Factory Works/A&L C2 build...

[NomadRacer]

Got my order in today...

C2 Trailing Arm kit drilled for Lethal Weapon transmission

Blue Lethal Weapon trans. kit

BB Steering kit (less bearings)

Samples of some cool red fancy washers!

Thanks to GoMachV for taking care of me

[NomadRacer]

pic failed to upload, trying again...

[GoMachV]

Those washers are "cool things" and they come in lots of styles and a few colors They will be on the website eventually

[NomadRacer]

Those washers are "cool things" and they come in lots of styles and a few colors They will be on the website eventually

I really dig the button head style.

[GoMachV]

The large ones are good for the motor screws. Keep it from moving around

[NomadRacer]

Can anyone recommend a pinion/spur (48p) for the LW? Nearly certain I will need to get a Power Clutch for it.
Motor will be a 17.5 brushless (because I have a new Reedy Mach 3) with 2s Lipo battery.

Also, where can I get a plug/cap for the lexan gear cover so I can easily adjust the power clutch without having to remove the cover? My LW kit did not come with one.

[NomadRacer]

The large ones are good for the motor screws. Keep it from moving around

Very cool! I thought they looked kinda like the "washer" on the Lunsford Racing Fat Boy brushless motor screws.

[GoMachV]

When you buy the Power Clutch it comes with the plug for the gear cover. The non Power Clutch transmissions don't need it so it isn't included

I couldn't tell you where to start on gearing with a brushless motor. These transmissions were never built for that kind of power (especially without the Power Clutch) so just be aware, these come from the days of 12 and 13 turn mod motors. You may experience stretching belts or skipping teeth if the power is too high. There is a download on the website under instructions called "pit boss" that gives some gearing tips for the old brushed motors.

The LW is a 2.22 ratio compared to the stealth at a 2.25, so gearing should be relatively close

[NomadRacer]

Thanks GoMachV. I'll get with you in an email later today about a Power Cluth and a couple other things I'd like to get.

I might go with something a bit milder, say a 21.5 instead?

While jammin to some Supertramp this morning, I built the LW. I used ACERracing ceramic nitride diff balls. It's smooth as silk!

I have come up with one part from the C2 kit that needs a slight modification, the Kydex motor guard. I'll need to take a little off of the top, maybe an 1/8" or so. It is just a tad to long for the LW, hitting on the back end of the tranny, not letting everything bolt in place. It's either cut or heat and bend it up some.

[GoMachV]

Those were cut down from the full size bumpers used on the actual C2. Your kit was never produced, that's something new being able to use the two together. I'll start cutting off a little more.

[NomadRacer]

I ended up cutting off 5mm and happy with it now.



The Lexan gear cover was really easy to mount and trim.

[Mr. ED]

Alec wrote a post here long ago and explained how to tighten up the belt for stronger motors. The team drivers added layers of cellophane tape on the belt tensioning wheel surface

[NomadRacer]

Alec wrote a post here long ago and explained how to tighten up the belt for stronger motors. The team drivers added layers of cellophane tape on the belt tensioning wheel surface

I'd like to read that post. I'll try the forum search feature.

The Power Clutch and a spare belt are on the way. I was thinking of trying a short stack rotor 17.5 brushless. It would have less torque and I could tinker with all kinds of parameters within the ESC programing. That's something to ponder while I wait on the USPS to bring me all my stuff!

[GoMachV]

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=19831&p=193776

[NomadRacer]

Thanks for the link dude

After hitting up two Walmart's and three Dollar stores yesterday I was not able to track down some Rit DyeMore graphite to do my bulkhead and other parts. No worries, Amazon Prime will get me a couple of bottles here the first of the week.