Orange Chassis RC10?

[Crsdawg]

Hi guys, first time poster here...tho have been lurking for a while. Anyway...I just picked up a RC10 buggy off "that auction site" and I'm not sure exactly what I got. In the past I ran an RC10t2 and since I've been getting back into the hobby I figured I try out a buggy. Well I got this car thinking it was a worked over gold pan with a painted chassis. I got it cheap and a beater would be perfect for me atm. Well it showed up today and when I started looking it over I'm sure it isn't.

The front of the car has a graphite (?) front piece and it has a black stealth tranny. Also the chassis paint looks to be either done at the factory or it was professionally done. It is bright orange, did Associated ever make an orange chassis? I did some searching and didn't find much mention of such a thing outside of a past ebay auction.

I can get some pics up if there is a need. Thanks for any info on this.

[RC10resto]

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=10291&hilit=powdercoated+chassis

[Crsdawg]

Interesting. Are these uncommon? I just wanted a buggy to beat around with, if these are scarce I'm not sure it's for me. I'll just worry about damaging it and it will sap all the fun out of driving it for me. It's dirty, and the 2 front A-arm mounts are cracked... but overall it's in good shape and the chassis is too outside some moderate scratches on the bottom.

Here's some pics (not sure why they are so terrible, I'm going to re-upload them):

[fredswain]

It looks like a bunch of random parts someone put together into an RC10 and then sold. There's nothing rare about it so don't get excited thinking you got something special. If you bought it to drive then don't worry about it and just have fun.

[flipwils11]

It looks like a bunch of random parts someone put together into an RC10 and then sold. There's nothing rare about it so don't get excited thinking you got something special. If you bought it to drive then don't worry about it and just have fun.

Well said.

[Crsdawg]

Yeah, I'm not thinking it's worth a ton of money or anything special...I think my initial post came off sounding that way. I was just surprised to see the neon factory paint job and Google didn't turn up much when I began to research it. I should have tried searching the forums here, but I've never been able to get any relevant results when I've used it in the past. So I gave up trying to use it. Anyway, I think that if I end up using this care I will find a different chassis for it.

I really just wanted an old school rc10 to play with, I had (think I still have it actually) a graphite chassis version back in the day that I picked up used and I never got it running. I have wanted another one since (My old graphite car had/has ridiculous bump steer that I never could get rid of...so I hung it on the wall).

I'm not sure this was a slapped together car done for a flip tho, the listing was so poorly labeled that it seemed like it was sold by a someone who knew nothing about RCs. The body was also nicely fitted with ancient velcro that looked like it had been on the car for over a decade. I really should have looked at the pics more closely tho, they were of poor quality, so it was difficult to read much from the listing, but the black 3 gear tranny is a dead giveaway that it was weird.

I had a request through pm to show the underside of the chassis, so here is a pic...the black marks are residue of something that comes off when you scratch it, otherwise it is pretty good.

[rcrob]

Yeah, I'm not thinking it's worth a ton of money or anything special...I think my initial post came off sounding that way. I was just surprised to see the neon factory paint job and Google didn't turn up much when I began to research it. I should have tried searching the forums here, but I've never been able to get any relevant results when I've used it in the past. So I gave up trying to use it. Anyway, I think that if I end up using this care I will find a different chassis for it.

I really just wanted an old school rc10 to play with, I had (think I still have it actually) a graphite chassis version back in the day that I picked up used and I never got it running. I have wanted another one since (My old graphite car had/has ridiculous bump steer that I never could get rid of...so I hung it on the wall).

I'm not sure this was a slapped together car done for a flip tho, the listing was so poorly labeled that it seemed like it was sold by a someone who knew nothing about RCs. The body was also nicely fitted with ancient velcro that looked like it had been on the car for over a decade. I really should have looked at the pics more closely tho, they were of poor quality, so it was difficult to read much from the listing, but the black 3 gear tranny is a dead giveaway that it was weird.

I had a request through pm to show the underside of the chassis, so here is a pic...the black marks are residue of something that comes off when you scratch it, otherwise it is pretty good.

As others said, it looks like a slapped together car from leftover pieces of several.
As the link supplied showed, orange wasn't one of the factory powder coating options, and even if it was it's missing the matching nose piece and motor plate. And considering the chipping on the inside, it might even have been painted.
Anybody can get anything powdercoated, they've been doing it for themselves for years. It doesn't increase its value.
Go ahead and run it and have fun.

[flipwils11]

As the link supplied showed, orange wasn't one of the factory powder coating options

Did you click on the same link the rest of us did?

[ASC6000]

hard to say without seeing them together but the op's "orange" chassis looks like AE's "red"
also note that the motor plates were not offered in any powdercoat colors
Now find a nose piece and fix that thing up.

[jwscab]

I would agree the 'red' could very well be that chassis. As it's used and already assembled, but not terribly abused, it would make a pretty sweet car rebuilt as is. But the value in the powdercoated AE chassis' is pretty much in the NIP realm. Otherwise, you can powdercoat any chassis pretty cheaply for the same affect.

just be careful with solvents on the powdercoating, some can actually melt it. particularly stuff like brake/carb cleaner.

the carbon nose plate is a neat option, and if you were to strip it down, and soak the plastic/fiberglass and steel parts in simple green or something like it, and replace anything broken or not 'right' it will be a nice runner/shelfer.

and with the carbon nose and red chassis, it will definitely not be run-of-the-mill. I would put a bumper/chassis protector on the front of it to keep damage on the nose to a minimum.

oh, and make sure you put that third screw in the nose plate, if it's not there, drill it and tap it, otherwise you will wear and bend the nose/chassis not to mention possibly shear the nose off at the steering bellcrank screws.

[Crsdawg]

Thanks for the tips, I'm still deciding what to do with this (I've got some stuff coming for it) but the first thing will be to clean everything up. I'm going to try a bath in warm soapy water first but the ancient servo tape that is on there is pretty tenacious. A move to something like simple green might do the trick. Has anyone had any luck with goo gone? I've used that as a cleaner in the past with good results. It isn't overly harsh, but wasn't sure if it would react poorly with the powder coat. I've also used a hair dryer to remove stickers/sticky things so I was thinking about giving that a try as well.

What about the white parts? I've ready peroxide will whiten them. Soapy water and a toothbrush first, then a peroxide bath?

[Percymon]

What about the white parts? I've ready peroxide will whiten them. Soapy water and a toothbrush first, then a peroxide bath?

Sounds about right - immerse the white parts in peroxide in a sealed container and leave ona window sill or outside in direct sunlight - you need the combination of the chemical and the UV light for best results. Rotate/shake the container couple times a day to ensure all parts get uv light.

[jwscab]

just simple green on the white parts. after a soak and clean, if they are super yellow, then you can use a peroxide bath. I don't totally agree on the 'minty white' look since they weren't really that white out of the box.

wd40 and a paper towel should help get the servo tape off, without damaging the powdercoat. takes a little elbow grease but the oil works the sticky off pretty well. goo gone or goof off should work, just not sure on the powdercoat damage so use caution.

[badhoopty]

i little heat with a hair dryer or heat gun can also help with getting off stubborn sticky stuff.

[Crsdawg]

Great info, thanks. Hopefully I"ll have some time next week to start working on this.