Composite Craft RC10T #2
- Lavigna
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Composite Craft RC10T #2
I still can't believe it! I was fortunate enough to acquire a second, new Composite Craft RC10T chassis.
My other CC RC10T build is one of the jewels of my RC collection. I built it with a murdered out (black) theme, and I love it. For this second chassis, I figure I should go in the opposite direction. White Knight style.
For the last few years I have been hunting down RC10T parts which I had intended on using on a (modified) Cliff Lett themed build, but that will need to be put on hold now, lol. I am not sure which direction to go on a few areas, like stock vs RPM transmission, shock towers, motor plate, and shocks. Decisions, decisions...
Here are some pictures of the chassis, and some of the parts that may or may not be going into it. Suggestions are always welcome. Thanks for reading.
My other CC RC10T build is one of the jewels of my RC collection. I built it with a murdered out (black) theme, and I love it. For this second chassis, I figure I should go in the opposite direction. White Knight style.
For the last few years I have been hunting down RC10T parts which I had intended on using on a (modified) Cliff Lett themed build, but that will need to be put on hold now, lol. I am not sure which direction to go on a few areas, like stock vs RPM transmission, shock towers, motor plate, and shocks. Decisions, decisions...
Here are some pictures of the chassis, and some of the parts that may or may not be going into it. Suggestions are always welcome. Thanks for reading.
My Photo Gallery --->https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=38934
- Lavigna
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Re: Composite Craft RC10T #2
Even though the RPM parts are new, some of them have yellowed. Does anyone have any suggestions for whitening RPM parts? I know peroxide is a big NO NO for them. If anyone has any proven techniques, please let me know. Thanks!
My Photo Gallery --->https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=38934
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Re: Composite Craft RC10T #2
Posted by @LTO_Dave
Here's the big secret revealed: Don't use any caustic degreasers. Boil the parts in a 75% distilled water and 25% bleach solution for 10 minutes. Immediately shock in ice water with salt (salt lowers the melting point and gets the water below 32-degrees). Repeat 1-2 times. I did a batch of white RPM parts and the results were amazing. I used an electric single-burner range outside to boil the parts since the fumes were nasty. And don't use peroxide!
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
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Re: Composite Craft RC10T #2
GoMachV wrote: ↑Fri May 04, 2018 11:48 pm Posted by @LTO_Dave
Here's the big secret revealed: Don't use any caustic degreasers. Boil the parts in a 75% distilled water and 25% bleach solution for 10 minutes. Immediately shock in ice water with salt (salt lowers the melting point and gets the water below 32-degrees). Repeat 1-2 times. I did a batch of white RPM parts and the results were amazing. I used an electric single-burner range outside to boil the parts since the fumes were nasty. And don't use peroxide!
So what happens when you use peroxide on these parts? Do they melt or disform or something?
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Re: Composite Craft RC10T #2
They turn green. Almost the color of rere ball cups
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
Factory Works website
Factory Works website
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Re: Composite Craft RC10T #2
The parts collecting continues. Thanks to SofaKing for most of these latest choice items.
I need to begin my parts whitening campaign, and build the courage to open the vintage packages of Unicorn white pieces. Stock pieces will take a quick Peroxide bath, followed by some thorough cleaning in boiling water.
RPM White pieces - Although new, most of my RPM white parts could use some whitening. I have a loose front bumper (it's much more yellowed than my other NIP bumper) that I used as my tester. I followed the directions of LTO_Dave. I did NOT use distilled water, as I didn't have any at the time. My mixture of bleach was also probably low, as I was using my inside stove. My results were minimal (pictured below). I do think the piece whitened up, but it is still far from where I want it to be. I also let it soak in Simple Green, to see if that would help. I think the Simple Green actually turned it slightly green, shocking lol. This weekend, I am going to try again with distilled water, a true 25% bleach mix, and my outside barbecue.
Although this truck will have nearly all the Unicorn RPM pieces, I am going to use stock arms. I have always preferred the look/shape of them over the RPM units, especially in the white color.
I need to begin my parts whitening campaign, and build the courage to open the vintage packages of Unicorn white pieces. Stock pieces will take a quick Peroxide bath, followed by some thorough cleaning in boiling water.
RPM White pieces - Although new, most of my RPM white parts could use some whitening. I have a loose front bumper (it's much more yellowed than my other NIP bumper) that I used as my tester. I followed the directions of LTO_Dave. I did NOT use distilled water, as I didn't have any at the time. My mixture of bleach was also probably low, as I was using my inside stove. My results were minimal (pictured below). I do think the piece whitened up, but it is still far from where I want it to be. I also let it soak in Simple Green, to see if that would help. I think the Simple Green actually turned it slightly green, shocking lol. This weekend, I am going to try again with distilled water, a true 25% bleach mix, and my outside barbecue.
Although this truck will have nearly all the Unicorn RPM pieces, I am going to use stock arms. I have always preferred the look/shape of them over the RPM units, especially in the white color.
My Photo Gallery --->https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=38934
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Re: Composite Craft RC10T #2
I just did a batch of old RPM stuff. Put the parts in peroxide with AE parts and just let them turn their wonderful color. Took them right from the peroxide to a pot of boiling water. Wonderful color left right away and this is what i ended up with.
That being said, use at your own risk.
That being said, use at your own risk.

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Re: Composite Craft RC10T #2
^ Now I am really confused, lol. Thanks for your input.
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Re: Composite Craft RC10T #2
Since you have that old RPM bumper as a test part why dont you use that for a peroxide test and see.... Just my thoughts its your parts though ... good luck i got my fingers crossed for u
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Re: Composite Craft RC10T #2
kinda what Jason is saying is use the peroxide on them. They will turn green like the hue of the re-re ball cup color. Leave them in the peroxide until you are ready to boil them. Take them from the peroxide to the boiling water. They turn white again but a little more whiter than before the peroxide treatment.
would be a good scr8p verification all in one thread if you did thisfst72vette wrote: ↑Sat May 19, 2018 1:17 pm Since you have that old RPM bumper as a test part why dont you use that for a peroxide test and see.... Just my thoughts its your parts though ... good luck i got my fingers crossed for u

there are also some threads where the boiler people also take the rpm parts outta the boiling water and drop them in ice water to shock them. I haven't done any of this yet and my ambition level won't let me but I can still try living my life through you guys

Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!
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Re: Composite Craft RC10T #2
yeah, Jason's new procedure is bleeding edge- it will take a while to update our previous take on never using peroxide around RPM parts
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
Factory Works website
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Re: Composite Craft RC10T #2
I wish I had taken pics of the parts I did before hand to compare. They're definitely not as bright as other RPM parts I've had. But they look pretty good.
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Re: Composite Craft RC10T #2
Awhile back I accidentally peroxided a white RPM part. It turned green. I had heard that boiling it would help remove the green. It did, but not completely. This is why I am resistant to try this method.
I bought what is needed to try the distilled H2O & bleach method tomorrow, with correct ratios. I am hoping it helps. In the least, I know it will not harm the pieces.
Some of the RPM parts are already a nice clear white, and do not need any whitening, like the bulkhead, steering rack, and front bumper (left). The other RPM pieces are not drastically darker, but I am hoping I can brighten them to match the others.
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Re: Composite Craft RC10T #2
Its weird how these new parts yellowed over the years. I wonder if the plastic packaging or sunlight causes this .... makes you wonder ..... hmmmm
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