Getting the big Fairlane back on the road.... Going the whole 9 inches

[RC10th]

I've done some more research to see what gear sets are available and the 3.45 will suit me best I think.

Speed limit here is 110kph which is 68.35mph, other states it's 100kph which is 62.14mph.

With a 25.6" tall tire the engine RPM would roughly be.....

110kph/68.35mph = 3178rpm
100kph/62.14mph = 2889rpm


I think this ratio is the best choice as it will give the most performance while still allowing for long freeway trips.



My buddy had an 86 Camaro and didn't know how to pass for beans, he'd stick right up behind someones bumper, pull out and then boot it. The car would kick down into second and scream its head off not going any faster then it was before, finally shift back into third and then finally start accelerating around the vehicle to pass.

[tamiyadan]

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[RC10th]

My F150 was loud, with the windows down you couldn't carry a conversation and even then with them shut you had to nearly yell. If you were against the center median barrier forget about it. That spun about 3k at 65mph. It was tolerable to me, plus you get used to it.

So far my car has 2.92's, way too slow out of the hole for me. At about 60kph+ it's ok. Going to a 3.23 isn't much of a difference I don't think, not worth changing the ring and pinion. 3100 at 110kph is starting to get up there but still managable imo.

Here are my options....

3.73 Ratio w/25.6" Tire Diameter
110kph = 68.35mph - 3436 RPM
100kph = 62.14mph - 3124 RPM

3.45 Ratio w/25.6" Tire Diameter
110kph = 68.35mph - 3178 RPM
100kph = 62.14mph - 2889 RPM

3.23 Ratio w/25.6" Tire Diameter
110kph = 68.35mph - 2975 RPM
100kph = 62.14mph - 2705 RPM

2.92 Ratio w/25.6" Tire Diameter
110kph = 68.35mph - 2690 RPM
100kph = 62.14mph - 2445 RPM

[romulus22]

I would say it won't be too drastic of a difference. 3.45 and around there is a very common street gear. Just enough of highway and acceleration. My 91 Z28 had 3:23 and I went with 3:73. After it was done I had wished I got the 3:42. I did pick up 6-7 tenths at the track though with the 3.73's over the 3.23's

[RC10th]

Pretty much exactly why I picked that ratio, the best all rounder. If I had a 4 speed or an overdrive it would have been a different story. Also, I didn't think going from 2.9 to 3.2 would have been worth the expense.

6-7 tenths is a good bit, nearly 3/4 of a second !

[RC10th]

Car is booked in for headers. I couldn't be bothered fitting them and then towing it or risking a ticket driving to the exhaust shop, so I'll have them do it all.

I'm stuck between try-y's and long tubes. I've always been a long tube kinda guy so I'm leaning toward them. The heavy claims of increased low - mid range power over a broad power band on the try-y's are what's hanging me up, but, on the other hand Cleveland people mainly say they respond better to long tube headers Some claim try-y's have been seen to gain up to a 50+ ft lb increase!

I've also decided to go with a simple "H" pipe type balance tube for a deeper and better sound. On my 400ci Ford (tall deck 351) I don't like the "growl" caused by the "X" pipe.

I'm optimistic about picking up a reasonable bit of power and torque with a better set up. Currently on cast manifolds and no balance tube between cylinder banks. I'm also hoping it also free's up the motor a bit.

[jwscab]

can't go wrong with the standard long tubes. i mean, except for crappy gasketing issues that seem to crop up. If you aren't on the cutting edge of HP, which this car does not seem that way, you are doubtful to see any meaningful diff between a tri-y and standard long tubes.

H pipe also a good idea.

[RC10th]

Long tubes went in today and they look pretty snug in there, not much room.

Man what a difference they made, night and day. Car feels stronger, you can actually feel the torque converter better (before it felt a bit mushy) idle quality is much better and the car revs cleaner and is more crisp, the engine also runs way smoother. The H pipe and partial 2 1/2" tubing helped too I'm sure

The whole thing went from mushy restricted vagueness to finally starting to feel like it should. The exhaust guy was pretty happy and said that changing out the 20yo mufflers and the rest of the tubing to 2 1/2" should make it feel that much better again.

Couple that with the rear gears and this should be a pretty stout little car. Probably a bit too much for its standard of safety

[RC10th]

I bit the bullet and bought a Ford 9", It's not as nice as Todds but it will do for me. I wasn't planning on buying a new axle at this point but it just happened that it popped up not far from me at a good price, and was everything I was looking for. I couldn't refuse as something like it would NEVER pop up again. It is a 100% direct bolt in without any modifications. It's the 3.5 ratio I wanted and is a limited slip. It is also set up with the disk brakes flanges which my calipers and stone guards fit.

I was quoted about $600 + gear set to replace and set up a new ratio in the Borg Warner diff. For about double that I got the 9", even if I found another 9" with disk brakes and a direct fit for my car I'd still have to replace the gear set.

Win Win.....

I'll have the calipers rebuilt and will replace the rubber and hard lines. I will also replace all the spring eyelet, shackle and spring saddle bushings.

[RC10th]

Just for fun this is the type of diff currently in the car. Look at the difference in pumpkin size


I'm already looking at more power.

[DaveM]

Nice one RJ,

Like Mike Wolf says the time to buy is when you see it.

Can't let a bargain get away.

[romulus22]

Great find. Killer it's everything you wanted and is a direct bolt in. How has the car been running?

[RC10th]

Thanks guys, it was a lucky find as the 3.5 ratio was never offered from the factory for these cars.

To be honest I've hardly driven it, hasn't even ticked over 500 miles yet. I will put the 9" in and take it in for it's first service (engine builder to check engine over). It needs a retune then it's all good to let loose.

[romulus22]

To be honest I've hardly driven it, hasn't even ticked over 500 miles yet.

I'd be past that within the first week. What kind on engine modifications you thinking? I can't remember if I remember reading do you know about what HP/KW you're at now?

[DaveM]

Hi romulus,

I had a new dirt bike once, late 1989, did 10,000 in 3 months.

It was so new, I couldn't get a new power valve for it.

Just wired it in the open position, until one became available.

Luckily piston and rings were the same as the previous year.