
RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
- NomadRacer
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
Sweet idea on joining the tubes. I'll see if I can make it happen 

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- NomadRacer
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
I tried out the rear tube guard...
I have the width, but the radius is to large
I'll try a different method to get it right. I really like this idea of the rear tube cage, thanks again XLR8!
In the mean time, I got some diamond coated (three grits sizes) 5mm chainsaw files. These will make things go considerable faster. I has using 3 different sizes of files plus some 320 grit sandpaper wrapped around a rod to get close to the right size, what a pain in the butt that was!
I have the width, but the radius is to large

In the mean time, I got some diamond coated (three grits sizes) 5mm chainsaw files. These will make things go considerable faster. I has using 3 different sizes of files plus some 320 grit sandpaper wrapped around a rod to get close to the right size, what a pain in the butt that was!
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- XLR8
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
Hmmm, round chainsaw files to notch the tube ends? I would never have thought of that. Brilliant!
Hey, how are you sharpening your lathe tools? I have a bench grinder but I think the wheel is too coarse, it spins too fast (it creates too much heat) and I have no way to accurately control the grind angle.
What's the best way to keep the tools sharp??
Hey, how are you sharpening your lathe tools? I have a bench grinder but I think the wheel is too coarse, it spins too fast (it creates too much heat) and I have no way to accurately control the grind angle.
What's the best way to keep the tools sharp??
Doug
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
I've got one of these for sharpening basic lathe tools: https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-Knife-Sharpener-Onion/dp/B00EJ9CQKA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1535134463&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=work+sharp&psc=1 with the grinding attachment: https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WSSAKO81112-Grinder-Attachment/dp/B00J9AADN6/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1535134656&sr=1-5&keywords=work+sharp+grinding+attachment It's a dual purpose tool, grind cutters and sharpen knives.... what's not to like about thatXLR8 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 24, 2018 1:45 pm Hmmm, round chainsaw files to notch the tube ends? I would never have thought of that. Brilliant!
Hey, how are you sharpening your lathe tools? I have a bench grinder but I think the wheel is too coarse, it spins too fast (it creates too much heat) and I have no way to accurately control the grind angle.
What's the best way to keep the tools sharp??

For grooving cutters, I just buy a new one!
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- XLR8
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
Cool, thanks.
I'd never thought about using what looks like a belt grinder to sharpen knives. Just shows you what I know.
I reckon these are very special belts -- nothing like the abrasive belts I use with woodworking.
Anyway, thanks for providing the links.
I'd never thought about using what looks like a belt grinder to sharpen knives. Just shows you what I know.

I reckon these are very special belts -- nothing like the abrasive belts I use with woodworking.
Anyway, thanks for providing the links.
Doug
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
A little out of practice but it turned out straight and not to awful bad. Lots of file work but I'll get it looking good.

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- XLR8
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- NomadRacer
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
Yes, looks kinda messy but it's cleaning up nicely. I had worked a little bit with a Dremel before the pic. Back at it a couple more hours so far...
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- mk-Zero
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- XLR8
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
Another benefit of working with aluminum (besides the obvious fact that it's light) is that it's soft and easy to sculpt.
In fact, it's soft enough that I can even cut it with my carbide tipped woodworking tools.
Aluminum, Kydex, Styrene, G10; with these materials you could build a car from scratch.
... and I'll add one other material. I needed to build a centrally mounted transfer case for an SCX10/Jeep that I finished last year (the motor and primary drive were relocated to the front), so I used blocks of cast PVC to make the case halves. This is the same material as architectural trim. It worked great. Cast PVC has similar properties to sintered nylon (although not as strong) and it cuts like butter. I've also used it to make a pair of cylinder heads for a scale 350 Chevy, the texture is like cast iron.
In fact, it's soft enough that I can even cut it with my carbide tipped woodworking tools.
Aluminum, Kydex, Styrene, G10; with these materials you could build a car from scratch.
... and I'll add one other material. I needed to build a centrally mounted transfer case for an SCX10/Jeep that I finished last year (the motor and primary drive were relocated to the front), so I used blocks of cast PVC to make the case halves. This is the same material as architectural trim. It worked great. Cast PVC has similar properties to sintered nylon (although not as strong) and it cuts like butter. I've also used it to make a pair of cylinder heads for a scale 350 Chevy, the texture is like cast iron.
Doug
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
Yes, it does work very easy. I'm having no problems getting the joints smoothed out to my liking. Getting close on the front two cross members. I''ll hold off on the back two, going to add some more tubes there and want to have the added security of more "meat".
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- XLR8
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
OH, I almost forgot. There's another benefit to aluminum; it can be polished to look like chrome. 

Doug
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
I've been wondering how it would do in my tumbler with some polishing media 

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- NomadRacer
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
I'm bumming a friends equipment.

I only got to spend a short time at the welding shop today (man was getting his gear ready for the work week). I got one side cross member done and spent some time cleaning joints up with files. I have the other side cross member ready to go.

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