RC10t from the ground up...
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Re: RC10t from the ground up...
I don't think there is difference fitment wise, just color. As far as I know if it says World's car bulkhead it should be black, but I can't say for sure. If all else fails you could call perhaps and ask. But like it was already mentioned the part number for white or black is the same.
Current:RC10T, T3 FT, GT Blue Tub, GT FT, GT2 FT, GT5, RC28, SC28, Micro RS4.
Previous:B2, B3, B3 FT, 10T pink chassis, GT FT, TC3, TC3 FT, RS4MT
Tamiya TA02, Thunder Tiger TS4N pro, Kyosho VoneR, Emaxx, MX4, MP 7.5, 7.5 Kanai.
Previous:B2, B3, B3 FT, 10T pink chassis, GT FT, TC3, TC3 FT, RS4MT
Tamiya TA02, Thunder Tiger TS4N pro, Kyosho VoneR, Emaxx, MX4, MP 7.5, 7.5 Kanai.
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Re: RC10t from the ground up...
Are you sure it's 6232? I'm getting a shock tower on the associated website under that number:
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6232-ASC6232-front_shock_tower/
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6232-ASC6232-front_shock_tower/
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Re: RC10t from the ground up...
6323 is the p/n. White only though.
Current:RC10T, T3 FT, GT Blue Tub, GT FT, GT2 FT, GT5, RC28, SC28, Micro RS4.
Previous:B2, B3, B3 FT, 10T pink chassis, GT FT, TC3, TC3 FT, RS4MT
Tamiya TA02, Thunder Tiger TS4N pro, Kyosho VoneR, Emaxx, MX4, MP 7.5, 7.5 Kanai.
Previous:B2, B3, B3 FT, 10T pink chassis, GT FT, TC3, TC3 FT, RS4MT
Tamiya TA02, Thunder Tiger TS4N pro, Kyosho VoneR, Emaxx, MX4, MP 7.5, 7.5 Kanai.
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Re: RC10t from the ground up...
Whoops I was dyslexic when I typed it in!RS Chris wrote:6323 is the p/n. White only though.
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Re: RC10t from the ground up...
So here's a random question - the current worlds car tub chassis with the H indentation will fit the 10t truck, right? I assumed it was the same but I didn't want to grab one on the cheap then find out it didn't!
I also got quoted on my current chassis and it's honestly not all that bad. I want to do something with it but for expediency I think I'm going to grab another chassis to get a roller going...
I also got quoted on my current chassis and it's honestly not all that bad. I want to do something with it but for expediency I think I'm going to grab another chassis to get a roller going...
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Re: RC10t from the ground up...
Yes,
After the worlds came out, it was an optional replacement chassis for the 10T.
You can find it in the RC10T parts list.
Cheers, Dave.
After the worlds came out, it was an optional replacement chassis for the 10T.
You can find it in the RC10T parts list.
Cheers, Dave.

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Re: RC10t from the ground up...
Ok started pulling things off the old truck and breaking things down for cleaning and re-dying. I did the original parts in like 1993 with who knows what for dye... so they've turned almost like a brown to maroon in spots. I'm going to use Rit to dye over the old stuff (which is probably Rit too)...
Ive bought a few additional rpm parts, A&L parts, associated CVDs, and Lunsford turnbuckles.... but not like my other RC Carbon works build that's basically all aftermarket and very minimal factory stuff. Actually pretty much the opposite! I've settled on a black with fluorescent yellow theme as you can see from some of the accent pieces below:

Any idea if I can just drop the old rusty hardware, screws, balljoints, etc... in evaporust? Has anyone done that and had success?



Ive bought a few additional rpm parts, A&L parts, associated CVDs, and Lunsford turnbuckles.... but not like my other RC Carbon works build that's basically all aftermarket and very minimal factory stuff. Actually pretty much the opposite! I've settled on a black with fluorescent yellow theme as you can see from some of the accent pieces below:

Any idea if I can just drop the old rusty hardware, screws, balljoints, etc... in evaporust? Has anyone done that and had success?



- jwscab
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Re: RC10t from the ground up...
yes evaporust will clean up rusty hardware if it's just phosphoric acid. which it probably is.
I would definitely go with a new/used chassis over your chassis welded. to get that a. smooth, b. flat, c. strong would be prohibitively expensive. and not worth it. Welding aluminum does a couple of things: it will need to be reanodized, and the biggest is that with so much welding it will be weak and warped to hell.
I would definitely go with a new/used chassis over your chassis welded. to get that a. smooth, b. flat, c. strong would be prohibitively expensive. and not worth it. Welding aluminum does a couple of things: it will need to be reanodized, and the biggest is that with so much welding it will be weak and warped to hell.
- slotcarrod
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Re: RC10t from the ground up...
Keep the chassis you drilled original, don't weld it. Find a new Worlds chassis or even a rere worlds chassis if you don't care about the missing B stamp. The rere is cheap.
Rod Littau
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
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Re: RC10t from the ground up...
Anyone using Proline Trencher 2.2t's? I had blackfoot tires on my old 10t but those dry rotted... I'm looking for something that could be used for back yard fun and it any type of racing or anything...
Re: RC10t from the ground up...
I just put a set on my old T. They don't fit the old 3 piece wheels you have to get the standard one piece wheels and glue them. They are tall tires and like all modern tires are very flexible latex like. I taped the rear tires so they wouldn't have the balooning effect at high RPM. They come with open cell white foam inserts. They are taller than the stock RC10T tires at 4.1 inches diameter. They seem to have a good all purpose tread and are proline's "yellow" compound which is the second hardest in the lineup.firebird1999us wrote: ↑Mon Mar 27, 2017 8:35 pm Anyone using Proline Trencher 2.2t's? I had blackfoot tires on my old 10t but those dry rotted... I'm looking for something that could be used for back yard fun and it any type of racing or anything...
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Re: RC10t from the ground up...
^^^ thanks for the writeup and tips! I actually grabbed some. Now that I've almost got our house back together after it was destroyed by a pine tree I should be able to finally assemble stuff on my next vacation
Re: RC10t from the ground up...
Nice! A few more tips:firebird1999us wrote: ↑Thu May 18, 2017 8:38 am ^^^ thanks for the writeup and tips! I actually grabbed some. Now that I've almost got our house back together after it was destroyed by a pine tree I should be able to finally assemble stuff on my next vacation
Be careful with the white open cell foam it can tear easily when taking it out or putting it in. Also clean off the bead area with some rubbing alcohol before gluing them to rims. It cleans up the release agent used at the factory. And you will need to vent the rims or tires. I did the rims in two spots, directly opposite with a small drill bit.
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