Wheel base RC10CE vs Worlds Car

[BACK_AT_IT]

I'm rebuilding and modernizing a RC10CE (last produced gold pan) which I bought in pretty rough shape on eBay. I've put modern 2.2 wheels on it modern electronics (hobbywing, skyfly) and its running well. I am looking to replace the old rc10 dog bones with worlds car CVA axles. I'm just wondering if the rear arms on the worlds car are longer or the CVA assembly. Because as is my old rc10 wheel base seems a bit narrow. I know the modern wheel rims are recessed quite a bit more than the old wheels. Any insight would be appreciated.

Thx

[lmw94002]

It's possible you have recessed/offset wheels. Really depends on the make/model of the wheel because there's so many out there from past to present.

I'm sure someone will pipe up if I'm wrong... but I believe your options are:

• Convert to the Worlds ReRe CVAs. You would need the appropriate rear hub carriers and bearings to accommodate them too.

• Use the classic 1/4" CVA kit. I believe that is more of a "direct" replacement, but not sure of spacing due to 6-gear vs. Stealth. See: https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6369-ASC6369-rc10_cva_set_1_4_in_axle/

You definitely would want to have some shims handy to help spacing/slop.

[scr8p]

"Modern wheels" is kind of a broad statement. You could run modern 2.2 JC Racing wheels on your stock 1/4" axles. Or, you can get the cva's from the Worlds car, properly sized bearing for your stock hubs, and run the 2.2 wheels from the Worlds car.

But if you mean like B4 and B5 wheels, you will need a combination longer arms, longer cva's, maybe wider hubs, wheels hexes, etc. It really depends on how much money you want to part with.

[lmw94002]

I read that as he already had the wheels and was looking to upgrade from the bones.

B4 2.2" wheels and still super easy to come by that'd fit the ReRe rear axle. IMO, the only reason to do hex conversion is if you have one set of tires you want to flip back and forth between your RC10 and your B5/B6.

[BACK_AT_IT]

Thanks for the responses but I think I need to explain what I'm trying to get at a bit more clearly. I've converted to modern wheels (world car 2.2s) and rear hubs but still am running the old vintage rc10 dogbones. I want to convert to the bone coupler axel combo (on worlds car) but want to know if the rear arms are longer than the vintage RC10. Because if they are longer I need to buy them too. Running the car now with modern electronics is much faster and the car flips over quite easily. So I'm suspecting the rear arms might be longer. Or are there other things I can do to stop it from flipping. I suspect upgrading the shocks would help as well.
Thx

[lmw94002]

when you say flipping, you mean traction rolling when you turn? I'm pretty sure the arms are the same length. And if you're traction rolling, depending on what surface you're on, tires you have, etc... For starters, you could try stiffening the front shocks up.

[BACK_AT_IT]

Thanks for the response must be a traction and stiffer suspension issue. Mainly happens on pavement. I'm thinking of going to modern shocks as well as I'm still running the original shocks. I put a new washer set in the shocks and silicon instead of oil but they still leak a bit and some are stiffer some softer at the same setting and with the same springs. Does anyone have suggestions for replacement shocks?

Thx

[lmw94002]

Many people still run the original shocks. Rebuild kits, and original parts can still easily be sourced. To go more "modern", you could direct bolt-on AE's World's ReRe shocks which are an updated design, but still the right size to bolt right on. You could even try other sizes to help lower the car if you're just running on flat asphalt.

You might possibly be able to change shock mounting positions too to help.

[Lonestar]

to mitigate traction roll on any car

- lower your electronics to the max- shorten the wires
- lower your ride height, limit droop (spacers IN shocks), stiffer swaybars
- stiffen the front/rear suspension if it's happening at (resp.) corner entry/exit
- soften (yes, soften...) your suspension (oil and or springs) if it's TR'ing "during the turn".
- more negative camber
- less grippy tires
- widening the track can help too but it takes some work as you are finding out

and cornering smoother helps, too. Remember also this is a 30y.o. design and it does drive like it

[BACK_AT_IT]

So in an attempt to modernize my Rc10 I converted the backend to worlds car hubs and CVAs. The problem is I need to have extreme negative camber in order to prevent the dog bones from falling out of the transmission (3 gear). So I suspect that the rear arms of the worlds car are shorter which would allow the dog bones to sit deeper into the transmission, but I'm not sure. Anyone have any experience with this? Any tips would be appreciated. See pics. Thx!

[mk-Zero]

No, all the arms are the same length. AE screwed up and used too short of CVA bones in the Worlds rere. To remedy it you can severely limit droop, or move the spacers and shims, including the blue one, to the onboard side to move the stub axle inward.

[BACK_AT_IT]

Thanks for the response I did put 2 washers on the onboard side but still need a ton of camber to prevent the dog bones from popping out of the transmission.
Another possible option at my local hobby shop. It's the b-4 mip cvd set. (AE part 9599). I measured it and it's a good 5mm longer. So I think if I shim and washer the wheel pin side I think it it might work. Not sure if anyone has tried this?

[jwscab]

It will be too long. There is a center bone from b44.2 that's the right length and will fix the problem.

[jwscab]

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=41813&p=471426&hilit=B44.2+bone#p471426

[mk-Zero]

If you have that blue anodized cone-shaped washer that comes with the Worlds CVA conversion kit put that inboard and maybe like 2 of the 3 thin washers, then put the 3rd outboard. Annoying that you have to do this, but works like a charm.

I need to make those extended length outdrives to solve this issue.