Factory Works/A&L C2 build...

[Timmahhh]

A few things...

A 25.5 should be fine if you have one. I dont think its any more powerful than a 27t brushed, and you can use the 29t pinion. I'm not familiar with the strength of the lethal weapon, but if a 27t brushed is OK, I'd feel comfortable with a 25.5 brushless.

I'm pretty sure the reedy SC550 is a rebranded hobbywing quickrun (like a few manufacturers budget brushed ESC's). The reedy name would look cooler than hobbywing, but it'll probably cost you more.

Jeff,
The gearing chart seems proportional to turns with stock being at the bottom, but from my experience, with 24-36 degrees of timing, they would be geared closer to a "mod" 19t or so, which would have a lot less timing in them. I think the gearing is a touch conservative though, so it should still be in a safe range

[NomadRacer]

Timmahhh - Thank you for your visit to my thread.

I have a Novak 25.5 Ballistic Boss motor and a HobbyWing XERON XR10 Justock ESC with LCD program box. It would be very cool to use that because... it's a Novak!

Reedy ESC's do command a high price. I have a Blackbox 410R in my other buggy with a Reedy 17.5 brushless. That's sort of why I have another 17.5 in my stash (as a spare).

[NomadRacer]

I have a question... maybe Jeff can answer it for me?

Shimming the rear axle in the trailing arms. How much play should I have? Is .010" ok?

[GoMachV]

Should be fine. The wheels will take up a bit of that play too. Throw one on and tighten it, make sure it doesn't bind

[NomadRacer]

Outstanding, Jeff.

I'm using the AE .010" shims, two on the inside, three on the outside. Have to press the roll pins in to be sure. I don't enjoy that!

*edit*

Two shims on the inside, two on the outside is perfect!

[NomadRacer]

The Futaba Rx arrived today, countersink bit is still floating around in the postal system. It was so close to me yesterday, 10 miles away and turned around and headed all the way to Richmond, Va. These guys need to get there head out of there b*#tt and give me my stuff

I went ahead and drilled the holes to mount the battery cups. Came out ok, very slightly off but once I do the countersink it will be fine. Attached to the chassis by button heads for now.

[NomadRacer]

I finally got my countersink bit late yesterday. It was sent to the wrong post office again! I made a few phone calls and managed to have a postal clerk look in the bag, pull it and have a carrier bring it to me. Man.what a fiasco that turned out to be. USPS

The C2 has been attacked by a BUG!

I had this re-release Tamiya Monster Beetle body that I got off of eBay for 32 bucks (late night bidding) so off to the Dremel I went. My inspiration was an RC10 in this month's contest. I have a plan for the side body mounts... the front will be a little tricky but it can be done without to much trouble.

[lmw94002]

Maybe a little kydex mount off the front shock tower? Similar to the old RC10 Monster truck conversions... I got a set of mounts like that up on Ebay.

I do like that look though.

[NomadRacer]

Maybe a little kydex mount off the front shock tower? Similar to the old RC10 Monster truck conversions... I got a set of mounts like that up on Ebay.

I do like that look though.

Yes. kydex is just what I was thinking too. I have some 1/8" thick sheet, plenty to mess up a few times till I get it right.

[NomadRacer]

I got the 87T spur today. Bolted everything up with the Novak motor, 20T pinion and I have perfect mesh. Granted, the motor is at full swing forward, touching the transmission case. I'm not really digging that so the 90/93/96T spurs that are inbound should be the ticket. I should also be able to run a smaller than 20T too.

One thing that was really cool is with the Novak, I don't have to modify the top screw slot!

[NomadRacer]

The BUG gets a little more aggressive...

[NomadRacer]

Picked up a jg A-16 Monster Truck Front Body Mount, new in package for an excellent price of 12 bucks shipped from eBay. Now slowly cutting it here and there to make it work. It's to tall and to wide at the top for the bug body.This seemed to be the easiest way to go. I'm using servo tape to hold it in position as I work. I'll have to dig deep in the stash for some body posts.



I also got some new black #6370 dogbones today. I like the fit (and look) of them better. The pins are .003" larger in dia. than the silver ones I had. There's very little "slop" in fit to the axles and outdrives now.

[NomadRacer]

The front body mount has progressed really well over the past couple of days. It's still held to the shock tower by .008"thick 3M VHB double stick foam tape. This time, I'll be setting up to drill some holes in it. After the mount is solid to the tower, some more excess kydex will be cut off.



I've opted to cut out the front nose of the body in order to bring the body forward. I think it looks pretty good this way.

[NomadRacer]

The rear body mounts have happened rather quickly, compared to the front.

I started out with some strip kydex and an idea in my noggin on how to go about it.



This is what I end up with after a long night...



The body posts come from the Associated RC12R5.2. The dia. is 5mm so the holes in the side of the body had to be slightly reamed out.
Next is to do a little measure/mark on the chassis plate to drill some holes and mount them.

[lmw94002]

Looking good.

Another trick I saw was someone who tapped the wing tubes, then took a thin/long flat piece of fiberglass and mounted body mounts to that and screwed it into the wing tubes.