Help with ID of what we have

[graybeard48]

Can any one help us ID the equipment we have and if it is a good start for a driver for my Grandkids. Below are the pictures. Thanks in advance Graybeard48

Well I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to computers so could someone help me out on how to post more pictures. The site keeps tell me the files is to big but I don't know how to shrink it. Thanks Graybeard48

[Phin]

Looks like you got a Cadillac era RC10 that's been upgraded to a Championship Edition and got a Jammin Jay tall front shock tower.

It's a good candidate for a kids basher but it looks like the tub is bent and needs straightening. Front shocks could use some internal limiting with fuel tubing or spacers and depending on the age of your grand kids you might consider replacing the Novak speed controller with something that has reverse.

[tuna.Rc]

Great start . I have started with just a tub, transmission and wheels !

I would upgrade the radio gear, and buy some rere parts .

[klavy69]

Well I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to computers so could someone help me out on how to post more pictures. The site keeps tell me the files is to big but I don't know how to shrink it.

easiest thing to do is upload them to a place like photobucket.com where its free and then just click on the img. link and paste it in your thread. It automatically resizes it for forum use on sites like that.

Todd

[graybeard48]

Thanks for the help. Sorry for not getting back sooner. My other son & I have a Datsun 510 we AutoX and we were busy re doing the setup
for this past weekends event. Anyway I have a few questions 1) will the ESC work with the new Lipo batteries? 2) will the charger work with the new Batteries? 3) will the motor work with the new batteries? 4) or should I stick with NiCd's and if so what size 2500ah,3500ah or
5000ah? and finally 5) should I disassemble the stealth gear box and service, lube or just run as is (it spins freely)? Also as to the tub being
bent it was the angle of the picture it lays flat and measures square on diagonals. Thanks again Graybeard48

[knucklebuster]

graybeard,

You can run the Novak and brushed motors with lipo batteries. I have found the Novak 14 gauge wire tends to desolder from the motor when running lipo batteries. I suggest soldering 1" of heavier gauge wire to the end of the motor leads. I would also suggest Deans or other quality plugs for the battery. When you finally decide to run lipo, you will wonder why you waited. You will need a new charger for lipo. Regarding the trans, if it ain't broke...

[graybeard48]

Knucklebuster, Thanks for the info, is there a particular brand of battery or charger that works best for you? I've also heard you need to solder a 47 microfarad capacitor across the motor leads is that correct? Graybeard48

[knucklebuster]

I purchase batteries and chargers from Hobbyking.com. I use the Nanotech 5800mah batteries. This is a good battery to reference as the dimensions are the largest battery you will be able to fit the rear battery bulkhead without modification. You will need to modify the front battery tray (cut off the end) to fit the battery. Again, this is running the battery lengthwise.

The Nanotech shorty lipo packs are probably the easiest solution and require no modification. You will need to make/purchase a B4 battery strap to run the length of the battery trays, whether the battery is situated lenthwise or horizontal.

Hobbyking also sells the IMAX B6 AC/DC charger. I have not used personally but did purchase for a friend who has not had any complaints. I know several folks on the board also use the charger without problems.

You will need a motor capacitor however the 47 microfarad are hard to find (even at Radioshack). Novak and others also sell motor capacitors. They are much smaller, black with a gray stripe as opposed to the blue with black capacitors that you might remember.

Good luck!

[GodSpeed]

Here is the instruction manual for building that car -- http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10_Classic/RC10_Classic_Kit/manual_RC10Classic_2013.pdf

Here is a list and prices of any parts you might need as you read through the manual -- http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0005p?&I=ASCD6001&P=Z

And here is a thread with a lot of questions from somebody who knew nothing (me) and tons of amazing answers while rebuilding a car similar to yours -- http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=34225

There's questions and answers about essentially rebuilding the entire car, transmission, electronics, batteries, transmitters, chargers, tires, paint....everything.

**Oh, and to post pictures, just highlight those links you posted and then click the Img button in the post creating screen....or add (img) before the link and (/img) after it, both with SQUARE brackets. That's what the button does.

[klavy69]

_**Oh, and to post pictures, just highlight those links you posted and then click the Img button in the post creating screen.

didn't even pay attention that you had already had them on photobucket. edited the pix to show what you were wanting to show...

Todd

[knucklebuster]

Links would be helpful

Battery: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17272__Turnigy_nano_tech_5800mah_2S2P_30_60C_Hardcase_Lipo_Pack_ROAR_APPROVED_.html

Once on the Hobbyking site, search Lipoly batteries. I might also suggest a similar battery, 5300mah, with higher C (discharge) rating. The 5800mah is great with 30-60C rating, the 5300mah with 50-100C is likely better. You race, you know more is always better Be sure to check the size of other batteries in reference to the size of the battery in the link as I am only looking at the C rating.

Charger: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__6478__IMAX_B6_AC_Charger_Discharger_1_6_Cells_GENUINE_.html

FYI If you hover over the item while viewing, Hobbyking may offer you a discounted price. I would also suggest buying multiple items at once as there shipping is relatively high. They still offer the best prices I have found.

[graybeard48]

Knucklebuster, GodSpeed and klavy69 Thank you for all the great info and informative links. I have a lot to learn. I remember just enough
to get me in all kinds on trouble. As for the batteries I think for now I'm going to go with Nihd. The reason being is the fire danger thing when charging. I can see my Grandson trying to charge them when I'm not around and possibly hurting himself or burning their house down (he is 9 today). The instruction manual is a life saver as will as the price sheet. I'll give the picture a shot Thursday after we get our battery at the local Hoddy Shop and see if this thing will run. Thanks again Graybeard48

[twinrider1]

...And here is a thread with a lot of questions from somebody who knew nothing (me) and tons of amazing answers while rebuilding a car similar to yours -- http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=34225

There's questions and answers about essentially rebuilding the entire car, transmission, electronics, batteries, transmitters, chargers, tires, paint....everything...

Thank you!

[Bottom Feeder]

Here is the instruction manual for building that car -- http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10_Classic/RC10_Classic_Kit/manual_RC10Classic_2013.pdf

Or for a more 'retro' feel which will also have the correct Stealth transmission instructions:

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10/CE/10ce92_manuala.pdf

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10/CE/10ce92_manualb.pdf

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10/CE/10ce92_manualc.pdf

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10/CE/10ce92_manuald.pdf

[Bottom Feeder]

As mentioned earlier, you do have some aftermarket parts on there, with that TALL front shock tower and 1.32 stroke (rear-sized) shocks being the most apparent. They are totally overkill but they will certainly work for a basher. Problem is one good hit or hard rollover and that tower will probably get broken off.

Yes, the chassis is not straight but you'd be amazed what a few minutes in a vise and some light muscle can do to a bent RC10 tub. It won't be perfect but you can get it pretty close. The extra holes are pointless but they don't look excessive so it's probably fine otherwise.

Looks like you have some Technacraft titanium tie rods in the front which is good stuff. Also looks like you may have aluminum steering bellcranks which is also good. Make sure you run a server saver if it doesn't have one already.

The toe-in in the rear looks wrong, or non-existent. Check to make sure that the rear hub carriers have not been swapped left to right. The rear arm mounts will give 1.5 degrees of toe-in and the hub carriers should give another 1.5 for a total of 3 degrees per side. If the carriers are swapped you'll end up with 0 toe-in which will make for squirrelly handling.

Personally, if all the electronics work and it's just the old batteries that are toast, I'd just buy a few of these and have at it. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJA83&P=0

Beyond that, nice find! That's the kind of stuff I love to buy and clean up. It's always interesting to see what former users have done to 'customize' and 'improve' their RC10s!