My RC10 Project

[VTBruiser]

My first RC10 build!

The overall plan is to incorporate a mix of classic, world's, aftermarket and vintage parts

Here's a look at the chassis









Parts

Team Associated RC10 World's Car Kit - 6002
JConcepts Aluminum RC10 Steering Bellcrank Set - 2309-2
DHawk Racing Aluminum Front Arm Mounts - DR-920043S
RC Carbon Works Carbon Fiber Racer's Edition RC10 Extended World's Front Shock Tower - CW-071
Team Associated Factory Team Aluminum Shock Bushings - 1780
DHawk Racing Aluminum Front Arms - DR-920074S
DHawk Racing Aluminum Front Caster Blocks - DR-920076S
DHawk Racing Aluminum Inline Steering Blocks - DR-920075S
Team Associated Front Inline Axles - 6220
Lunsford Racing Titanium Punisher Turnbuckles - various
RC Channel Aluminum M3 Rod Ends - MB70103
RC Channel Aluminum M3 Reverse Threaded Rod Ends - MB43508
DHawk Racing Aluminum Rear Bulkhead - DR-920033S
RC Carbon Works Carbon Fiber Racer's Edition RC10 Rear Shock Tower - CW-115
Team Associated Factory Team Aluminum Short Shock Bushings - 1781
Hot Racing Aluminum Spacers - SPC3005
RC Carbon Works Carbon Fiber Racer's Edition RC10 Stealth Transmission Brace - CW-118
DHawk Racing Aluminum Rear Arm Mounts - DR-920036S
DHawk Racing Aluminum Rear Arms - DR-920037S
DHawk Racing Aluminum Rear Hubs - DR-920077S
Hot Racing Aluminum Spacers - SPC3007
DHawk Racing Aluminum Antenna Mount - DR-920058S
DHawk Racing Aluminum Battery Cup and Thumbscrews - DR-920047S
DHawk Racing Aluminum Body Mounts - unknown
Fastental, Hexcrews and Tony's Screws Fasteners and Hardware- various

[VTBruiser]

Shocks



Parts

Team Associated Aluminum Shock Caps - 6450
Team Associated Aluminum .89 Front Shock Bodies - 9311
Team Associated Aluminum 1.32 Rear Shock Bodies - 6446
Team Associated Factory Team 21x3mm TiN Shock Shafts - 91305
Team Associated Factory Team 27.5x3mm TiN Shock Shafts - 91306
Team Associated Shock Pistons - 6465
Team Associated Shock Rebuild Kit - 6440
Team Associated Shock Down Stops - 6466
Team Associated Factory Team Green Slime - 1105
Tamiya Silicone Damper Oil (Blue #600) - 53027
CRP O-Rings - 6156
DHawk Racing Aluminum Shock Collars - DR-920104
DHawk Racing Aluminum Spring Cups - unknown
RC Channel Aluminum M3 Short Rod Ends - MB51083

[VTBruiser]

Transmission



Parts

DHawk Racing Aluminum Stealth Transmission Case - DR-920072S
DHawk Racing Aluminum 7075 Alloy Hard Anodized Differential Gear - DR-920046
DHwak Racing Aluminum 7075 Alloy Hard Anodized Idler Gear - DR-920107
Team Associated Top Shaft - 9601 (original in kit was incorrectly machined)
Tamiya Cera-Grease HG - 87099
Avid RC Ceramic Metal Shielded Ball Bearings - various
Avid RC Tungsten Carbide Differential Balls - AV-332TC
Avid RC Tungsten Carbide Captured Thrust Bearing - F2.5-6/TC
GPM Racing Aluminum 80T 48P Spur Gear - HAB4480TGM
Team Associated RC10 1/4" Axle CVA Set - 6369
Team Associated B44.2 Rear/Center CVA - 9911

[Bubbleboy]

Ooooooo....shiny! Nice build!

[limestang]

Nicely done VTBruiser! Did you have to change the threads on the rod ends to fit the shocks, or are both metric?

Limestang

[THUNDERSTRIKE1]

COOL !!!!!

[VTBruiser]

Nicely done VTBruiser! Did you have to change the threads on the rod ends to fit the shocks, or are both metric?
Limestang

Many thanks to everyone for the kind words

Both the shock shafts and the rod ends that I used have metric threads

Team Associated Factory Team 21x3mm TiN Shock Shafts - 91305
Team Associated Factory Team 27.5x3mm TiN Shock Shafts - 91306
RC Channel Aluminum M3 Short Rod Ends - MB51083

I will update the parts list in my earlier shock post to help clarify this

[VTBruiser]

Servo





Parts

DHawk Racing Aluminum Servo Mounts - DR-920053S
Savox Aluminum Case Low Profile Brushless Servo - SB2261MG
Serpent Aluminum Servo Arm - 600292

[VTBruiser]

Motor





Parts

Novak Ballistic Spec 17.5T Brushless Motor - 3617
Robinson Racing Steel Absolute Super Hard 28T 48P Pinion Gear - 1428
GPM Racing Aluminum 7075 Alloy Hard Anodized 80T 48P Spur Gear - HAB4480TGM

[Squirrel40]

That is so nice makes me want to throw all my stuff in the garbage. Super nice job!

[VTBruiser]

Wheels and Tires

I narrowed down my choice of wheels to two candidates

Rogue Element Components (on the left) and DHawk Racing (on the right)



The REC wheels are a 2 piece design that use the stock RC10 Classic (or vintage) plastic wheel centers

The REC wheels also came with aluminum knockoffs

The DHawk wheels are a 3 piece design that come with aluminum wheel centers

REC knockoffs (on the left) and DHawk wheel centers (on the right)



Four different front tires were considered

(From left to right) Proline Edge, Proline Knobby, Duratrax Full Spike, and Duratrax Maxi Spike



Rear tire choice came down to the Proline Champion (left) and the Duratrax Full Spike (right)



For now, here's what I'm going with



Parts

Duratrax Front Maxi Spike 1.9 Tires - DTXC5014
Duratrax Rear Full Spike 1.6 Tires - DTXC4112
DHawk Racing Aluminum 3 Piece RC10 Wheels - unknown

[VTBruiser]

Rolling Chassis









Parts

Team Associated Silver Front Springs - 6496 replaced with Team Associated Gold Front Springs - 7425
Team Associated Silver Rear Springs - 6478 replaced with Team Associated Gold Rear Springs - 7435

[knixdad]

How much does it weigh?

It is very purty!

You need to polish up your REC rims.

[VTBruiser]

Electronics

I'm still trying to figure out the best way to setup the electronics

A few things to note about the DHawk battery cup and antenna mount



The DHawk battery cup is considerably thicker than the standard battery cup

As a result, many batteries don't fit

The DHawk antenna mount is tiny and I don't think I'll be able to enlarge the hole for the antenna tube much, if at all

The kit supplied antenna tube does not fit

I did find an old Tamiya antenna tube that could work, but it's super tight

Do I even need to run an antenna tube with a modern 2.4GHz receiver?

Any thoughts on ESC and receiver placement?



I'm thinking that moving them forward will help a little with weight distribution (probably won't make much of difference with this heavy build)



The ESC also came with a capacitor for the receiver



I've never used one before, so I don't know whether or not it's worth having

Anyhow, since I'm planning on installing a driver figure, I'm wondering if it makes more sense to run the motor wires along the side of the bulkhead as opposed to through the holes in the shock towers

For example, here is a pic of the RC10 Classic from RC10.com



I also picked up a couple of upgrades for the motor



Parts

TrakPower 2S 7.4V 5600mAh 60C Battery - TKPC0395
RC Carbon Works Carbon Fiber RC10 Battery Strap - CW-018
Novak Edge Brushless ESC - 1851
Novak Glitch Buster Capacitor - 5626
Novak Ballistic Premium Red Wire 13.5T Stator - S6613R
Novak High Torque 12.5mm Tuning Rotor - 5955
Futaba 3PL Transmitter - FUTK1300
Futaba R2004GF Receiver - FUTL7617

To Do

Replace Tamiya connector with Deans connector on ESC
Make 4mm bullet to Deans adapter for battery
Install new rotor, stator and wires on motor
Finalize component placement

[knixdad]

I don't always run a tube with my 2.4 receivers. Or I run a tiny one, it's nice not having to run it out of the body. You can even get receivers with internal antennas.