Closet find build

[MAC10]

Yea I remember the Twister motor was one of the "special" ones in the parts box. There is also a never run Kyosho Lemans in there. Not sure which one was supposed to be better. I'm kind of thinking now of building up the cleaner pan with the best of my OG parts, the Andy's arms and probably that twister motor along with original wheels. In other words keep it all vintage stuff except maybe a modern reciever and battery. Might run it easy in front of the house a few times so I know it works and then put it up as a shelfer.

The "runner" chassis I've decided I really should fabricate some bracing. The old cut down tub has a bit of sag to it. At first I thought I'll just live with it but I'm afraid it could really get bent out of shape hitting jumps with it. Crap, now as I'm typing this I'm thinking "maybe I should see if I can find a gold B stamp?" This is starting to get out of hand quick!!!!

[jwscab]

I wouldn't worry too much about the cut chassis, it's not an extreme cut so should be fine. If you are worried, you can get the A&L chassis brace kit, which is pretty great at stiffening the chassis. It's not that difficult to get the chassis straight, either. A couple of boards on the ground, place it suspended between them, and add a little weight to it and it is workable.

there are quite a few chassis' on ebay lately, you can find a nice one decently priced.

[MAC10]

Ok, thanks for the advice, that makes life a bit simpler. If it starts bending any further I'll just straighten it out and brace it then.

[MAC10]

Finally getting to bolt some parts together!

[jwscab]

awesome job. The mini bumpers are just nylon or kydex anyway, so yours is custom. They are a 'wearable' item so the easier and cheaper to get, the better.

[MAC10]

Thanks!

So I'm starting to look at the stealth build and I have a couple of questions if somebody could help? Looking at my notes on it, I see where somebody recommended gluing the diff rings to the out drives. Could someone expand on this a little since in the manual it looks like they say to use diff lube on both sides of the rings? Also in the old CE manual it doesn't say anything about lubing the rings themselves. Also should I worry about sanding flat new rings? How about the new thrust washers?

So really no grease or oil on the gears? I will have a hard time with this since a little lube seems to help everything on my helicopters! I plan on cleaning and using some light oil in the bearings.

Any other tricks or suggestions? This is an original, old stealth I am rebuilding.

Also, any sacrilege to cutting on an old CE motor plate? I am considered drilling and tapping for a B4 gear cover and cutting off the extra "heat sink" flat section. It is certainly not 'pristine'.

[jwscab]

gluing or adding stealth lube to the diff rings on the back side helps prevent slipping, but really, it's not a make or break deal.

sanding rings is fine if need be(showing clear signs of 'grooves'), use really fine paper, between 1000 and 2000 grit and use a flat surface and some light oil, and move around in a figure '8' pattern. If the rings are really bad, just get new ones, and no need to sand new rings. Thrust washers/balls take the brunt of abuse in a ball diff due to the size of them, so I would always recommend changing them and keeping a close eye on them for cleanliness. notchy diffs are usually the thrust assembly.

the gears are made so that no lube is needed, but it really wouldn't hurt if you added a dab if it makes you feel better.

diff is straight forward, add stealth lube to diff balls, black grease for thrust balls. One thing I always do is 'sneak' up on the diff setting, rather than cranking down the diff screw all in one shot till the diff spring is flat. first use a set of pliers and squeeze the diff spring a couple times as far as you can,(if the spring is new). then assemble as desired, and tighten the diff screw until the assembly has no slack, ie, the balls are touching both rings, then tighten a little, spin the diff halves, repeat until you can no longer hold both diff halves and spin the gear on them by hand. this means the diff isn't slipping with hand pressure. then maybe tighten another quarter turn, and install in the car. make any adjustment as necessary.

the motor plate is up to you. they are available new now, and are definitely not a rare part unless it's pristine. cut away if you want.

[MAC10]

Progress has been really slow. I've been working a lot or I'm waiting on hardware, parts, ordering different parts, etc....

I chickened out on using the Andy's arms on this thing since I intend to hit the track with it. mk-Zero, I think it was your build thread where you had two arms broken in one crash that pretty much made me forget about it! Yup, I'm going for the Siebenelch slammed-body look since the tub is already trimmed. Thanks for the inspiration!

I'm almost done with the transmission. I had to create some new threads in the case for the tranny brace bolts out of epoxy and I'm in the middle of mocking up the VTS slipper to tap a new hole for a B4 gear cover. It's tight but I think it'll work. Ordered turnbuckles from Lunsford, once those are here I think I have all the parts for a roller. Not sure what ball cups I want to use, I now have re-re glow-in-the-dark, Losi natural HDs, and white RPMs on hand. I located some CE shocks which I'll rebuild. I think I'll start with no.1, 30wt, and green springs?

[MAC10]

I intended to use J Concepts stainless ball studs everywhere but clearance is minimal here as you all know so I was able to find these short - necked studs at the local shop. I didn't feel like trial and error ordering more, does anybody know what stainless studs are .2" shank with the short ball / neck? Associateds part descriptions aren't super detailed as to what is what. Inner link is new DuBro ball links with a thin nylon washer beneath each. The 4-40 standoff for the servo link ball is from McMaster Carr. Not sure if these are the A&L or Losi bellcranks? The originals I am saving for my shelf car, I picked up another old pair to run on this car.

[MAC10]

Turnbucks installed. I like the smaller profile of the AE ball cups so I used those, I just have to tell myself the greenish tint is to go with the greenish g10!

[MAC10]

Of course I can't resist to mock it up with the wheels and see what it will look like. I'm about to build the shocks, anybody suggest a different starting point other than green springs, 30w, & #1 all around?

[MAC10]

I cut myself a tranny brace out of G10. Thank you to the members of this forum for ideas like this one. It's not perfect but it turned out ok for Dremel and sandpaper.

[MAC10]

It's Alive!!! Puttered around the kitchen floor for a minute, I feel like a kid again! I'm just happy I didn't burn up the esc or motor soldering the dang leads on, I suck at soldering! I think the diff was slipping quite a bit so I cranked it down a bit more. Not sure how to tell for sure if the diff or slipper is doing the slipping?? Off to figure out how to glue tires...

[Vale]

Nice build, love it! ...I just wonder you are using a truck shock tower on the rear?

Cheers,
Daniel

[MAC10]

Thanks! Yea that's a truck tower, I originally did it to be able to do the slammed body look. I'm not sure I'll keep it this way or not because it does look a little funky as tall as it is. I am thinking about mounting the shocks lower and trimming the ears of the tower down or I might try to copy the Worlds tower in G10. I've also thought about just cutting a custom tower to suit...