hear how she drives.
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