Getting the big Fairlane back on the road.... Going the whole 9 inches

[jwscab]

floats too high will give you a wandering idle with teary eyes, but shouldn't affect acceleration unless they are way off and choking the engine, by then your idle should be terrible.

can you tell when you get the bog it's a black plug of smoke, or is it a hesitation before getting moving?

I suspect you need to check your vacuum advance and make sure your accel pump is adjusted right. The other thing could be a wrong or broken power valve, though if the idle isn't bad, it's probably not bad. Carb is a newer one so should probably have a check valve installed.

if the cam is bigger than stock, it's always a good idea to update the mechanical advance springs from stock heavy ones. in the right applications, the car can pick up what feels like a ton of HP from throttle response.

[RC10th]

The idle is too high in my opinion to begin with and unfortunately I don't have a tach to tell exactly where it is. You can also see the float level is halfway up the sight plugs instead of being flush with the bottom of the plugs. No black smoke as such that I can tell but you can smell fuel and can see carbon deposit spots on my driveway from the exhaust.

The dyno shop recurved the distributor (MSD) twice and disconnected the vac advance. I will see if I get black smoke next time I take the car out, you can feel the engine pulling before it falls a bit flat and doesn't do much. The car runs quite well under normal driving.

Also if you hold the car in first, run the gear out a bit and back of quickly, when you get back on the throttle it will cough and stumble till it clears out.


I think the dyno shop spent so much time messing around with the carb that instead of spending more time getting it fine tuned they just got it running reasonably well and gave it back to get it out of the shop. They would have spent over 8 hours on it thanks to Holley, and were initially confident that it would have been pretty straight forward and fairly quick.

If they ran it on the dyno properly they would have had an AFR sensor in the exhaust. I guess the symptoms could also be related to the secondaries or power valve. I havent driven the car enough to try and narrow it down, but we'll see Saturday....

I don't want to touch their tune as I'll have no recourse for any issues that arise if I play with it.

[Coelacanth]

Maybe we should all pile in and head to Alex's.

I smell a road trip...one helluva roadtrip from my house anyway


Sux about the carb but if it didn't run it might work with warranty. I know once its installed and running that Holley doesn't do much for you. Worst case scenario is you have to work the crap outta it to make that brand new bad carb. work for you

Todd

I don't think you could make it work no matter how hard you tried. Engine builder couldn't get it sorted so he sent it to dyno tuners, dyno guys couldn't make it work after 7 hours. Luckily dyno guys deal directly with Holley so hopefully they have some pull. We'll have to wait and see.... Runs great with a diffent carb.

That was my same experience when I put a Holley 750 double-pumper on my '70 Charger (383 Magnum)...that thing NEVER ran right, no matter how much I fiddle-farted around with it. Put on an Edelbrock Performer 750 and it ran great, right out of the box, even before tuning. I sold the Holley to a Chev guy who put it on a '68 Malibu SS 396 and it worked fine on his car. Go figure. Some carbs just work better on some engines than others.

[RC10th]

It's pretty well known on the Charger forum that Holleys and Mopars don't always mix well for some reason. Why that is is a mystery.

I would have tossed this 670 ultra avenger on the shelf for something different if it wasn't $1000 for a new carb

[jwscab]

yeah understood on not touching it to let the shop fix their mistakes.

yeah, if you think the idle is too high and the floats are that far off, that can certainly be most of the problem there. the idle is way to rich and won't stay running with the floats that high, and likely the idle screws out of wack too.

[tamiyadan]

.

[romulus22]

I hate that point where you're so close but one thing is still holding you from really enjoying your work. Hope it all gets sorted out soon.

[RC10th]

I'm just happy it's back on the road, quite a relief that all the countless hours are behind me. Even if it needed another engine overhaul everything is there and set up so it should be considerably easier this time.

As long as I don't glaze the bores running it in everything should be fine, a cam swap isn't too hard if more power is required

I'm also happy all my mechanical and electrical work actually worked without issues

I can't wait to get a set of headers on it, I know the cast manifolds are restrictive and robbing power. I decided not to put headers on it for cam break in due to the heat involved, and I'm quite surprised my pot belly paint held up to it on the manifolds.

I'm going to go with these Pacemaker tuned length headers, 1 3/4" primary to 3" collector. Should be good for up to 500 HP and have good exhaust port velocity.

[jwscab]

you're not going to glaze the rings if they bored it out recently and used modern rings. Engines being built in the last 15-20 yrs don't really need a break-in on anything except the cam, IF it is a flat tappet. If you are running flat tappet, be sure to run oil additive for the life of the engine. modern oil has no lubricants added that flat tappets need.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/isk-zddp?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-isky-racing-cams&gclid=CjwKEAjw7qi7BRCvsr3N58GvsTkSJAA3UzLv8w-5tYXMZsH3-2gjPZVdJSMNIW1EVpoyvHRCL1ulHhoCiBrw_wcB


use at every oil change. speaking of, you can probably get away with 4-5000 miles on good oil these days.

[RC10th]

I normally run Royal Purple HPS 20w-50 in everything, plenty of zinc. The zinc and phosphorous content is something everyone with a flat tappet cam should be aware of.

The engine was bored and honed with new pistons and rings. I did buy some 15w-40 non friction modified mineral running in oil (1600+ ppm zinc) to run for 500 kilometers to help bed the rings etc.

[jwscab]

ok, good that you know.

[Coelacanth]

you're not going to glaze the rings if they bored it out recently and used modern rings. Engines being built in the last 15-20 yrs don't really need a break-in on anything except the cam, IF it is a flat tappet. If you are running flat tappet, be sure to run oil additive for the life of the engine. modern oil has no lubricants added that flat tappets need.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/isk-zddp?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-isky-racing-cams&gclid=CjwKEAjw7qi7BRCvsr3N58GvsTkSJAA3UzLv8w-5tYXMZsH3-2gjPZVdJSMNIW1EVpoyvHRCL1ulHhoCiBrw_wcB


use at every oil change. speaking of, you can probably get away with 4-5000 miles on good oil these days.

Here's a much better price on that ZDDPlus additive, this was linked over on the www.turbobuick.com forum. Note: I was able to buy the 5-pack for $40 USD with a Best Offer negotiation. Shipped very fast, too.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/111144166566?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[RC10th]

It's surprising how few parts store employees know about zinc and when you ask about it give you funny look.


Hell, the last place I went to and asked for carburetor studs the response I got was "what are they" I said nevermind and walked out. This is the same place I previously asked for a valve cover breather and was told they don't make them anymore. I don't shop there anymore.

[PlastiZapCA+]

It's surprising how few parts store employees know about zinc and when you ask about it give you funny look.


Hell, the last place I went to and asked for carburetor studs the response I got was "what are they" I said nevermind and walked out. This is the same place I previously asked for a valve cover breather and was told they don't make them anymore. I don't shop there anymore.

Probably millennials lol. Amazing how little kids seem to know about cars these days. I'm constantly having to help them with their cars at work. Your machine is looking great by the way. Keep working on it and you'll get those bugs sorted.

[RC10th]

Thanks

I took the car back and they say nothing is wrong. The float level may be ok due to Holley lowering the sight plugs so that the correct level is the middle of the sight plug.

I still think it's on the rich side and that the idle is too high (800+ ish). It loads up on fuel and misses a little bit upon start up when cold on fast idle, not exactly something you want running in a new engine. I'll just continue running it in and see what happens whether it gets better or worse, then take it to someone else for a second opinion.

After I get headers I'm pondering changing the rear gear to wake the car up. I didn't want to change the rear gear but think it will be the biggest improvement. Somewhere around 3.50 to 3.70. There are calculators to aid in ratio selection as I'd like to keep the RPM under 3000 at 60mph.

More money