graphite chassis repair

Post by **scr8p** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 12:27 am

when i got my ebay beater a couple weeks ago, it has a composite craft nose plate mounted to the bottom of the chassis to support the cracked main chassis. skip ahead to 2 days ago. i won an auction with 2 chassis on ebay. both trailing arm chassis. the one chassis is an andy's, the other, i wasn't sure. the one i was unsure of had a nose plate mounted on it, and is full of holes. so, anyways, i decided to try and mount the c.c. noseplate on to this chassis. this is what i got so far. hopefully i'll have time this week after work to bond the 2 together. i'm also going to fill all of the misc. holes in the front, and redrill new ones later. i hope it works out, but if not, oh well. i tried.

Post by **scr8p** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 6:19 pm

last night after work, i got it bonded together. also, filled all of the screwed up holes. today after work, i got the bonding sanded down and finished up. just need to drill the new servo holes. i am very surprised how strong it is. i had my doubts whether it would work or not.

Post by **justinspeed79** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 8:35 pm

Wow, looks good. What did you use to bond them?

Post by **scr8p** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 8:44 pm

i used 3M Automix panel bonding adhesive. we use it at the shop, depending on the job, for replacing door skins, around the inner lip, before cripping the skin around, and 1/4 panels. 3M says it's just as strong as welding the panel on. we had a car come back, that we had put a 1/4 on before, and it was rear ended the same way again. the bonding did not let go at all. so, i guess they're right.

Post by **shodog** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:27 am

That looks like an excelent job of fixing your chassis

Post by **MelvinsArmy** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:30 am

Wow, now that's some impressive work.

Post by **Asso_man!** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 3:27 am

yep congratulations Scr8p, again an amazing repair job, it seems you can't consider trashing any RC10 part, well for me it would be a shame too

now, why don't you change your pseudo for Goldfingers

Post by **Dr. Robotnik** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 6:33 am

Wow

, yesterday when I saw the parts roughly cut together I was a little sceptical this would work but I kept my fingers crossed. Then today I checked the thread and was amazed

, that's an incredible repair, well done for saving a vintage part.

Post by **scr8p** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:22 pm

thanks guys. i definately have a hard time trowing stuff away, so to speak. i'm just glad it worked out. i got to figure out what i want to do with the finish on it. so that you can't see the repair.

Post by **scr8p** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 5:53 pm

ok. now i'm done with it. i sprayed some black basecoat on it, and a couple coats of lacquer clear. i then sanded it with some 1500 grit paper to get most of the imperfections out of it. there's still some in it, but i can live with them. then i went over it with some 3000 grit paper, and that was it. i didn't want it to shiny. over all, i think it turned out pretty good.

Post by **justinspeed79** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:45 pm

That is awsome scr8p! Very, very nice work!

Post by **knucklebuster** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 8:02 pm

Nice work scr8p... I can appreciate your squeezing every penny out of the $20 beater. Makes it that much nicer.

Post by **scr8p** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 8:12 pm

thanks guys. i'm definately please with how it turned out. now i got another chassis to build up. as if i didn't have enough already.

Post by **Asso_man!** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 3:53 am

it really looks like new and has a black anodized touch that is way cool, maybe the nicest repair job I've ever seen

Post by **Dr. Robotnik** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 7:13 am

Damn son, where'd you buy that sweet chassis, it looks awesome?

I am unbelievably impressed it looks so new. Thanks for the blow by blow tips and how to's its great to learn this stuff.

Thanks for sharing

Cheers

Ed

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