RC10DS Rebuild

[jwinker]

I heard replacement tires are pretty much non-existent for the standard RC10DS wheels. First - is that true? Second, if I replace rims & tires together, what do I need to know or avoid? I.E. - if I order a standard set of 1/10 onroad wheels, will they not-fit the DS?

Thanks!

EDIT: I'm going to rename this thread rather than start another thread for the rest of the build.

[romulus22]

You can find the answer in here

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=31213

[LoboNYC]

Thanks Romulus for posting my thread but unfortunately the item i was recommending was made be pro-line and is no longer in production.

There are two ways to update your front end so you can use modern day wheels and rubber. One way, im not to familiar with, is using the front end of a b2 car i think...there should be links here about route.

The second is what i've used on 7 of my DS cars....its the Associated SC10 2wd Front Axle Caster Block and 12mm hex; its made by associated which is a huge plus.

here is a link http://www.ebay.com/itm/380698319551?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

You'll need the rear hex as well...in this case its best to use the NTC3 rear hex clamps...they are wide and you need that width for the wheel nuts to keep the wheel securely mounted. Associated Part number 9892.

here is a link.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Associated-Aluminum-Clamping-Wheel-Hex-12mm-Rear-SC10-9892-NIB-/331054865866?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d14685dca

And to finally answer your question regarding tires...YES they are hard to find but they do exist. you need to keep your eyes open though.

Ive managed to catch some rears and some fronts from here in the states but the last few replacements i managed to grab were from Korea. Those were a pain as every time i ordered them it was a hit or miss, meaning they would be on there way, would never leave korea and the company would issues me a refund. anyway i think modern rubber would be better handling than the old road hawgs. Proline will never make them again...i emailed them as well.

good luck with your DS, hope to see your project here soon!

Thanks romulus...im getting my 19th DS tomorrow

[trek]

I just got done building up a DS and I tried to show in pictures how everything went together. I also posted a listing of the parts used.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=36935
I ended up using the vintage series of wheels and tires from HPI.

[Irio - esos]

Good information there, will help when I finally get a DS.

[Irio - esos]

Was wondering about the size too, but looks like the vintage rims are 31mm vs the standard 26mm touring.

[trek]

I had used 26mm on the front and 31mm on the rear. I think I have read some have done 31mm front and back.

[jwinker]

I just got done building up a DS and I tried to show in pictures how everything went together. I also posted a listing of the parts used.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=36935
I ended up using the vintage series of wheels and tires from HPI.

This is a perfect outline for the parts I will need. Thank you!

One more question about this - and please keep in mind, I'm just starting this research, haven't even taken my old wheels off yet...

What IS the issue with the original steering blocks & suspension pieces? Is it clearance? Axle diameter or length?

So far, I have replaced the MSC, LiPo battery & charger, and rewired. The car REALLY scoots with the new ESC & battery! Before I get too deep, I want to pick up a standard set of rims and a generic body just in case (read: when) I pile into the wall. I'll keep the stock parts together for history, but they're not exactly pristine anymore either.

I think I'm also going to keep my eyes open for a World's Car buggy and build it alongside the DS. I've always wanted one.

[trek]

So I can only comment on what I think I know. The original front setup has bearings in the wheels. It seems that all of the new wheels are "hex" wheels. This means the bearings need to move from the wheels to the car. That is what the new parts are doing, by using modern parts for the caster and steering block. You need to change the caster block because the hex steering blocks won't fit in the old caster blocks. With the changes it sets up the front to take the hex wheels. (and you add hexes to the back as well).

[LoboNYC]

I heard replacement tires are pretty much non-existent for the standard RC10DS wheels. First - is that true? Second, if I replace rims & tires together, what do I need to know or avoid? I.E. - if I order a standard set of 1/10 onroad wheels, will they not-fit the DS?

Thanks!

A Pm was sent to you regarding tires

[jwinker]

So I can only comment on what I think I know. The original front setup has bearings in the wheels. It seems that all of the new wheels are "hex" wheels. This means the bearings need to move from the wheels to the car. That is what the new parts are doing, by using modern parts for the caster and steering block. You need to change the caster block because the hex steering blocks won't fit in the old caster blocks. With the changes it sets up the front to take the hex wheels. (and you add hexes to the back as well).

THAT explains a lot!

I have ordered a cheap set of hex wheels off of ebay, primarily for testing fit & painting, etc.

Long-term goals are to do a different body & some nicer wheels, similar to Lobo's thread & other similar builds. I think I'm going to go a slightly-different direction with this, but we'll see how this next step comes out...

First goal: 10-minute run times - DONE!

Second goal: Modern front & rear suspension, ball bearings conversion...

[jwinker]

Ok...another question about this phase - body width?

Does anybody have an "official" measurement of the RC10DS for width and wheelbase? I have measured my original setup and it doesn't match any of the numbers mentioned. I'm basing my purchasing on the experiences of previous builds, like those mentioned above in this thread.

[LoboNYC]

The rear of the DS has a little spacer that allows you to increase or decrease the wheelbase slightly.

Placed in front of the suspension arm and you increase the WB. Place it behind the suspension arm and you decrease the the WB.

Same with the wheels. IF you have the DS wheel you have fixed width. if you use the HPI wheels then you have a choice of different offsets, 0, 3, 6, and 9mm. plus you have to take into account the width of the hex.

when i get back from our dinner i will measure and give you measurements on my unmolested DS cars.

[jwinker]

Well, I looked at my rear A-arms and, sure enough, when I moved the spacer to the rear of the A-arms I end up with a 260mm wheelbase instead of the previous ~263. With the spacer in front, it was just enough of a difference to make me second-guess what it was supposed to be. I have always felt like the body didn't fit quite right and I wonder if this was the root of the problem?

I also installed the new hex equipment today. The wheels *should* arrive tomorrow, so we'll see what it looks like when it's all finished. I think it's going to be a little narrow with the original body, but should be fine once I replace.

I also cleaned it up a little more & added some teflon bike chain lube to the primary gears & universal joints. It sounds smoother! Can't wait to see if it actually made a difference!

[LoboNYC]

Hey there is also another way to make adjustments...

I mounted an HPI Mustang Saleen 200mm body on a DS. I shortened the wheelbase but something was off. i use couldnt get it to sit right. Everytime i turned the front wheels they would catch the body. The rears wheel-wells were perfectly aligned. The wheel base was set to short but the fronts kept rubbing the body. I cant ket the wheelbase any shorter. Ive seen this body used before with no mods...what gives? Well i got that fixed.

Since i couldnt get the wheelbase to conform to the body...i got the body to conform to the wheelbase.

I used an NTC3 foam bumper in the front of the DS and it pushed the nose of the body fwd enough for the wheels to turn and clear the body...in fact the body now fits perfectly on the car thanks to the foam bumper.