RC10GT & modern starter boxes?

[lebowski770]

Hello, after selling my rc10gt to my Stepfather, over 12-years ago, I decided to buy it back from him. The pull start is no good and I would like to use a modern starter box, but can not confirm that any will work with this older truck. It is using the .15 engine and came as a ready-set back in 2002 with the red, white and blue paint/sticker theme on the body. My stepfather only ran it two times and I am very anxious to see if I can get it started again. If anyone can recommend a starter box that is not impossible to find and works with the rc10gt it would be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance

[alien3t]

Sounds like the flat BLue chassis from 2000 (when they started with the RTR's.) I know i have a first gen gt tub car. and am using a LRP or Reedy 10th scale starter box. (i forgot which brand as its been in a box for almost a year). But i did have to adjust the screws tabs just right to fit it the way i want. Most 10th scale or 1/8th scale boxes are universal. There are plastic tabs in the slots you lay the track on the box on the wheel/to flywheel. then move and tighten the tabs down in spots to hold the trucks in that postion.

[lebowski770]

Hey, thanks for the reply. I just ordered an LRP - 37101 Competition Starter box and yes the truck has the anodized blue chassis.I will report back if it works or if the slot on the chassis needs to be extended/widened. If the engine does not turn or when the engine does eventually wear out is it pretty much impossible to find engines that will work for this truck? I would like to stay in the .12-.15 range.

[RC10th]

Not impossible to find engines, just gets a little harder to sift through to find suitable engines. Rear exaust engines require a different manifold.

If the engine is locked up rebuild it yourself or send it to me I love rebuilding old engines.

[lebowski770]

Hey thanks!! I will keep this in mind. Any recommendations on gas to use? I want to keep this thing running for as a long as possible. Last I knew I use to use blue thunder 20%

[klavy69]

Odonnell 20% was the fuel to run. Still is IMHO. Was always true to mix. Always consistant and always good from one gallon to another. Longevity on motors was the key for a low buck enthusiast like me so I paid a little more for fuel at the time. I was watching others using other fuels constantly tinkering with needles but not me and the odonnell users on average. My $.02

Todd

[klavy69]

just read back and seen the other part about finding motors for these. Just gotta keep the search up. They are out there. As a rule I never bought a used motor I was going to have to be serious about. Mostly you are buying other peoples headaches and burnt up pistons/sleeves. I've gotten some used ones that were great but hard to tell what histories they had so was hard to trust something like that.

Good luck with it and post pix if you can

[RC10th]

I used to run O'Donnell 20% too, was bummed when Duratrax bought the brand but the fuel was still good. O'Donnell didn't add any dye to the fuel so it was organic The high end onroad guys started to run into fuel problems when engines were on the verge of 50k rpm.

The other popular fuel was Duratrax Blue Thunder, it turned everything blue from your tank to the engine internals. It was good fuel though.

Byron fuel was another popular fuel but I felt it never cleared out as quick as O'Donnell, never quite had as crisp of throttle response.

White lightning fuel only had something like 6% oil, it was fast but on the ragged edge of burning stuff up.

Sig fuel was probably ok in a buggy blend but I didn't know anyone who ran it. Was good plane fuel though.....

[alien3t]

usually finding os cz on the bay. and nip ones usually adecent price. (or around $100 new. the old cv red head 12 seam to e not selling as much. seen a few others. of there are the cheapie no names for like 40-50 bucks. I did run a red head ofna at one time in a rs4 nitro. was like 50 bucks back in the day. alwaus ran for me. wasnt the most powerful. but was consistant

[RC10th]

.12 OS CV-R is one of the best engines made in my opinion.

[lebowski770]

Hey thanks for all the feedback guys!! Yes with Traxxas top fuel every new batch I buy I have to adjust the needle and if I don't put after run oil in oh boy does the Kyosho dbx 2.0 gxr 18 engine heat up!! I will try to upload pictures tonight or tomorrow, they are low quality though(phone)
I will also be uploading my Kyosho turbo scorpion re-release build pics so look out for that in the Kyosho section.

[lebowski770]

.12 OS CV-R is one of the best engines made in my opinion.

Wow!! That looks perfect just what I am looking for .12

[RC10th]

The thing that made the CV-R a standout over the CZ/CV was the chrome plated sleeve. They were extremely reliable, easy to tune and made good power for the time. The .15 CV-R would make a GT wheelie easily all day long while the .12CV-R would occasionally, for racing you could only run a .12 anyways.

Believe it or not those AE .15's were really good engines.

[RS Chris]

I run a .12 CV-R in a black tub GT and love it. It can sit for a month and fire right up and run consistent. Also have an AE .15 in a GT2 and it really impressed me once I got it dialed in. Quick for a sport motor and wheelies like an electric truck. Both running on 10% plane fuel (all I have at moment) but will be changing to 20% car fuel soon.

[lebowski770]

Fired her up for the first time since 2003/2004 using the LRP blue competition starter box with just a 2s lipo. Had to use my os #8 glow plug I had laying around new in package. She is almost ready to make bacon on the beach!!