Kyosho Outrage MKII Buggy

[demonic_crow]

Hi, I'm new and I happen to come across a Kyosho Outrage MKII buggy for pretty much free. I didn't have no problem getting it to run. All I had to do was solder the motor wire to the connector and buy a transmitter/receiver for it, plus alot of cleaning . I know it need all new shocks for it and I'm sure lots of other. I would really appreciated everyone help on getting parts and what I can update. I found it to be hard to come across parts for it and not really to sure what will work. Thanks everyone.

[Coelacanth]

I never really had a chance to look at one of those up close, thanks for the pics. Looks just like an Optima rear gear setup happening there. Even the rear arms look like Turbo Optima arms. For starters, unless you're planning to do a vintage shelf-queen rebuild, I'd yard out the manual speed controller/servo and install an inexpensive ESC. It'll reduce the weight and be much more reliable/better performing. Good luck with your rebuild!

[vwjuice]

The outrage shares parts with the ultima. An esc will help a lot but you can use ultima parts to really make it perform better. The stock shock towers are the worst part on the car in my opinion. They have so much flex in and they feel very inconsistent on a track but the whole car is extremely durable. If you just want to bash it then rebuild the shocks and install an esc and you'll be good to go. If you want to do some club racing than look on eBay for ultima 48p gear conversion kit and ultima shock towers. That would wake the buggy up a lot.

[Coelacanth]

It looks like those cheap plastic front/rear camber links could easily by replaced with some alloy or titanium turnbuckles and 4.8mm ball studs & cups, too.

[RichieRich]

You can install nearly all period Ultima hop-ups on the Outrage. If you wanted, you could build quite a capable racer with that chassis. It still will be a little flexy due to the Kelron chassis, but it should work good enough.

[demonic_crow]

Won't be a shelf queen until I get something else later down the line. So in that case I am planing on putting an ESC in it. I had my eye on the EZRUN 60a but hobbypartz been out of them for the past week. I really want to replace the arms with titanium turnbuckles but didn't know what length and all I would have to get. I will have to get all new shock since the shaft does have some nicks in them and I notice they don't decompress at all, but the o-rings aren't damaged so thats a good thing. I also have to get new tires cause the ones I have right now are not on all the way. Not sure if the owner before didn't gue them on right or what, plus I would like to get away from the pink rims lol. I appreciate all the help from you guys. I looked at alot of cars on here and you guys do some amazing work.

[vwjuice]

I forgot about the turnbucks. My daughter races her outrage. If you read thru some of the ultima builds you'll see what's needed to mount newer wheels and tires on it. Once you have those you'll have the needed traction. The stock tires are a joke. They aren't really good for anything.

[demonic_crow]

Would you say this be a good place for me to get some parts from since they have alot of different Ultima model parts?

http://www.infernosonly.com/

[demonic_crow]

Thought I would share a few more pictures for you guys that haven't really seen one of these. The first pic is when I took it completely apart to clean everything up. The second is the transmission.

[Coelacanth]

I really want to replace the arms with titanium turnbuckles but didn't know what length and all I would have to get.

Measure your existing turnbuckles from the center of each cup or ball-end to the opposite center, and I'll be able to give you a pretty close estimate of what sizes you'll need to look for.

[demonic_crow]

60mm and 45mm for the front if I'm able to replace both of them?

edit: If I'm planning on changing the suspension arms wouldn't that affect what I get also.

[Coelacanth]

60mm and 45mm for the front if I'm able to replace both of them?

edit: If I'm planning on changing the suspension arms wouldn't that affect what I get also.

If the arms you're replacing will be a different length, certainly. But at least this gives you a good starting point. If the arms are 66mm and the camber turnbuckles are 45mm, and you go with arms that are 72mm, then you'll probably need 51mm turnbuckles...just as an example. Turnbuckles can be adjusted lengthwise +/- 5 to 10mm so as long as you're in the neighborhood, it's all good.

Let's forget about your tie rod ends (steering linkage) for now, and only focus on the front & rear camber links. Are those 60 and 45 mm long?

[demonic_crow]

Front are 45mm and the back are about 50mm, didnt take the back off to see though. They are only being held in with screw though and I'm seeing ball stud for turnbuckle. Will it work with the stud or do I need to do something to make it so?

[Coelacanth]

The reason why I didn't mention tie-rod replacement is due to my experience with doing that swap on an Optima--the frame holes in the front sideplates didn't quite give enough clearance for 4.8mm balls & cups to move freely without binding--without some modification of the ball studs. The camber links are easy to swap with no need for mods. This pic gives a general idea, though this car has short control arms and a tiny camber link turnbuckle for on-road driving.

[scr8p]

one of my lhs's has one of these assembled NIB. well, it was there the last time i was anyway. probably 2 years ago by now....