Regular Nylon is what we are using. I agree some vent holes are needed but the guy wanted to try without them first. A real quick .0005 pass with a ball nose endmill would probably provide the relief needed. We will see in the next couple weeks
For the size shot we need, I am certain the 20 ton press should fill the mold but then again who knows. The press has the capability to melt the nylon but by nature of plastics, nylon is one of the toughest to push and fill a mold. Only time will tell.
This is a great thread... I commend your ambition. You will need some vent/riser locations (probably several) to get material out. Air has to escape the die as material enters, and you need to make sure the plastic flows at the critical areas so you get the spec material properties. You will also need to worry about ejecting the part after it molds. A production die would have slightly angled/drafted surfaces, and ejector pins. You may be OK with a one shot die. You can pick up any AE or other RC part, and you can find where the ejectors and vents are located. Sounds like the guy you are working with has some experience. As they say, one test is worth 1000 expert opinions. Ever thought about making a mold to replicate rear arm mounts?
Thanks for the suggestions. The mold is not going into an automatic machine which I doubt I could design the mold for one of those machines having no experience. I still need to do a bit of work to the molds polishing out the tool marks and also putting a slight taper on the part edges so I get a decent release.
Lets hope for the best, if it doesn't work out I will go back to the drawing board on this one.
bigjeepzz wrote:Got a ton of work done last week. As I stated earlier the chassis and top brace was cut from 1/8 kydex so I could have something to build the car as I go. I also drew up the front shock tower and cut it from the kydex as well.
I started machining the molds for the arms and ran into several problems. I eventually figured it out and was able to get the molds done. I am very experienced with casting but injection molding is a bit new to me. I still need to polish the inside of the molds but I should have them ready to send out in the next few days. The guy doing the molding for me is using a 20 ton press to inject the arms and we are still not sure his machine can handle the volume of nylon 6 I need, we will see. I did not put any vents in the mold and the guy told me he wants to try it without the vents first. If that does not work he is going to machine the vents in the mold for me.
I am placing another material order today so I can machine the front bulkhead and rear castor blocks. From there it will be putting the car together and making changes to the final drawings, then cutting the material for the final car.
As I get more done, I will be sure to take pics.
Jake
Uhmm!.... Maybe I should talk to my doctor about this, but is it ok to be sporting wood after seeing these images????
Is your injection molding technique using hot melted nylon or are you using a "cold" material that approximates the characteristics of nylon? If it is going to be hot, did you enlarge the molds a few percent to account for the material shrinking as it cools?
Sorry no updates on this one yet. Polishing the molds is a very tedious process.
To answer your questions about the mold, yes these are being molded with melted nylon pellets. I have done quite a bit of research and I know about the shrinkage on molding. I did not machine the parts ony larger and this is probably going to be more of a true test of can it be done.
I am experienced in mold making but not injection molds. This is my first go with injection molding and I totally expect utter failure. If it turns out ok, it is a bonus. The only thing holding me up right now is getting rid of the tooling marks.
As soon as I get some new progress I will be sure to post.
Guys this project stalled once again due to me being in Korea. I will pick it back up when I get back to the states. I purchased a CNC so I won't have to travel to my dads house to cut the parts.
I was unable to get my molds sent out because I was having issues polishing out the tooling marks. I got the rear arm mold ready but the front mold has some really tight corners I could not get into. It is going to be critical that i get the molds smooth, or we may not be able to get the parts out.
This car is going to happen, I am just on the same timeline as Scr8p right now...
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
Was just browsing through an RCCA scan and spotted this pic of Cliff Lett showing off the Stealth car and thought it would be ironic to post it in this replica thread since he's was pointing to a No Copies decal.
I also thought it was pretty interesting that the body on the Stealth car is not sporting a Masami paint job.
First of all I would like to warmly thank Jake and Nikki for their awesome research and very dedicated work and telented craftmanship that made this (and many others) build thread possible. Like mentioned earlier, you guys are costing...
Last post
That race was awesome where Kyle Reed took the win from Masami.
Didn't see a thread started on this yet. Thanks to Andrew Cooke of Grand Prix 3D for making this dream build possible.
Pic borrowed from his Facebook page.
Last post
...oh interesting!
I have a B2 gearbox that I've used to therefore make at least a 'B2 compatible 2.4:1' casing! ;-)
This has the slightly larger diff gear than the original stealth, but smaller than the 2.6:1 type, and yes the bigger idler and...
Highlights:
-Custom graphite chassis with 3 forward and 4 rear battery slots.
-MIP SP1 transmission
-Andy's suspension arms (3 white + 1 black :!: )
-Yoke shocks in the rear...
Last post
Found some more pics on The Hirosaka R/C Legends site:
Looks like a different version of the car...chassis is narrower, all 4 arms are white, wheels and wings are changed, and it's got a Yoke under tray. The couple of body on pics don't show...
Hyeong, what's the difference in height of the two rear bulkheads?
Dual told me the difference is 2mm. he get me the original bulkhead too but i didn't measure it myself yet but it looks pretty much 2mm to me :mrgreen:
I posted this rc10 before when I got it. It's a 1989 RC10 Graphite. I've since got some new parts for it including a new bodyset which I painted in Masami's colors. I also had decals copied.
So what's so special about this one, I am sure you ask?...
Last post
Thanks Daddeo! It is cool!!
blown5.0, thanks also! Bidding starts at $XXX! hahaha! :lol:
Big thanks to Hyung, DerbyDan, Cedric, Jeff, Asa, Lee, Peakey, Masami and everyone who helped!
I had a real headache sorting out the front and rear pitch belts/diffs/TCS, initially I was going for M2 up front and M3 to rear but then Dan and I...
Last post
Hey number 7 unfortunately Dan passed away a couple of years ago. There are some pretty knowledgeable yokomo guys on here so I’m sure someone will be able to help you out
Wow, I am sorry to hear that and my apologies if contacting him was...