The story of how this body ended up looking this way

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Hanibel75
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Location: Jefferson City, MO

The story of how this body ended up looking this way

Post by Hanibel75 »

Here is a picture of my HPI Micro Rs4.
Image

I had gotten a new chassis to be more competitive and the old body, the Ferrari in the background, would not fit.

So I ran to the hobby shop at lunch, bought a body that would fit, some paint and some trim tape. Cranked it out in a hour or so.

I put it in the back of my car so that the sun could dry the paint.

And of course I was racing that night. New chassis, new body. So I might as well put in that new modified motor.

I was a decent driver. Not with that motor and new chassis. It was so fast and the traction through the corners was insane.

This is what it looked like by the end of the night. Practice, a couple qualifiers and a see through car. I don't think I completed one lap without crashing into something until the mains

Took out the modified motor for the next week and then never raced it again.
Hanibel
Jefferson City, MO
RC10 Cadillac Gold Tub (in pieces)
RC10 Graphite (currently set up for rear motor class)
RC10 DS (SOLD)
TC3 (Last car I raced)
HPI Micro RS4 (lots of fun in a small package)
RC10B5M (Oval conversion for Street Stock)

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j-sou
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Re: The story of how this body ended up looking this way

Post by j-sou »

Did you wash the body well before paint? Strange. Even gnarly wrecks shouldn't let the paint flake off like that. It's like the paint didn't bond correctly with the body.
-I never said I knew what I was doing, I just said I was gonna do it!"

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Coelacanth
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Re: The story of how this body ended up looking this way

Post by Coelacanth »

That's surprising indeed. Pactra is possibly the most durable paint ever made for Lexan. Almost nothing will remove Pactra that's been painted on Lexan and given years to age. I wash the inside of a shell with regular dish soap after scuffing it up thoroughly everywhere except the windows with fine steel wool. There might've been residue of the mold releasing agent left on the body, which is why they recommend washing prior to painting.

https://www.greathobbies.com/technical/tech_lexan_bodies.php
Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3

Oozzee
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Re: The story of how this body ended up looking this way

Post by Oozzee »

i had the same problem with 1 of my world Builds, took my time painting/masking did a really good job of the shell in my opinion ( read very average but good for me) after the first test drive i noticed the paint starting to flake off, it was then that i realised that i had used TS paint instead of PC paint, Lessen learnt :?
The Dreaded 7 - 10 Split

Hanibel75
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Re: The story of how this body ended up looking this way

Post by Hanibel75 »

This was long ago. Most likely didn't wash it well enough.

And I don't know if anyone crashed as much as I did that night. It was a tight technical track. and I had not practiced with the new chassis and motor.

I do remember that I had to turn my throttle sensitivity almost to zero in order to finally finish a race.

And yes I should have switched back to the stock motor, but I had left it at work.
Hanibel
Jefferson City, MO
RC10 Cadillac Gold Tub (in pieces)
RC10 Graphite (currently set up for rear motor class)
RC10 DS (SOLD)
TC3 (Last car I raced)
HPI Micro RS4 (lots of fun in a small package)
RC10B5M (Oval conversion for Street Stock)

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