Dug out my old RC-10
- GoMachV
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Re: Dug out my old RC-10
They got it backwards tho! The original 6 gear was a bear to get right, where the rere is plain awesome sauce. This is my completely stock untouched rere 6 gear with bushings...
What they fouled up was the rere stealth. They took a trans that was great and tried to make it better, but ended up with poor tolerances and changes made that weren’t necessary. Again, here is my rere, showing the stock set, then swapping in the original case, and finally the original case and idler. Stunning difference once the idler changed (case is required to use the old idler though)
Anyway, just my $.02. Yes the originals requires test fitting. It’s just sad they got one right and the other....not
What they fouled up was the rere stealth. They took a trans that was great and tried to make it better, but ended up with poor tolerances and changes made that weren’t necessary. Again, here is my rere, showing the stock set, then swapping in the original case, and finally the original case and idler. Stunning difference once the idler changed (case is required to use the old idler though)
Anyway, just my $.02. Yes the originals requires test fitting. It’s just sad they got one right and the other....not
- XLR8
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Re: Dug out my old RC-10
Not to beat a dead horse (I love horses so I wouldn't do that) but I think perhaps the new cases may be most of the problem (assuming that the rere gears are molded and cut within the tolerances established by the prevailing 48dp design standards). I could be wrong (and I often am) but I reckoned TT slightly decreased the center distances between the three shafts in order to make the transmission more robust under brushless power. The case material will yield under a load and it will yield even more under a higher load. Decrease the center distances and the result is a stronger, tighter, louder and less efficient transmission. Are the gears from the rere six-gear 32dp like the original? If so then they probably didn't see any need to tighten that one since 32dp gears will easily handle a higher load. Again, I could be completely wrong about all of this but it's interesting to think about.
Doug
Re: Dug out my old RC-10
So, I’m trying to understand. Am I going to be ok with building my “ReRe” (which where I come from is a shorter version of retarded and may fit this part descriptively) and running brushlesss or do I need to buy other parts. Or should I send this thing back to ASC?XLR8 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 24, 2017 4:36 pm Not to beat a dead horse (I love horses so I wouldn't do that) but I think perhaps the new cases may be most of the problem (assuming that the rere gears are molded and cut within the tolerances established by the prevailing 48dp design standards). I could be wrong (and I often am) but I reckoned TT slightly decreased the center distances between the three shafts in order to make the transmission more robust under brushless power. The case material will yield under a load and it will yield even more under a higher load. Decrease the center distances and the result is a stronger, tighter, louder and less efficient transmission. Are the gears from the rere six-gear 32dp like the original? If so then they probably didn't see any need to tighten that one since 32dp gears will easily handle a higher load. Again, I could be completely wrong about all of this but it's interesting to think about.
- RCveteran
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Re: Dug out my old RC-10
It can handle brushless just fine. It may even go together and spin fine, you just have to see. I've had some of them fine, others not. If not you will need to spend a tiny bit of money to get a new case and old style idler gear.
- GoMachV
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Re: Dug out my old RC-10
They have, just need to email them. They wanted proof of purchase even tho my kit came direct from them 

- XLR8
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Re: Dug out my old RC-10
I'm pretty sure that the modern transmissions will handle any motor you could bolt to them.
I've had two product complaints within the last couple years and both times Associated has addressed them quickly and completely. For my part, customer service has been very good.
I've had two product complaints within the last couple years and both times Associated has addressed them quickly and completely. For my part, customer service has been very good.
Doug
Re: Dug out my old RC-10
In my opinion it is worth replacing the case and idler.
Judging by the stories on here my re-re stealth was one of the better gearboxes. However, when I replaced the case and idler it was considerably smoother.
Judging by the stories on here my re-re stealth was one of the better gearboxes. However, when I replaced the case and idler it was considerably smoother.
Re: Dug out my old RC-10
So Powersports emailed me saying “Unfortunately the majority of the items that you ordered are currently back ordered until late November. I will keep your order open and ship as soon as it arrives unless I hear differently from you.” I told them to refund my $89 and they did!. So I guess they are a drop shipper but they are not thieves. I’m sure anything you may need for an RC 10 will be out of stock...
Re: Dug out my old RC-10
So I crashed and broke an A-arm. Good thing they still make them, and in black now so I don't have to die it! Ordered two sets.


- XLR8
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Re: Dug out my old RC-10
Ouch! I tend to break pivot blocks. Don't recall breaking an arm before. I've read somewhere that we should boil our vintage nylon parts before using them - makes them more pliable and less prone to breakage. Yours appear to be dyed so they have been boiled - perhaps not recently??
Doug
- XLR8
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Re: Dug out my old RC-10
I've got a set of those arms in a box of parts that appear to be molded black but they have tons of glass fibers - not smooth like the others. I wonder if they are original Worlds arms of if the came from something else. I bet there is at least one member here who could shed some light. wink-wink-nudge-nudge
Edit: I looked at those arms again today and I think perhaps they might be the carbon "Worlds" arms - they appear a bit more gray than the other black arms and the surface texture is rough. Not sure if they are rare but I will leave them in the box for now and just used the more common arms. If they are carbon reinforced, they might be pretty much bullet proof.
Edit: I looked at those arms again today and I think perhaps they might be the carbon "Worlds" arms - they appear a bit more gray than the other black arms and the surface texture is rough. Not sure if they are rare but I will leave them in the box for now and just used the more common arms. If they are carbon reinforced, they might be pretty much bullet proof.
Doug
- XLR8
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