Edinger? Time for some love

[mtbkym01]

I’ve had this for a few years now, at the time I picked it up I had no idea what it may have been other than it was a Gold Pan. By researching on here I believe it to be an “Edinger”. Please correct me if I’m wrong
2E120F80-14B4-471D-86DB-388C20CEE316

7D9D5A84-3AFD-4E0E-9250-9AE911814A00

979CCDE1-6C8B-4F7D-86DB-00EF7BF15345

2C5B2A1E-65E3-4BB9-8E8E-C1AE5985A4A4

DFF4497B-E1AB-4B63-A6B5-DD6DAEF164C9

55DB22E3-9176-4EF8-A1E9-DA6F1F5143E2

98FDB8CB-04F4-4DB2-A584-8B42CABFD4CB

2C51DD35-F16D-49DF-9A2B-01FD63EBB172

FC5C0CAB-29EB-483F-8EED-4DF89FC994C2

B65A7CAD-40E3-44CD-A559-0E49CC16917C

The obvious primary issues to me (other than the discoloured plastic and general dirty ness) are the ball cups and tyres.

I’m looking for opinions on whether I should be rebuilding this as an original survivor, or do I look for other “hop up” style replacements.

I’ve got the greenish ball cups from the classic, but don’t want to use them on this one, I could get some rpm ones possibly (might even have some white ones already from my XXXT)

And for tyres, I’ve got a nip set of rear something that look like they fit which I’m sure would be period correct, but fronts I’d either keep these 7 ribs or use something else.

Would love thoughts and opinions
Cheers

[jwscab]

This is just my opinion so take it for what it's worth. What you have is a nice early edinger with all the right pieces. It's not from the earliest batch but pretty damn close edit** I take back this comment, this car really is an early batch****

I would restore and clean it up as good as possible but only update anything broken.

For example. In your pics, I can't see how many ball cups are there in the car, but a common mod was to replace the outer steering arm cup with a dubro captured ball. So I would shuffle the ball cups around to use the originals in all places except that location.

I would look into some tire preservation methods, silicone or whatever there is out there and keep the original tires as is. The goodyear tires are hard to find, I would keep it as a shelf queen.

Factory works I believe makes reproductions of the fiberglass battery straps, which look to be about the only thing missing.

If this isn't what you want and you want something to run, sell this one to a collector and pick up a $100-$150 rc10 that is a more common example. There are tons out there.

Fwiw again, jmho.

[GoMachV]

I would agree with jwscab, if it were mine I would clean what you have and do some era correct mods where you can’t get original parts. I don’t give valuations, but for the sake of trying to explain what you have versus a regular edinger or caddy- you could pick up a caddy or later endinger in the same condition as yours for $50-75. Yours would likely bring around 4 to 6x more than a caddy or later endinger in an auction. It’s the little things that make it special.

[Basher67]

I could not have said it better myself. Edingers should not be run or hopped up with modern parts. They have earned their place in history and on the shelf. If you're looking for a runner, you'll most likely be money ahead to sell or trade it for a more common and plentiful goldpan.

[mtbkym01]

Thanks for the comments so far, I really appreciate it. To do the Dubro rod ends, I’d still be 1 original ball cup short

I can definitely make the tyres look as good as possible. And peroxide the plastics. I’ve got a couple FRP battery straps, what were they like back in the day?

Then it comes to do I do a box art body (gonna be using the pro tech from my classic), or “another colour” box art if that makes sense?

[jwscab]

if the straps are FRP, ie fiberglass and same as the shock towers, you have all of the necessary pieces. after the early cars, the battery straps looked exactly the same, but in white nylon.

myself, I'm not a huge fan of the orange boxart, so boxart with a different color would be cool. definitely a protech 1 for the build though.

as for the dubro's, if you are 1 short with 2 dubro's, use 4 dubro's for the steering links. then you will have one extra ball cup.

I would only do a minimum amount of peroxide, just to lighten the darker parts, but the parts were really kind of bone or off white originally anyway.

[mtbkym01]

Are the dubros the 4-40's that I should be looking for?

Also, what distinguishes a Protech 1?

Sorry for the what may be obvious questions

[jwscab]

Yes the 4-40 ones.

Protech 1 is the original rc10 buggy body. There was a protech 2 that was a later version. Never saw a protech 3. Protech IV is for a yokomo yz10.

[mtbkym01]

I notice a lot of original RC10’s seem to have the windows cut out, is this correct? If so what do you guys recommend for window nets?

[XLR8]

The actual box-art car has windows cutout. A few years ago, I restored my Dad's old Edinger in box-art style and for the window net I used the drywall joint mesh "tape" and painted it black. It very much looks the part.

[Y'ernat Al]

Don't hop it up, just clean it up. Dont stress over the ball cup thing. If you make a thread out of the cleanup, and have bst access, I know help will come out of the woodwork. There are some unique aspects to that car many of us appreciate as is.

[RC10resto]

I agree with the guys above.
The only part I would leave out / off is what’s left of the non original front bumper.
Looks like a very early car to me and those no hex ball cups are very hard to find.

[mtbkym01]

The actual box-art car has windows cutout. A few years ago, I restored my Dad's old Edinger in box-art style and for the window net I used the drywall joint mesh "tape" and painted it black. It very much looks the part.

So you cut the windows out? Also, with regards to a driver figure, the early cars had a nylon/styrene style driver like from an early Tamiya Rough Rider or similar?

[mtbkym01]

BTW, I’m really appreciating all the comments and “help”.

I really want to do this car justice

[XLR8]

The actual box-art car has windows cutout. A few years ago, I restored my Dad's old Edinger in box-art style and for the window net I used the drywall joint mesh "tape" and painted it black. It very much looks the part.

So you cut the windows out? Also, with regards to a driver figure, the early cars had a nylon/styrene style driver like from an early Tamiya Rough Rider or similar?

Yes, the windows have been removed and window net is attached using black thread similar to the car on the box. Not sure about the driver figure that came with earlier Edingers. I recall that both of our first RC10's came with vacuum formed lexan driver figures however our cars were not as early as yours.