my boxy lady

[BTracer]

Here's one that I've been working on for a while now. It's got the lighter gold chassis, Edinger motor, spring perches, original gear cover, tires, etc....My weakness is still getting the trans just right, but that'll come. Still have a lot of work to do, but it's getting there.

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box1.JPG (116.1 KiB) Viewed 2545 times

box2.JPG (115.42 KiB) Viewed 2546 times

box2.JPG (115.42 KiB) Viewed 2546 times

box3.JPG (109.81 KiB) Viewed 2540 times

box3.JPG (109.81 KiB) Viewed 2540 times

box4.JPG (111.59 KiB) Viewed 2538 times

box4.JPG (111.59 KiB) Viewed 2538 times

[whodat]

very nice

[RC Chick]

Nice build

[Wyattriot77]

What exactly do you need to change/get right with the trans?? Also, do you have a picture of the early motor?? I am interested in building a box car, and want to get all the details exact. Are the tires Goodyears??

[BTracer]

What exactly do you need to change/get right with the trans?? Also, do you have a picture of the early motor?? I am interested in building a box car, and want to get all the details exact. Are the tires Goodyears??

I'm trying to find the time to build it Jim Halsey style.

P3210021.jpg (107.75 KiB) Viewed 2222 times

P3210021.jpg (107.75 KiB) Viewed 2222 times

The motor looks very similar to the Cadillac address motors but it has the edinger address. I'm not sure, but the endbell looks different on the old motors as well.

The tires are used are not the goodyears, but they did come with Edinger kits. Same style.

One thing that has helped me pick out the older cars on ebay is the look of the chassis. You can pretty easily distinguish them because they are the light gold color instead of the darker gold. From there I look for the spring cups, gear cover, fiberglass straps etc... If I'm looking for Edinger parts, I typically stay away from the known resellers because they most likely know what's what and have already taken the rare parts off the car.

The spring cups and battery straps are the hardest to find. I've bought two full cars so far to get just 4 cups, 1 full car to get the gear cover, and a separate auction for the wing buttons. Asa might have more buttons, PM him, he's a good seller.

[templeofspeed]

That's the motor you want.

On a side note, the 6500 "Off-Road Stock" motor without the gold brush hood heatsinks did also exist with a Cadillac address for a very short while. It also existed before the RC10 as the 3502 1/12th scale "Yokomo 8-Minute" stock motor with the dark blue "05" label as used on the old closed endbell Igarashi motors. It's possible the "05" labeled version shipped with the earliest kits, however the 6500 motor is listed in the early 1984 1/12th catalog with a half-dozen other 6xxx series part numbers (along side the 3502 motor), so it may, in fact, pre date the production RC10 by a few months.

Your build is nice, but also puzzling. The "cupped" spring cups should only be on the rear for an early production car. Not sure where you're going with the raw alloy shocks, etc. Not quite "box-art" not quite production...

To each their own, but if you're looking to recreate a specific car I'm not sure which car you are doing...

Please take no offense, certainly none is intended. I'm trying to figure out the early production bits myself, but some of the replica builds popping up are adding to the confusion.

Associated hasn't been any help in regards to these items.

[BTracer]

Absolutely no offense taken, Temple. In fact, I prefer a little constructive criticism. Because we're all sort of winging it when it comes to these replicas, and for most of us, rc10 enthusiasts are far and few between, different viewpoints on this forum help me to define what I'm trying build.

That being said, I'll try to clarify what's going on with the car. I am trying to replicate the box art car, not just an early production one. I do realize that many of the parts are not perfect, but it is a work in progress. Many of the parts are very difficult to obtain or custom machine for an "average joe" like myself. The "raw" shock look seems to be pretty close to the one on the box. The difference is in the shock caps and collars. On the box photos, I noticed that the shock caps have a more square shape around the mounting hole versus the round shape of the production shocks. I've been looking for aluminum collars, but none of them are good matches, so I stuck with the plastics ones for now. Once I find some suitable collars, it should match up pretty well. All four shocks have the cup style perches on the box. Aside from experimenting with some G10 fiberglass for the trans mount and battery straps and rounding out the nose plate, I don't think I can do much more. The original Novak ESC is definitely out of the question, so I'm not even thinking about it. I'll probably just substitute with a Novak 4 and deanodize the heat sinks. The front/rear tires are the correct pattern. Even though the rears don't have the goodyear logo on them, I can verify that the logo-less tires did come with some Edinger kits early on. Not box art, but close enough.
Still looking for the Dubro steering linkage ends and collets to lock the rear shock in place. Let me know if there is anything else I missed.

[BTracer]

On a side note, the 6500 "Off-Road Stock" motor without the gold brush hood heatsinks did also exist with a Cadillac address for a very short while. It also existed before the RC10 as the 3502 1/12th scale "Yokomo 8-Minute" stock motor with the dark blue "05" label as used on the old closed endbell Igarashi motors. It's possible the "05" labeled version shipped with the earliest kits, however the 6500 motor is listed in the early 1984 1/12th catalog with a half-dozen other 6xxx series part numbers (along side the 3502 motor), so it may, in fact, pre date the production RC10 by a few months.

Chronologically, are you saying that the 3502 "05" would be a more appropriate one to put in than the Edinger address motor for this build? I am choosing parts based on the five pictures on the box. None of them have a photo of the motor.

[templeofspeed]

Chronologically, are you saying that the 3502 "05" would be a more appropriate one to put in than the Edinger address motor for this build? I am choosing parts based on the five pictures on the box. None of them have a photo of the motor.

The 3502 has the Edinger address...

05motor2.jpg (107.78 KiB) Viewed 2078 times

05motor2.jpg (107.78 KiB) Viewed 2078 times

Considering the box art car has seven cells and an ESC I'd think an early Yokomo based Reedy modified would be the most appropriate...

I'm not saying whether the 3502 or 6500 are right for your build, I was just throwing the info out there for reference.

In my own worthless opinion you have a very nice beginning to an early production car which is soooo close to being finished. I guess I'm kind of over the box art thing since they are all copies (even Associated's is...) of the long lost original, whereas you have the makings of a real car that could have been purchased by a consumer during the earliest days of the RC10.

Carry on.

Do you have the original two part manual?

[BTracer]

The 3502 has the Edinger address...

Another thing I didn't know Is the Reedy mod motor the one with the green label? If I'm not mistaken, there were variants even within the green label motors.

Your expertise in the little details (as well as rest of the board, in general) mean a lot so it feels good when people question how or why I built the car a certain way. As I wrote previously, different viewpoints help me narrow down what I really want to build. It's nice to know people on this board have knowledge they are willing to share

I do have the original two part, but it's with my NIB kit. Don't really want to mess with them too much.

[scr8p]

here's the dubro collars for the shocks...........

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD832&P=SM

you'll need 2 of the 1/16" collars for the steering centerlink...............

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD831&P=SM

[templeofspeed]

Another thing I didn't know Is the Reedy mod motor the one with the green label? If I'm not mistaken, there were variants even within the green label motors.

I think the Reedy motor you want pre-dates the green label...and yes, there were variants, but nothing like a 12t double...more likely a 20t-23t. The old catalog just says rewound, epoxied and balanced.

Grab a download of the original manual here:

http://www.theshreves.com/rc_stuff/manuals/associated/earliest_rc10_manual.pdf

[asashaw]

nicely done so far. may I add one note. you need a small body mount (12i or 12e I think) that goes over the right servo saver instead of the plastic nut... are the nuts plastic on the box art car? I would have to go look, I assume you are correct though. In the future you can always ask me about spare parts before buying whole cars for your project, I have gear covers, etc. Hope i can help again. Tires not for sale

[BTracer]

Thanks for the extra info guys. Scr8p, do you know how the collets and the center steering linkage work together. The only thing I can think of is to make a u-shaped link and lock them in with the collets from the top of the servo saver. I can make out the collets on the box, but that's about it.

[templeofspeed]

You may want to have a look here, this set the bar pretty high for a box art replica two years ago:

http://www.gassaninedesigns.com/id55.htm