RC10LSO that I couldn't pass up

[GeneralZod]

Another side project resto recently aquired for a whopping 30 bucks on flea bay! Came with all the goodies and a basher body. Like I really needed another pan car, but for some reason this one called out to me saying "help me please"! I wasn't expecting much, but after it arrived, I was actually a bit surprised. Looking past all the grime, the chassis is in very good shape with hardly any scratches. Must have been due to the extreme ride height it was set for. Some things are not quite built right. The rear end is the 235mm wide version and the damper disks/post are not built correctly but all parts are there. The magnum jr looks almost brand new. The lightspeed motor is a 16T x3 and looks to have low miles after peeking at the comm and brushes. Speed control is targeted for crawlers but a nice bonus as well. The tires are very well used and seen better days but rims are in good shape. Time for complete teardown and cleanup!

[NomadRacer]

That's a very nice score from eBay! Looking forward to seeing what you do with it.

[GeneralZod]

Today I began the full disassembly. Most of the screws had some surface rust so I sprayed liquid wrench and wd40 on each one before backing them out. One snag I came across is when I tried to pull off the left axle hub. It won't budge. I sprayed some more liquid wrench on the end to let it soak in. I will leave it sit for several days. Anyone with ideas or experience on removing the aluminum hub from the decades old axle? From the look of things, moisture may have settled in long ago and welded it to the axle. Blue Magic metal polish worked great on the graphite applied by hand only. I dont recommend using any power buffers as it will take off the sealer very quick! Let me tell you how I know this.

My car exploded!

Soaking hub with the liquid wrench

Chassis looks way better now

Topside looks decent too

[NomadRacer]

I don't have any magic spell to fix the problem. I do know what you have, corrosion. Aluminum on a steel shaft... over time the aluminum can corrode and it then, sticks like glue to the steel shaft. I'd advise keep soaking it. Leave it submerged for a while (days) and keep trying! If you get it off, re-assemble with a bit of anti seize compound on the shaft.

Chassis plate looks very nice.

[GeneralZod]

Well, I let it soak for several days. Still stuck. So....I figured what the heck and reached for the BFH in the toolbox. No more love taps, I beat the holy hell out of it and what do you know, It became unstuck. Now I have several tidbits extra that are now "unlocked" from the axle. The left side washer is rusted along with several bearings in the blue ring cage. I could replace the balls in the cage but I am not sure of the size. The axle is in good shape and has the spur gear ball bearing so I will keep as a spare for my wide RC10L. Both hubs threads were chased with a 4x40 tap using fingers only. This car came from Maine and noticed salt residue on both hubs. Wondering if someone tried running this on the beach? For this resto, I will refit the rear pod with the actual 10LSS parts and RC12 axle.

[klavy69]

Wondering if someone tried running this on the beach?

I picked up a losi that was run on the beach and put away for a couple years...its locked up pretty tight and will sit that way til I can afford to buy a 5 gallon bucket of pb blaster and leave it in it for a year or so

keep the updates coming. Pan car doesn't get nearly enuf attention around here

Todd

[marty slater]

Amen Todd

[Phin]

Dynamic strut front suspension = RC10LSO.

Check the axle with a magnet...there's a good chance it's titanium. You might need to stick with it when you use the narrow rear end parts since your rear wheels look skinny. The extra length on the axle will give you room if you have to add spacers for the right track width.

[GeneralZod]

Phin, you are correct. After looking closely at The manual for the LSO, I think that is what I have. Even the shock has the correct black cap. You may be correct on the axle being titanium. I compared it to my bolink steel axle and it feels not as heavy. I will check with a magnet to verify. It also took the hammering quite well and hardly marred the end of the shaft. Took some sandpaper on the end with the shaft in drill and it cleaned up nicely. Ordered up some rear pod parts so while waiting for those to arrive, I took apart the motor for cleaning and inspection. I really dig the old brushed LightSpeed motors. The windings are so neat and motor is very well balanced. Its a screamer when I hooked it up to my power supply.

[GeneralZod]

Worked a bit tonight on the fossilized aluminum hubs. Had to use emery board to level out the bubbling corrosion then finished with blue magic polish. Much better now

Before

After

[NomadRacer]

Outstanding work. How black did your hands get?

[GeneralZod]

Funny you mentioned that. Every one of my fingers was covered in black and had to wash them several times during the process. I was tempted to post a photo. That stuff gets everywhere!

[GeneralZod]

Next, its time to tackle this mess. Found lots of astro turf type of threads on all axles and it even wound up inside the ball bearings! After taking the shields off the bearings, I know why they didnt spin.

[NomadRacer]

After a good scrub on the plastic parts, try that peroxide method to make them white again. Lots of guys here on the forum do it.

[GeneralZod]

Trying it now. Lots of sun here and 95 degees so time for the bath. I used 50/50 mix water and peroxide. Only been a few hours and they seem whiter already. Excellent trick, thanks!