I have to admit that my knowledge on fluid dynamics and aero design... is limited. The rear downforce caused the front end to go so light that it lifted at almost the exact same speed as before. On a positive note, the only thing broken is an A-Arm after flying into the woods. This thing is definitely a tough machine. I am removing the wing and looking into a softer foam on a wider wheel from Gone Bananas. I need more traction to launch harder and accelerate faster. Back to the garage...
You need to put that wing on the front of the car to have even a chance at enough downforce to make that truggy controllable at the speeds you're aiming for. Way too much air is flowing under the car at those speeds. The more you reduce turbulence under the chassis, the faster your car will go, and the more controllable it'll be.
the truck body is like big sail, so you have that going against you.
setting the suspension attitude so that you have the front drooped compared to the rear will give you some downforce, but you are still fighting the sail. You may want to build some lexan fairings that wraps up and around the sides and front of the body as well as possible to prevent air drag from the body causing lift.
front wing can also help, as well, especially with decently sized side dams to keep it stable left to right(unless of course you hit crosswinds)
You could also load Dr. Pepper or Mello Yello in a pump sprayer and lay down a 50 foot or so traction pad. It makes a very sticky surface to help you accelerate quickly. We used it in our hair-pin corners bitd.
"The world looks so much better through beer goggles: Enjoy today, you never know what tomorrow may bring." Ken
Awesome replies you guys thank you for the good ideas. Sometimes in a long project you lose focus on the little things that really help it all come together. I've got some more work to do.
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On a side note, the custom gears from stock drive products are off the car and in the box.
With my T3 on 3s and 8.5 turns i had the same problems, so with your car it's 10 times worse I imagine..... You need the front to be low, or else you need a pilot licence.....
you could use a kind of diffuser/splitter up front ? To deflect the wind and not let it come unther the car?
Thanks broodenburg. I'm contemplating fitting a new high speed body like the protoform vrs-n.
I installed 2 temp sensors and mounted the rpm sensor. Went for a test run and shredded my 1st set of tires. I'll be installing the 2nd set from gone bananas with a softer compound on them.
If you want to get a little more aerodynamic search out a "roadkill" body. Will definitely help your situation and be a crappot lot easier to fit it to your truck than that car body. Just my opinion though but if you were wanting to mount a car body to this you should've started out with a car. You could've been @ 100 alot easier with a TC3
The only reason whey I keep reading your thread is you are doing it with a truck ...kinda like rooting for the underdog here lets here it for the Denver Broncos
Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!
klavy69 wrote:If you want to get a little more aerodynamic search out a "roadkill" body. Will definitely help your situation and be a crappot lot easier to fit it to your truck than that car body. Just my opinion though but if you were wanting to mount a car body to this you should've started out with a car. You could've been @ 100 alot easier with a TC3
The only reason whey I keep reading your thread is you are doing it with a truck ...kinda like rooting for the underdog here lets here it for the Denver Broncos
Todd
Is it still a truck if it has a wing in the bed and a nose cone ? I feel the exact same way though. I WANT to make the interceptor body do 100+.
I would need to buy a new uncut one on eBay so I can leave the front end on it. Every RTR body is cut high on the front and rear. The angle of the front end makes it real hard to add an angled splitter but I think I can give it a try. I can save the car body dreams for 125mph...
It's on there tight...*what looks like a circular cut on the bottom right is the protective film
I think I'll cut the bottom portion and attach it to the body bringing the bottom more level and so the clip isn't attached to the chassis. It may add strength though. This lexan is much thicker then the stock stuff.
looks good, now add a sheet underneath, wrap up to meet the two sides of the body and try to seal it all off except for the back. Once you get going, air is going to capture under the bed of the body from the sides and cause lift if you don't.
check out some of the insane speed run cars, I'm pretty sure there are some scans in the archives. If not, the RCCA archives.
I keep looking at your perforated windscreen and wondering about those wedge oval bodies ( modifieds?) that have an internal down force panel. It could take the place of your bed wing and reduce turbulence.
You need it slippery like a seal, slippery like those kids tube toys, slippery like soap in the........ ok, we won't go there.
My guess is the front wing will flex and drag the ground. You only need the smallest of wings, and as long the air pressure under the car is lower then above it won't take off.
is limited. The rear downforce caused the front end to go so light that it lifted at almost the exact same speed as before. On a positive note, the only thing broken is an A-Arm after flying into the woods. This thing is definitely a tough machine. I am removing the wing and looking into a softer foam on a wider wheel from Gone Bananas. I need more traction to launch harder and accelerate faster. Back to the garage...
The more you reduce turbulence under the chassis, the faster your car will go, and the more controllable it'll be.
