Anyone good with car audio?

[V12]

When istalling the power wires, connect all the ground wires of radio, amps etc. at same position. Otherwise strange things could happen. I personally used distribution blocks for ground and power.

[RC10th]

That's easier said then done.

I got my sub which doesn't fit in my trunk as good as I had hoped. The box is a whisker too long and wont fit up against the quarter panel due to a chassis brace being in the way. I've also come to realize that I ended up with more power then I really need. I rather use slightly smaller speakers that fit the holes better for the front but will overpower them with my current set up. Wedging some 6.5"s in will require a bit of cutting and even then it will be tight getting them to physically fit.

[RC10th]

Can someone shed some light on the Pioneer A series vs D series. Both series of speakers are highly rated. The D series only come in 2 way so the 3 or 4 way A series should be cleaner. Many say the D series being 2 way are their downfall as it's asking the speaker components to cover the "wrong" frequencies. The D series sensitivity is also quite low.

From what I gather in the audio world the standard is to keep the EQ fairly flat, however, many say that with "abnormal" EQ graphs the D series are amazing. The smaller A series speakers require more power then the D series, which is good in my case. The A series speakers have been labeled by some as really cheap quality.

[RC10th]

I finally got around to installing my head unit. I was putting it off as I didn't want to cut up the old adaptor but ended up doing so anyways. It would have been much easier to install the head unit first and wire it out from there instead of running the wires first. I put the 90* RCA plugs to the back of the head unit for more clearance but one of them fouled on the heater box and wouldn't let it push in fully. I had to pull the RCA cables out and flip them around. I will probably cut off the 90's anyways and install my own straight plugs.

Aside from stuffing around with the cables for about an hour the install was pretty easy. Everything appears to work ok although I haven't hooked up the amps or speakers yet.

[RC10th]

I ended up running new speaker wire, I decided to upgrade to 12awg due to the longish cable run. I also cut and spliced the RCA cables to length. I just need speakers so I can button everything up.

[RC10th]

Woo hoo, my TS-D6902R's came today. I only ordered them them just after midnight on the 30th of September. They look quite nice and sounded really good when combined with the new yellow cone 6 3/4" components, they sounded really lively. I don't really have room for 6 3/4's so I might be stuck with the 6 1/2" two ways again, although not as crisp.

[RC10th]

I finally wired up my amps except for power and ground. Can I use a distribution block for both power and ground?

My OCD kicked in and I tidied up all the wires and hooked up the 6x9's. Nearly ready to fire the system up, then the fun of trying to tune it all.

[RC10th]

I've got everything wired up and playing now, man I've missed good sound. I can't believe how far low bass travels. The Pioneer components in the front are pretty crisp and I can't complain.

I've got it all sounding pretty good but think I can improve a bit more by changing the wiring a bit. Basically I went with RCA out connections due to the overwhelming favorability over speaker outs. My head unit only has two RCA outs. You can see my set up in figure #1

The best sound I could get was with an SP-P/O setting [REAR/REAR]. With a bit of tuning this provided the most full sound even though the sub was playing higher frequencies then with [REAR/SUB.W]

The factory default SP-P/O [REAR/SUB.W] with set up figure #1 provided great front sound, better bass from the sub then [REAR/REAR] but little to no rear speaker output (unless the 4ch was switched to 2ch which killed the fader) I assume this is due to the LPF in the head unit blocking the higher frequecies resulting in too low frequency output for full range speakers.

So, my basic question is can I hook my system up like figure #2 for an even better result so all three channels are independently adjustable? This would keep the front unchanged, allow the rears to play full range, and keep the sub on the low frequencies? I don't see why this wouldn't work.

[integra22t]

i would go for A .. but i would delete the rear speakers and goto a tweeter/mid/midbass/sub set up for SQ

as a rule of thumb the sub should have 4x power than the mids ( a good 6.5 componet set is nice )

i dont run rear speakers as it pulls the sound stage back behind your head insted of infront of you

this is my set up in my good car ... just a small one compared to my CRX i use to have

2" tweeter
6.5 mid
8" mid bass
12" dvc sub
Rockford Symetry crossover
rockford 400a4
rockford 500a1
rockford 1000a1

[Kyoshojoe]

I personally would use a y adapter on the rca plugs going into the highs amp and use the gains to match the levels to your liking, but you would sacrafice the fader capability. The way you show the hookup in #2 should be fine too and you would still have fader. I would not run subs and rears off same channel.

[RC10th]

Pioneer got back to me and said the amp was an auto sensing input, so you couldn't have different inputs, only one or the other. In that case I should still be able to use a RCA high-low line converter for the rear speakers.

When the sub was on it's own off [REAR/SUB.W] it played loooowwww. Lower then [REAR/REAR] with the LPF on with bass boost etc...