need more steering.

[twisted]

race day is coming up and after some practice i noticed the car has a heavy push in the high speed sweepers. its also pushing mildly on tight corners. from my initial set up that you can see here :

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=39039

i went up to 40wt oil and a heavier spring in the rear. im running 2nd from outer hole on the tower (composit works 4 hole tower) and middle hole on arm (rpm team arms). i wanted to take the toe out of the rear end but i dont have the parts to do so.

i also went up to a slightly stiffer front spring as the car did not like the jumps at the track. (track is astro turf with carpeted jumps.some with no transition)

i can go down on the caster block in the front (not sure of the degree but it is less then the 30 thats on the car) but im not sure that will help any. i have two contradicting tips,less caster helps steering and more helps initial steering..any ideas?

[RC10th]

I would go back down a rear spring rate and oil wt, move the rear tower in one to two holes. Keep the shocks in the middle hole in the rear arm.

[twisted]

I would go back down a rear spring rate and oil wt, move the rear tower in one to two holes. Keep the shocks in the middle hole in the rear arm.

wont that give the rear end more grip?

[JK Racing]

I had an overall push (low and high speed) and made a camber link adjustment at the rear (shortened the linkage) to help the rear rotate...now I love the feel of the car Rotates great. I did not change spring/piston/oil or location of any of the shocks.

For the record, I also shortened the front linkage. I had driven my son's car with both linkages shortened and loved it, so I copied that camber linkage set up exactly onto my racer and it 'woke up' the steering.

[RC10th]

He said he went up in oil to 40wt and a stiffer spring which is pretty heavy for a 2wd buggy. I basically said to drop back where he started and try moving the tower in one or two holes. If the rear is too stiff it won't allow the rear to roll, and can take away steering.

[JK Racing]

Here are my camber link settings:

[yellowdatsun]

The tried-and-true way to get more cornering, in the easiest possible way, is to stiffen the rear spring (or more pre-load), and/or lighten up the front. It causes the weight to transfer forward under deceleration and braking, thus giving more front grip. Works perfectly for me. Just this one change can make a massive difference in cornering speed.


You can do roll center changes and pivot point changes all day, but the spring rates easily have the biggest impact on cornering.

[RC10th]

I respectfully disagree to some extent

[yellowdatsun]

That's why he's asking for opinions, everyone will have a different one.

In my personal experience, the preload of the springs have usually/always made the biggest difference. That is, of course, going on the assumption he's using the correct tires for the track. That's even bigger than the springs. Both can make you say, "holy crap" after they are changed.

Things like roll center, camber, caster, where the ball is mounted for the upper links, all play a roll in getting the car set up right, there's no denying that. BUT, I personally think tires and spring rate/preload are the two factors that will give you the biggest results. After you get those two dialed in, THEN move on to camber, caster, and pivot ball location.

[yellowdatsun]

slightly stiffer front spring

That alone was the biggest mistake. Stiffening the front end will create more "push"