RC10 Rebuild/Stealth Tranny

[dbaucum]

Hey everyone,

I'm new to the forum. Thanks in advance for the help. My 9 year old has gained interest in RC hobbies, so I busted out my RC10 from when I was a kid and am working on taking it apart and rebuilding. It's a gold tub with a Stealth Transmission. Not sure of the "gear ratio". I ran it primarily on the road, so it's in great shape. I've spent some time on this forum looking around but have a couple questions.

1) Will my old Stealth Transmission run a brushless motor without being upgraded? I saw one conversation saying you could try replacing the transmission upper arm with a B4 arm and slipper which would help prevent meltdowns. I bought an upper B4 arm and it is a little wide to fit the slot in the stealth case. I can easily cut and polish that down. Thoughts??

2) If I do run brushless on vintage or slightly upgraded tranny, what should I run? If I have it correct, a high turn motor has more torque/less speed. So the higher turn motors may help prevent overheating?? So initially the highest turn brushless until I get a feel for how things are running?

3) Can someone give me a brief run down on "gearing up" and "gearing down"? Is it the ratio of teeth on the slipper to the differential gear in the tranny?

This rebuild is gonna cost WAY too much $$$ But totally worth it. Good stuff.

[DMAT]

welcome to the forum

the stealth transmission can handle brushless motors pretty easy. It might be worth rebuilding the differential while your at it though. you can buy the tc3 differential rebuild kit part asc3926. it will come with everything but the balls in the differential asc6581. you can find the assembly instructions on page 7 of the instruction manual.

what your referring to as the upper arm is usually called a top shaft. The conversion your wanting to do was done on associated re release of the worlds car. on page 8 of the instruction manual, it should show you what all parts are needed.

manual: https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10WC/Worlds_Car/RC10WC-Manual-updated.pdf

I believe the 17.5 turn brushless motors are similar to the old 27 turn brushed motors so that might be a good place to start.

[dbaucum]

Perfect! Thanks.

[harvey]

Your B4 top shaft doesn't fit the stealth case? Do you have pn 9601? You shouldn't have to cut it; I had one that rubbed on the (after market alloy) case because the shaft protruded past the bearing opposite the slipper, but i just budged the gear over with a socket and vise.

Heat seems to be a function of gearing regardless of the turns in my experience. I have an 8.5 that is geared low and it doesn't get much above ambient. Don't underestimate the gearing changes necessary for the low turn brushless, I have a hard time getting any heat out of a 17.5, geared 27/75. (Although my li-po's are only 25C) That car is running with a slipper eliminator to save weight, but I have found the initial acceleration adjustments on the esc really helpful to control wheel spin and wear to the drive shafts and tires. It all depends on your running surface; if you punch the throttle on a high bite surface a loose slipper is more necessary. Personally I'd recommend a 13.5 to start, as it's a satisfying speed with great run time and plenty of torque.

"Gearing up" is a harder gear ratio; bigger pinion/smaller spur. Gearing down is the opposite. The tranny ratio is important for your FDR, as motor manufacturers give recommended gearing ratios based on this.

There seems to be no shortage of torque with a brushless system in a 2wd, so you can gear up for speed until heat becomes an issue. Timing and boost also contribute to heat generation, so you want to monitor with a heat gun after you adjust gearing, timing or boost.

P.S. Just read about you driving with your 9 YO, and a helpful tuning aid on your esc would be to get one that has adjustable throttle limit. This would mean that if you did get a 13.5 and it was too much to handle, you could limit the throttle at the esc to a controllable level. This is better than just dialing down the EPA on the radio because you maintain the throttle steps (smoothness).

[bully]

You should read this https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwj-uLuAoJrKAhVFo5QKHditAZcQFgghMAE&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.teamassociated.com%2Fpdf%2Fcars_and_trucks%2Fshared%2Fgear_ratios.pdf&usg=AFQjCNFHvEQzsG9b1kv0ofhqgpyKjpCkQA&bvm=bv.110151844,d.dGo

Also look into the worlds re release they can be had for very cheap now...