I am working on a project runner made of used and new parts...
The nose plate was damaged with the threads all stripped so the front plate does not hold without using a nut to hold the screws that go through the servo saver (see #1 on the picture). The end result is that the servo saver is higher than it should be and the tie-rod end is touching the ball on the shock tower (#2 on picture). So I can't mount the upper link properly.
Now I'm thinking of mounting a shorter upper link as shown on #3 and using the other holes on the tower....
The question is... What would be the effect of that? I'm not racing or anything... Will I notice a change or not? should I use the top or bottom one?
Thanks
Attachments
Problem tie rod.jpg (151.76 KiB) Viewed 1022 times
Problem tie rod.jpg (151.76 KiB) Viewed 1022 times
The shorter upper link raises the front roll centre, so the front end doesn't generate as much grip. Gives a litle bit more turn in at the beginning of the corner but less grip through the corner. Using the upper of the two holes will give less grip overall than the lower one.
Alternatively you could just buy the MIP ballraced steering upgrade from Tower which includes posts that attach the nose plate to the chassis without using the threads in the nose.
AYKBOBCAT wrote:So those screws seems smaller than stock. How do they hold the nose plate in place?
The alloy sleeves are spacers, and fit into the #8 holes with a little step. The 4-40 screws and nyloc nuts clamp it all together. Not a bad setup, and is the fix for a stripped noseplate.
I am building a team car and would like to know if anyone knows the part numbers to use the modern factory team tie rods. There is so many, i dont want to waist money trying. Has anyone used these?
Last post
The camber links, front and rear, are 1.75 (#1404), and the steering rods are 2 (#1406).
I'm looking for upgraded OG turnbuckles/tie rods for an original Composite Craft Predator Lynx (First Gen, not the TRC/CC Lynx2) but I don't know the exact lengths needed. I know...I know....if I have the car, just measure'em or remember'em :D Thing...
I'm considering some mods to hop up my Turbo Optima. Some of the things I've been looking into, researching fitment primarily by size, are the upper rods and tie rods. I've seen some nice anodized alloy rods made by 3rd-party manufacturers that...
Last post
why bother with those? just get some lunsford tie rods and ends. less slop that way!!
Got a link to something specific in the appropriate sizes? :?
I am working on getting a short-arm RC10 going again and I need tie-rods. Where are you getting yours? I can't seem to find anything that is not ridiculously over priced.
Thanks.
Last post
On a couple of builds I've used Secraft stainless steel tie rods.
They are cheap and have a pretty cool retro vibe.
Both 4-40 and m3
So with my new 8.4V Humpcell battery, its too big to fit with the old battery holders so I had to make a temporary one with some spare parts lying around. But its not ideal as it doesn't hold it very securely. So I was wondering what else is...
Last post
well anything you can bolt flat on the chassis you can slide the velcro strap under. I would start maybe with the old battery hold down bars one on each side with the velcro going underneath it
Would I be able to use B4 tierods on an RC10 with the widened front world's RC10 Old is New build??
any help and/or suggestions are greatly appreciated... :D
Last post
when you build your car, mock it up with either threaded rod or used turnbuckles, and the ball cups you intend to use. measure the length, then buy what you need.