Eagle Gearbox Cases and Options

[dbs179]

Hi all,

I just got finished up restoring my RC10 Graphite and moved onto my Eagle (#1901). Overall it was in pretty good shape, but one of the rear A-Arm mounts that are molded into the Gearbox case was split. I ended up finding a Bullet case (Model Number 1610, Bag # 1681) new on E-Bay and picked it up to replace mine. The problem is, I decided to dye a bunch of parts since they were yellowed and dirty. I didn't realize the cases must be made of something different, because both of the cases (new and old) warped and didn't take the dye like normal nylon parts. I'm left with two cases that are pretty badly warped and can't find any others online to just buy another.

I'm going to try and re-heat them and get them straight, but if that fails what options do I have if any? Are their any other gearboxes that are readily available that I can build and drop in the Eagle? I wanted to go brush less anyway, so I figured I'd have to upgrade the gears in the stock trans to begin with. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave

[jwscab]

You can use later transmissions on the eagle with no problem. Ones that fit blue eagle rad2 bandit etc. These transmission use divorced rear arm mounts and you shouldn't need to drill any holes. Lots of options.

[GoMachV]

The plastic they used on the cases is different stuff. They did make some later cases in black plastic too. I don't think the later rad2/hawk2 etc will bolt up without drilling additional holes, but if you don't mind drilling holes they are a superior design.

[dbs179]

The plastic they used on the cases is different stuff. They did make some later cases in black plastic too. I don't think the later rad2/hawk2 etc will bolt up without drilling additional holes, but if you don't mind drilling holes they are a superior design.

So if I went with a complete hawk 2 gearbox, would it hold up to brushless, or is there a better option if I'm going that route? I don't mind drilling holes, my chassis is already pretty banged up and this is just going to be a basher.

[GoMachV]

I am not a brushless person but we tore up the idlers in the hawk2 just like the idlers in a stealth, it may handle the power but it's not going to be bulletproof imo. Maybe someone could chime in on the compatibility of the RPM trans case for the stampede etc. Looks like it's a chunky piece, full it with good gears and go?!

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/traxxas/Slash6.htm#gearbox

[dbs179]

I ended up finding one more original case from Sabula Tech. It came in two nights ago, so I'm almost done getting the Eagle back together. I'm just waiting on Long Rear Arms. Can wait to run this thing again!

[dbs179]

I ended up finding one more original case from Sabula Tech. It came in two nights ago, so I'm almost done getting the Eagle back together. I'm just waiting on Long Rear Arms. Can wait to run this thing again!

The new case ended up lasting less than one pack before the rear tie rod mount broke. I ended up changing out the gearbox totally and am waiting on some rustler steel gears to come in. The gearbox on this thing has been the biggest pain in the butt so far....

[TRX-1-3]

You might consider researching the Blue Eagle conversion and rolling with a three gear trans with slipper. If I recall the upgrade kit came with trans, rear bulkhead, motor plate(s), long rear arms / drive shafts, dished wheels, arm mounts.... All that stuff is compatible with some mods and more available. Totally understnd if you are keeping it real with the straight up Eagle though. Kinda sore about letting mine go bitd.

Excellent,

Mark

[dbs179]

You might consider researching the Blue Eagle conversion and rolling with a three gear trans with slipper. If I recall the upgrade kit came with trans, rear bulkhead, motor plate(s), long rear arms / drive shafts, dished wheels, arm mounts.... All that stuff is compatible with some mods and more available. Totally understnd if you are keeping it real with the straight up Eagle though. Kinda sore about letting mine go bitd.

Excellent,

Mark

Mark,

That is exactly the route I'm going. I just made the mistake of trying to use the old style slipper and the nylon gears with my brushless setup. The friction pegs didn't last more than one pack and the nylon top gear stripped out the groove that sits on the roll pin. I have steel rustler gears and the rustler planetary diff on the way. I've already upgraded the slipper to the more modern Rustler slipper too. So if this doesn't fix it I don't know what will.

Thanks,
Dave

[dbs179]

Got all of my parts in today. So far so good. Two packs run through the new gearbox with no issues at all. For anyone looking into this in the future, here are the parts I ended up with. I understand that if you have the Blue Eagle or Blue Eagle LS, this is a much easier process, but if you have the original Eagle (Model #1901) it was a bit of a pain for me.

Gearbox Halves - 1991
Top Shaft - 3793
Steel Top Gear - 3195
Steel Idler Gear - 3696
Planetary Diff with Steel Ring Gear - 2833X

For the Slipper I found the entire set up on eBay as a package it included:
Spur Gear Dust Cover with Rubber Plug (Part # 3792)
86 Tooth Spur Gear - 48 Pitch (Part # 4686)
One (1) 5x11x4mm Ball Bearing (Part # 5116)
19 Tooth Pinion Gear - 48 Pitch (Part # 2419)
25 Tooth Pinion Gear - 48 Pitch (Part # 4725)
Slipper Clutch Kit with Steel Disc, Friction Pads, Spring, Pin and Nut (Part # 5552X)
Aluminum Alloy Pressure Plate and Hub (Part # 5556)
Three (3) Cap Screws (Part # 2554)
Two (2) Button Head Machine Screws (Part # 2575 Partial)

Rear Bulk Head - 4192
Motor Plate - 2390
Motor Guard - 2389


It didn't bolt right up, I had to drill four holes for the gearbox, but other than that it fits in perfectly.

Thanks,
Dave