** What's Old is New Tech Thread **

[Mrhistory]

Hi Guys. Im a new member and recently bought a few rc10s to setup for racing at my local track (Island Raceway & Hobby in Long Island, NY).

After restoring many old pan cars I am looking forward to the rc10s. I have a black pan worlds car and a gold pan car.

Now that big bore shocks are the norm I would like to know if anyone has run the current B4.2 BB shocks and if they will be helpful for running the car on modern courses with big jumps and technical triple double jump sections.

Thanks

[farmer]

Hi Guys. Im a new member and recently bought a few rc10s to setup for racing at my local track (Island Raceway & Hobby in Long Island, NY).

After restoring many old pan cars I am looking forward to the rc10s. I have a black pan worlds car and a gold pan car.

Now that big bore shocks are the norm I would like to know if anyone has run the current B4.2 BB shocks and if they will be helpful for running the car on modern courses with big jumps and technical triple double jump sections.

Thanks

i dont run the new BB shocks
not saying they would not help
but on my runner i do all the big stuff and triples and the stock AE shocks dont flinch
you just have to make sure that the are built rite
the big bore really don't do anything different than a standard bore
other than allow a larger oil cap
which allows for less oil emulsification i dont know if thats the correct
term to use
they just dont let the oil breakdown as fast
have fun and dont be afraid to do the big stuff
thx
farmer

[JK Racing]

I used the TLR big bores for a while on my Goldie. They have a different feel than standard bore shocks, the car felt more "calm", the best I can describe it. I have a set of big bores on the way, just havent decided if they will be on the B4 or the Goldie. I like the way my B4 feels right now with standard shocks/big bore springs. If they end up on the B4, the big bore springs WILL go onto the Goldie no matter what.

[alien3t]

One i didnt see was Stock rear worlds arms.

Want to stay with Worlds arms, run B4 rear wheels. (pin no hex).

so don't know which Hub, and Cvd kit to use with arms? Lot of info. just a lot of INFO.

[JK Racing]

One i didnt see was Stock rear worlds arms.

Want to stay with Worlds arms, run B4 rear wheels. (pin no hex).

so don't know which Hub, and Cvd kit to use with arms? Lot of info. just a lot of INFO.

Stock Parts:

Stock front/rear arm mounts
Used Worlds arms front/rear
Servo Mounts
6 gear transmission
Front carriers/inline steering knuckles & alloy axles
B4 RTR rear axles/dogbones
B4 wheels
Original 6 gear tranny Gear cover
Losi white ball cups
antenna mount

Modified/aftermarket parts:

Gold A Stamp, powder coated semi gloss black
Front nose tubes/rear wing tubes polished
CE rear bulkhead cut to imitate a Worlds
Cut battery cup
B4 RTR shocks (blue stripped off & polished)
Modified B4 rear hub carriers (inner bearing machined deep & hinge pin hole opened up)
Atlas Front/Rear CF towers
Losi alloy steering
unknown old Titanium turnbuckles (help? old Lundsford)

Electronics:

Mamba Max Pro Brushless Speed Control
Blue Bird 705mg short servo
Spektrum Receiver
Losi 17.5 brushless motor

Another option is B44 rear CVAs, Stock RC10 rear arms & mounts, B4 rear carriers **hingle pin hole drilled to 1/8"**

[Orange]

The things I have noticed about the Big Bores is that they give a more plush feel and landing off jumps is better. Car doesn't seem to bottom out as easy... Also through rutty portions of tracks, the car doesn't want to dance around as much and is much more stable. These are just some things I can tell so far.

Not saying the older shocks are bad... You can do all the things you want with the old shocks, they can handle it. Just there are certain characteristic differences between the two.

[Y'ernat Al]

The things I have noticed about the Big Bores is that they give a more plush feel and landing off jumps is better. Car doesn't seem to bottom out as easy... Also through rutty portions of tracks, the car doesn't want to dance around as much and is much more stable. These are just some things I can tell so far.

Not saying the older shocks are bad... You can do all the things you want with the old shocks, they can handle it. Just there are certain characteristic differences between the two.

Sean, Have you tried just the big bore springs on the V2 shocks? Because the piston arguably 50% of the picture, if that. The spring alone is the other 50%, and arguably more. I noticed a change a long time ago when I started putting the sl bigger Losi springs on Team Car shocks. The fact the AE springs rubbed the anodizing off the outside of the shock body always rubbed me the wrong way .

love the BB springs because they are all an even 0.1lb apart now. Makes sense finally. But it could be a while before I pay $100.00 just to add 16 grams (4 grams per) to my car. If you get 'em for free fine. But for the rest of us...

[Orange]

The things I have noticed about the Big Bores is that they give a more plush feel and landing off jumps is better. Car doesn't seem to bottom out as easy... Also through rutty portions of tracks, the car doesn't want to dance around as much and is much more stable. These are just some things I can tell so far.

Not saying the older shocks are bad... You can do all the things you want with the old shocks, they can handle it. Just there are certain characteristic differences between the two.

Sean, Have you tried just the big bore springs on the V2 shocks? Because the piston arguably 50% of the picture, if that. The spring alone is the other 50%, and arguably more. I noticed a change a long time ago when I started putting the sl bigger Losi springs on Team Car shocks. The fact the AE springs rubbed the anodizing off the outside of the shock body always rubbed me the wrong way .

love the BB springs because they are all an even 0.1lb apart now. Makes sense finally. But it could be a while before I pay $100.00 just to add 16 grams (4 grams per) to my car. If you get 'em for free fine. But for the rest of us...

Sorry I just now saw this... I'll say this... The V2 shock IMO, is/was the worst shock ever made. Also IMO, the Kyosho velvets in small or big bore, are still the best. So no, I have never tried BB springs on V2's. I built a set once, I had to build them with Kyosho O-rings and springs to make them work right which just seemed silly to me. They never made it onto a car I drove on a track. I will say this about the Velvet coated shocks... when i go to a club race locally and see a big name and very popular driver of the vintage crowd running a B4 with Kyosho shocks, that tells me a lot. (This was before AE BB's came out).

They are pricey and I understand a racers budget. But small bores with BB springs only help for jumping. Big bores are superior for everything else and I think the added weight also has something to do with that. I really don't understand the problem with weight as much these days unless you are still running brushed motors... Brushless motors have so much more torque that car weight, unless its just out of hand heavy, is not as much of a problem as it used to be. Just my thoughts.

[Y'ernat Al]

Well said. Thanks!

[RC10th]

I just built a set of big bores and they aren't as smooth as I was hoping. They look killer but aren't very refined in my opinion. They are definately a step in the right direction though. Hopefully when I run them and they bed in they will smooth out and work killer, they feel "strange" compared to the standard team shocks . The amount of springs they offer is crazy, I liked the "old" spring system better.

Personally the metric BB thing on an imperial car seems funny to me, kind of like an afterthought.

[Y'ernat Al]

Sean wrote the long version, and he's right (from an obvious Kyosho Team rider angle ). But comparing small bore to small bore the whole key is the little area where the shaft meets the body. That's where the motion is. I have too many small bore's to go big yet. A while ago I started investing in these.

http://stores.factoryone-rc.com/-strse-1/FactoryOne-AE-V1-fdsh-V2-Ultra/Detail.bok

I even figured out how to get them into a bottom loader.

[joel45acp]

oops, double post. sorry.

[Orange]

You have to take a little time with the orings and bushings on the big bores. I take all the plastic bushings that go with the red orings and dump them all in the little baggy the orings come in... then I squish some green slime into the bag with them and makes sure some gets all over everything... Then I put the shaft together with the right amount of limiters and the piston attached and put it in the shock case. Then I add all the orings and washers in the order they go onto the shaft and use the baggy to slide them up into position and screw the cap on. (Makes sense I hope) In other words, the red orings never get touched.

I think this helps with 2 things. If you install the orings with green slime the normal way, two things occur, the first is that you are almost for sure going to put too much green slime on them. The next is that the inside of the body where that stuff goes has inconsistent annodising. Adding to the over sliming and the tighter space sometimes the green slime will get trapped in places and squeeze the oring inwards. then when you push the threaded part of the shaft through that, you are almost guarenteed to either tear the oring, or cause binding between the two, or both. So that is why I build them the way I mentioned above. You get a nice little consistent film of the Green slime on the parts and you are pushing the threaded part of the shaft through the orings that do not have any pressure on them. I learned this from building the Kyosho shocks which are similar to the oring system currently used on the AE big bores AND I have noticed that since I started building them this way, the shocks were ten times more consistent from one to the other. Before I would almost always have one that just didn't feel as smooth as the others... That rarely happens to me anymore.

If you use shock oil to build shocks, the best thing to use is thick shock oil... But you can still trap shock oil into places that will deform the oring inside the body, so the same technique would help

The AE big bore shock is a good shock. So far I have not had any complaints about them... I seem to be able to go a little longer before orings need to be replaced, but I may change them because I'm just used to doing it every 2-3 weeks or so.

For the record, these bushing kits are awesome!! http://www.factoryone-rc.com/

[ericsp2]

Few questions for the build im starting..

Are the truck and buggy chassis that different?

I see poeple want the buggy width to be at roar maximum. i know the wider track is better in the rough. .
Couldnt ypu just have the klien arms made wider to reach maximum width with a certain wheel setup and give it better handling in the rough?

[zleader]

I think the only difference between the buggy and the truck is the nose plate and depending on the stamping is drilled for the stealth tranny. I could be wrong as I am starting w woin buggy. Just collecting global parts off ebay.