Help me make my RC10T great again

[EMC]

That's a tidy setup. I really like the tires. The esc/motor plugs...are they power poles? I've only seen them in red and black.

Thanks. Yes the connectors are all APP. You can get multiple color options on powerwerx.com. In the spirit of my old litespeed connectors from the 90's I decided to retain that style. I like them a lot.

A few lessons learned. I taped my ESC too close to the tubb wall and couldn't see the LED light, so I had to adjust that. If done over again I would have studied other's layouts a little more and moved the reciever and esc back to create more room for a transponder bracket. But overall I'm satisfied.

Also under the old brushed setup I had my differential way too loose and never noticed. The other day's test drive revealed the "barking" as I was playing with the slipper adjustment. I rebuilt the diff with a rebuild kit and made sure to snug it up sufficiently this time so it will hold up and I will keep the slipper on the looser side so as to not put undue stress on the diff.

[joey_zrl]

I didn't know Anderson PowerPole had different colors. Thanks for letting me know. I've never used them, but I have seen a lot of people that are really happy with them. I've been looking for some old school type connectors for my T2 which will be using a vintage esc, brushed motor, and servo. I wish I could use an old Novak Rx, but I don't think my 4PL will bind with one, lol!

How do you like the Hobbywing Justock esc? I have one in my Worlds car, and I love the compact size and the smoothness of it.

Thanks for the pics btw.

[EMC]

I didn't know Anderson PowerPole had different colors. Thanks for letting me know. I've never used them, but I have seen a lot of people that are really happy with them. I've been looking for some old school type connectors for my T2 which will be using a vintage esc, brushed motor, and servo. I wish I could use an old Novak Rx, but I don't think my 4PL will bind with one, lol!

How do you like the Hobbywing Justock esc? I have one in my Worlds car, and I love the compact size and the smoothness of it.

Thanks for the pics btw.

Regarding the Hobbywing, admittedly I have no experience with any other modern esc's to compare it, but it is fantastic compared to an old Novak 410M5 .

It was either the HW or an LRP spin super. The decision was made for me by the fact that the LRP was backordered. I liked the clean no fan and minimal wiring design of the LRP, but the HW had good reviews too and it was slightly less expensive and most importantly was available at the time. I also picked up a HW programming device which made life easy for setup.

One thing I had to work through was very weak brakes initially. By default the HW is set to 75% and in order to fix that I changed it to 100%, some other setting regarding the drag brake being included and then I adjusted the brakes down on my transmitter and it is much better now. Being able to make so many adjustments is initally daunting but quite nice once figured out.

[joey_zrl]

I didn't know Anderson PowerPole had different colors. Thanks for letting me know. I've never used them, but I have seen a lot of people that are really happy with them. I've been looking for some old school type connectors for my T2 which will be using a vintage esc, brushed motor, and servo. I wish I could use an old Novak Rx, but I don't think my 4PL will bind with one, lol!

How do you like the Hobbywing Justock esc? I have one in my Worlds car, and I love the compact size and the smoothness of it.

Thanks for the pics btw.

Regarding the Hobbywing, admittedly I have no experience with any other modern esc's to compare it, but it is fantastic compared to an old Novak 410M5 .

It was either the HW or an LRP spin super. The decision was made for me by the fact that the LRP was backordered. I liked the clean no fan and minimal wiring design of the LRP, but the HW had good reviews too and it was slightly less expensive and most importantly was available at the time. I also picked up a HW programming device which made life easy for setup.

One thing I had to work through was very weak brakes initially. By default the HW is set to 75% and in order to fix that I changed it to 100%, some other setting regarding the drag brake being included and then I adjusted the brakes down on my transmitter and it is much better now. Being able to make so many adjustments is initally daunting but quite nice once figured out.

Good choice on getting the programmer. I had to program mine manually. It wasn't that hard actually. Just a bit of a hassle resorting to the manual on which beep sequence corresponds to each particular sub-setting. I do remember the brakes being weak when I tried mine out for the first time. I set my drag brake really low to keep the motor temp lower, but it is noticeably working.

I just finished installing my Trinity Speed Gems 19x1 motor in my T2 tonight. I'm eager to see how it compares to a 17.5 motor. I just need to find the right gearing. I have it at 17/87 right now, but I think I will need to gear it a little higher.

[jcwrks]

I picked up a #7011 10T (C) a few weeks ago, and I planned on running my vintage electronics. However I have a feeling that I will want to eventually switch to modern brushless, and EMC's selections look like a solid starting point. I had already purchased some ae 3/16" cvd's, ae one piece 2.2's, and some trencher T's. Now all I need is my Andy's painted body to get here.

[EMC]

I picked up a #7011 10T (C) a few weeks ago, and I planned on running my vintage electronics. However I have a feeling that I will want to eventually switch to modern brushless, and EMC's selections look like a solid starting point. I had already purchased some ae 3/16" cvd's, ae one piece 2.2's, and some trencher T's. Now all I need is my Andy's painted body to get here.

It's a rabbit hole of a project but has been entertaining and educational. The trenchers work well for general bashing/street use and give you some nice extra clearance. If you plan on some indoor carpet track or hard clay running, some softer compound tires with better closed cell inserts may be the ticket as I discovered recently. I picked up some jconcepts pin downs/swaggers and extra wheels/closed cell foam inserts to try.

[jcwrks]

There are no tracks near me, so I'll be bashing in the yard/street/park/dirt fields for now. Did you drill a small 1/8" or less hole in the wheels or the tires for venting?

What lipo charger did you opt for? I bought an HTRC HT100 touch but have not used it yet since I don't have any lipo batts. I'm still trying to decide if I want to use a shorty 5000 lipo or the venom 4000 stick pack (like you're using) since they are roughly the same cost. What kind of runtimes are you seeing before the lv cutoff?

[EMC]

There are no tracks near me, so I'll be bashing in the yard/street/park/dirt fields for now. Did you drill a small 1/8" or less hole in the wheels or the tires for venting?

What lipo charger did you opt for? I bought an HTRC HT100 touch but have not used it yet since I don't have any lipo batts. I'm still trying to decide if I want to use a shorty 5000 lipo or the venom 4000 stick pack (like you're using) since they are roughly the same cost. What kind of runtimes are you seeing before the lv cutoff?

Yes on the hole drilling for vent. Some people say you should vent the tire with a punch rather than the wheel, I opted for wheel holes and it has been fine. The venom pack has been fine, but isn't as powerful as a shorty with higher C rating. I also have a vant 4600mah 90c and it gives more punch for sure. I would recommend the shorty option if the C rating is better. I haven't run a full pack through either to the cutoff point. My runs usually only last 10 min at most. After 10 min either battery has plenty left. I am using a cheap 4amp balance charger I picked up on Amazon, nothing special.