Blinkinger! - Earliest Edinger by Original Owner out of ....

[Y'ernat Al]

Y'ernat Al, fantastic work up for a 6 gear shortie. I need to get down the SDRC and run some laps with you.

Copy that! I paid for a membership at that place just a few weeks back, and now that I've brought myself up to speed on closed cell foam (a lot of new stuff to wrap my head around) I'm good to go.

[JK Racing]

I have bought closed cell foam...but still in the dark about it

You gonna take both the short arm and the super long arm car to see which one you like best? (to the track)

[Charlie don't surf]

Closed cell has good and bad points in 1/10th- it's way more consistant as a "dampner" though- every track and setup seems to either favor it or cast it aside. If your "compounding" your tires with a traction additive though it's a must.

[JK Racing]

thanks for "compounding" the confusion....

most tracks around me run AKA red CC inserts rear, still a mix on what to do up front. I am going all in and getting them for front/rear.

[Y'ernat Al]

..You gonna take both the short arm and the super long arm car to see which one you like best? (to the track)

Just the Blinkinger for now. I can only deal with one at a time.

Closed cell has good and bad points in 1/10th- it's way more consistant as a "dampner" though- every track and setup seems to either favor it or cast it aside. If your "compounding" your tires with a traction additive though it's a must.

You meen consistent as a damper Reg? Yeah. Consistency is what I'm after. No additives for me thanks. I go au naturale.

thanks for "compounding" the confusion....

most tracks around me run AKA red CC inserts rear, still a mix on what to do up front. I am going all in and getting them for front/rear.

I got the same info JK. What I heard is that a lot of guys were taking the 1/8 red aka's and cutting them down and regluing them to fit in a 1/10 buggy rear, and they worked so awesome, that aka finally got the memo and started making them. The advantage I like is that they will last way longer, even multiple tires, unlike the open cell foams which will break down real quick under the pressures of the hi-bite clay tracks. The do have to be broken-in tho. And in the front, I heard the same..just personal preference.

Of coarse, this is all hearsay, pit chatter. I'm a scientist by trade so I'll have run my independent double blind taste tests anyway.

[JK Racing]

I'm a scientist by trade so I'll have run my independent double blind taste tests anyway.

Sheldon? Is that you?

I use my gut...to rest a soda on when I am sitting of course...while I eyeball engineer another buggy to race spec. I have some broken in AKA rear foams I am going to steal from my 22 for the rear of my 10 & just stuff the fronts full of standard foam for this weekend.

[Charlie don't surf]

Yep dampener

If you have a really really high traction surface and are using soft or super soft tires with or without additive then you want to try CC- (tire holds shape better everywhere), less deflection- fronts other than 4wd as a rule have not worked well unless you are looking for understeer. (Most traction compounds contain up to 99% petrolum and destroy the structure of the foam and swell the rubber) The CC foam is not imune, but not effected as much-

High to medium traction with a groove and a clay compound tire seem to produce undesireable result, until the track grooves black anyway- but clay compound tires are stiff
anyway and still too stiff overall with CC in my opinion- I generally would use a stiff Panther insert, or a 2 stage proline or most commonly a Jcon And-1 insert.

Medium to low, forget it unless your drifting or running ice spikes

[JK Racing]

Hot Rod Hobbies is a high bite blue groove. I have panther rattlers soft & bobcats med and trying the new Duratrax Persuader tires, C3 rear and C2 front (the C3 is very soft) I will save those for after the sun goes down, the track cools and looses some traction, a softer rear tire should be better.

When I run indoor clay, I have 2 sets of tires, JC Gold Barcodes & Proline MC Suburb/Scrubs. The Proline have AKA red in the rear and 1/2 rear standard foam in front (narrow wheels, feels really good). The JCs were mounted up before CC foam was out (publicly). The JC fronts make any car I try them on push like a dump truck, the foam is toast. When I head down to SDRC, I will have my Proline's with me. By far the best feel on the track of any tire combos I have tried.

FYI, I never use traction compound, anywhere. I am just too "old school" I guess

When is the maiden re-voyage of the Blinkinger?

[slotcarrod]

What ever happened to good old loam tracks?

The new tracks seem to be Touring Car with jumps! Lazy track crew or clubs is all it boils down to!

[DerbyDan]

So great that you are going to run this old beast again - can't wait to hear how you get on with it.... I think it was my old racer I would be wary of running it again & damaging it - but then when its your own car somehow it doesn't seem so precious... I still have my 4th racer (A Mardave Cobra) & despite having won many races with it & it holds a special place on my shelf - I wouldn't hesitate to run it again!

Yep dampener

About ten years ago my sponsor (Modeltech UK) played around with dampers for a touring car which used discs of Closed Cell Foam in place of the traditional oil & piston + spring set-up - so it acted both as a damper & spring as one! We tried different densities of foam to achieve different levels of damping & springing - even combining muiltiple disks of different rates.

It kinda worked on the touring car where the suspension doesn't move too much but the set-up wouldn't transfer to an off-road buggy due to the travel required. I think the main problem with it though was that the damping effect is directly related to the springing where as on an oil damper you have the ability to change either effect independantly.

[Seabass]

Good to see you are still working on this one. Those parts look great on the other car too.

Jake

[CUDDZILLA]

I noticed in this image
That you've "pinned" the diff. Is there ANY chance you could either explain exactly what you did or take a pic of the inside(side facing the spur gear)?
I "pinned" one years ago but used a different method than what your picture shows. It required the "notched" diff rings.
What an incredible thread! Thanks so much for sharing!!!

[slotcarrod]

You just drill and tap for a set screw (4-40 I think) and then grind a notch in your diff rings! Measure twice, cut once! Use Locktite on the set screw and don't put it in too far that it rubs against the spur, it should be flush with the diff ring!

[CUDDZILLA]

You just drill and tap for a set screw (4-40 I think) and then grind a notch in your diff rings! Measure twice, cut once! Use Locktite on the set screw and don't put it in too far that it rubs against the spur, it should be flush with the diff ring!

Thank you. When we did ours, years ago...we drilled and then just CA'd a short piece of .125" brass round stock into the hole and filed off whatever was too long. Did that on both sides of the diff. I'm debating whether to do this(pin it with a set screw) to my current dirt oval racer.

Thanks again!

[Y'ernat Al]

Bud's actually still sells the 2110 pre-notched rings too....

http://brpracing.com/brp_hub.html

They can be even cheaper on ebay as NOS.

This photo doesn't show it (yet) but the other thing to do is file down the back side of the 5-40 nut to make it lower profile (so the nylon lock grabs the threads asap). Then you can be in a better position to keep the diff as loose as you like and still have it stay put.

Does anyone know what kind of spring I have (with the squared off coils)? I just found it, who knows from where, and it works pretty well, but I'm unfamiliar with it and it's a "what is it" thread item as far as I'm concerned.