someone should do this with a well trimmed and drilled protech. Maybe I'm just a spaz, but I have a hard time trimming the protech1 to fit well, and an even harder time getting the post holes in just the right spot, especially up front with the angled post.Tadracket wrote:If your body is cut right (mounting holes, wing holes, wheel wells, etc.) you could glue some lexan to the out side of holes, windshields, wheel wells, whatever, to keep plaster inside. The difference in depth will actually make it easier to cut out the next body.
How to repro a body...
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Re: How to repo a body...
- Mr. ED
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Re: How to repo a body...
Congratulations!
Looks pretty good already
Are you planning to build this out to a real businees, or just for your own use? (study project?)
The drying time will turn the production cost up a lot for small series.
Looks pretty good already
Are you planning to build this out to a real businees, or just for your own use? (study project?)
The drying time will turn the production cost up a lot for small series.
- ROH73
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Re: How to repo a body...
Thanks!Mr. ED wrote:Congratulations!
Looks pretty good already
Are you planning to build this out to a real businees, or just for your own use? (study project?)
The drying time will turn the production cost up a lot for small series.
Initially, the project is for my own use, but if everything goes well, I'll probably sell some of the reproductions. Of course, that means I'll need a supply of uncut vintage bodies to work from

Actually, the drying time is no big deal. My plan is to just build a drying box and leave many sheets of polycarbonate in it for a few days until needed. After that, each body takes about 5 minutes to heat, form and release from the mold.
Robert
- Mr. ED
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Re: How to repRo a body...
If you know someone who can create the cnc milling paths from a cad model or STL mesh, I can scan some uncut bodies; Triumph and Andies apache warrior something for yokomo's.
With a little extra work this procedure will work for cut and painted bodies also: I have acougar 2000+ tray and volks something for boomerang.
The best material to use for such a cnc milled mould would be HDF ( i think that's what it's called)
With a little extra work this procedure will work for cut and painted bodies also: I have acougar 2000+ tray and volks something for boomerang.
The best material to use for such a cnc milled mould would be HDF ( i think that's what it's called)
- Erich Reichert
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Re: How to repo a body...
I have someone that can take your scans to cad files if you want to do it.
- Mr. ED
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Re: How to repo a body...
thanks erich, that part I (probably) can manage myself.
It 's the next step which I don't have the software nor know-how for: creating the milling paths.
Thinking it over, getting the more expensive material and getting the mould milled is probably gonna outcost the shipping back and forth by a factor 5 or more.
I think it is only worth the trouble to go through scanning and milling for real rare bodies; for which it is impossible to find an uncut one: like the AYK trail something (that came pre-cut if i'm right)
It 's the next step which I don't have the software nor know-how for: creating the milling paths.
Thinking it over, getting the more expensive material and getting the mould milled is probably gonna outcost the shipping back and forth by a factor 5 or more.

I think it is only worth the trouble to go through scanning and milling for real rare bodies; for which it is impossible to find an uncut one: like the AYK trail something (that came pre-cut if i'm right)
- Erich Reichert
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Re: How to repo a body...
My thoughts exactly lol. What do you do over there anyway? I have a friend thats an english teacher in Kyoto.
- bscotti
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Re: How to repo a body...
What file extension would the NC tool path file have? I have 3 different CAD packages here and one of them should be able to do this. IF we have the license, of course!
Brian
Brian
Classics rule, moderns drool
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