RC10th wrote:It's my understanding that stagger only works with a locked diff.
Very cool project! I look forward to following this one. I think a custom made front tower to run touring car shocks would be the go and less obtrusive.
In the rear yes, in the front no Some dirt and carpet oval guys use front stagger to free the car up in the corners, let's it rotate without turning the wheels as much and scrubs less corner speed. Combine front stagger and rear steer toe or offset slugs and its killer fast.
Look at the outside wheel diameter on that super mod pic vs the inside
My tire truer does angle cuts so I could indeed do that on the fronts. I have some large diameter front donuts in sitting in my tire box too. I'll play with that later on.
A few pics of the finished bumper and stiffener rails. The tubing was harder than I expected and had to be heated with a torch before going into the tubing bender. I'm trying to design everything to be easily replaced in the event of crash damage by having the parts bolt in place. I hope to get a lot more done over the next few days.
Looks awesome! Could we have more insight about the tools used to build the cage (method, type of torch, brazing material...)? I've been contemplating building an aluminum cage myself, but the tools are know-how behind it prevented me from doing so so far. These are copper tubes right? Strong enough to build a tuber chassis you think?
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Come and visit the stable
Asso_man! wrote:Looks awesome! Could we have more insight about the tools used to build the cage (method, type of torch, brazing material...)? I've been contemplating building an aluminum cage myself, but the tools are know-how behind it prevented me from doing so so far. These are copper tubes right? Strong enough to build a tuber chassis you think?
I'm using brass tubing as copper would be too soft and easily bent. The tubing is 5/32" diameter with a wall thickness of .014". You probably could build a entire tube chassis for an on road car but you would definitely need thicker material for off road. I'm not sure brass would be ideal for a whole chassis though as this stuff is really heavy even with a wall thickness of .014". I took a test piece and beat it with a hammer over a vise and while the tubing was pulverized the solder joints didn't break so it's strong enough for my purpose. I think aluminum would take an oxy/acetylene setup to weld but that would be the ideal material for your tube chassis. The aluminum would be actual welding where as I'm just soldering with the brass. I'll show you the tools used and some of the techniques when I go into the garage today. It's really easy stuff. You guys building rock crawlers and scale 4wd should be doing this already. If you can solder two wires together that you can do this as well.
This video sums it up pretty much. I'll shoot some photos of a part I'm building for you too later on today.
[youtube]vfSzrMB-aMw[/youtube]
Thanks man! I need to start cutting a body template out of cardboard so I can get an idea for the cage design. I think it might be tricky to make the cage where it won't interfere with battery removal and installation.
Working on the nose wing at the moment and kicking around ideas for the shape of the body. Going to bend up the roof of the cage tonight to get a feel for it. Will post some photos of the process.
I propped up one of the wings from my Losi slider to get a feel for the cage height. The slider wing is far too large so I'll probably cut my own using a wing kit.
Not sure if I'll stick with that rounded aluminum bumper yet. The bumper will only partially show through the nose piece and I was thinking a squared off one might look better. Lots of decisions to make.
Some dirt and carpet oval guys use front stagger to free the car up in the corners, let's it rotate without turning the wheels as much and scrubs less corner speed. Combine front stagger and rear steer toe or offset slugs and its killer fast.
Are you really 'Liquid" Lou?
