
RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
- NomadRacer
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- NomadRacer
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
The joints are going to be Tig welded. I have a few things still to do before getting into that.

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- NomadRacer
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
I got the battery (shorty lipo) holdown sorted out today. All I'm lacking is to mark and drill the 4 holes in the chassis plate to mount it. I used an Exotek brand #1827 system from AMain with a couple of mods and some 10mm tall hex stand offs. It looks pretty slick. You will be able to adjust it forward and back.
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- NomadRacer
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
Battery holdown system installed on chassis plate. I was very precise with the drilling and everything worked out perfect, no movement of the battery at all and smooth movement forward/back.
Do I need nerf bars? YES!
Do I need nerf bars? YES!

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- XLR8
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
Hey Nomad.... Been giving this some thought. How about something like this? Attached with button head screws from the inside Those close bends at the back might be a real challenge.NomadRacer wrote: ↑Tue Aug 14, 2018 10:10 am Bending my life away![]()
I've come up with an idea for the rear, transmission guard tubes but not sure if it's going to stay, may re-do it, if so, need more tubing.![]()
C2Tuberrrcage.jpg
C2Tuberrrcage2.jpg
Anyway, it's just a thought.

Doug
- NomadRacer
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
That's a good idea. I'll see if I can make those bends. It would look a lot better than what I have done!
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- XLR8
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
I have them spaced 1" apart but they could go wider if necessary.
I'm a bit uncertain on those two short cross-members. By chance, do you have some smaller tubing - maybe 1/8" perhaps? They seemed to be a little too thick - or maybe they should be moved or just eliminated completely. I dunno. Anyway, whatever you do, it will look awesome.
I'm a bit uncertain on those two short cross-members. By chance, do you have some smaller tubing - maybe 1/8" perhaps? They seemed to be a little too thick - or maybe they should be moved or just eliminated completely. I dunno. Anyway, whatever you do, it will look awesome.
Doug
- XLR8
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- NomadRacer
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
I do have 1/8". It seems to me, kinda strange looking with smaller cross members. Maybe it's me though, being on the mobile, away from home for the weekend.
I think 1" is close to the measurement between the two tubes, maybe plus 1/4" or so.
I think 1" is close to the measurement between the two tubes, maybe plus 1/4" or so.
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- XLR8
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- XLR8
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
Excellent idea! Of course, the trick then would be to remove the weld so it looks like one piece. I'd bet Nomad could handle that with no problem.

Doug
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Re: RC10 Factory Works C2 "Tuber" Build
That's how they sometimes handle it on 1:1 scale.

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