FERRETTIs A&L nearly but not quite

General discussion, builds/restorations, etc...

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shodog
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Post by shodog »

I think those wheels would look sick with painted centers to match what ever color you go on the body

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Synergy
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Post by Synergy »

I thought about that Sho and I think you are correct but my painting and masking skills are not up to it :(
Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.

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Dr. Robotnik
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Post by Dr. Robotnik »

Looking great mate, reminds me of mine :D

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shodog
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Post by shodog »

FERRETTI wrote:I thought about that Sho and I think you are correct but my painting and masking skills are not up to it :(
It's actually so easy, you will kick yourself for not doing it sooner. here are a set of mine that I painted with tamiya clear orange paint

Image

First, polish the lip of the wheel. then mask most of the lip off. you don't hav eto worry about the area where dimples are. Spray your paint, then take the masking tape off and use laquer thinner on a Q-tip to remove the paint from the dimpled area.

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Dr. Robotnik
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Post by Dr. Robotnik »

Hi shodog, great tips as always and thanks for your reply to my pictures question on TC. Does lacquer thinner react with anodizing would you know? I would like to remove some paint from anodized parts you see and need to work out the product to use.

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Synergy
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Post by Synergy »

Yes Shodog I saw those ones and did think they looked totally stunning. I might give it a go but one of the other problems I have is no airbrush set up.
Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.

Here's my TC Showroom
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=18028

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shodog
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Post by shodog »

Ferretti, Tamiya makes the clear paint in rattle cans now.

Dr.- I have not encountered laquer thinner harming the annodizing but it will melt quite a few types of plastic.

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Synergy
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Post by Synergy »

shodog wrote:Ferretti, Tamiya makes the clear paint in rattle cans now.
However can you get a flat enough application from a can :?:
Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.

Here's my TC Showroom
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=18028

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shodog
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Post by shodog »

FERRETTI wrote:

However can you get a flat enough application from a can :?:
what do you mean by flat?

Flat as in non shiny or flat as in a smooth even coat of paint?

the clear spray in the rattle can is what I used for both of these wheels and it looks fantastic.

Image


Image

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Synergy
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Post by Synergy »

Well if that's a rattle can finish it's good enough for me. In the UK flat usually refers to smoothness, sorry Sho I should have been a little clearer.
Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.

Here's my TC Showroom
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=18028

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templeofspeed
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Post by templeofspeed »

FERRETTI wrote:Well if that's a rattle can finish it's good enough for me. In the UK flat usually refers to smoothness, sorry Sho I should have been a little clearer.
Well, you chaps also tend to lay down some unbelieveable brush paint jobs... I know what you meant by flat (thinned to eliminate brush strokes). Not matte. :lol:

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Dr. Robotnik
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Post by Dr. Robotnik »

Cheers shodog I'll look into that :-)

Image

By the way Ferretti I noticed you mounted your nose plate under the chassis, was there any reason for that? I mounted mine with the plate on top for no particular reason.

Image

I was wondering does anyone know what the correct set up is, if there is one? The chassis is countersunk and so is the nose plate so that's what confused me when I was assembling my car.

Cheers 8)

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Asso_man!
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Post by Asso_man! »

I guess Ferretti mounted it under the chassis because he used a composite craft nose plate that is totally flat and had most probably problems with mounting the steering rack without any binding/scratching. If you use the standard aluminium nose plate, mount it on the top of the chassis, like on a gold tub...
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Dr. Robotnik
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Post by Dr. Robotnik »

Asso_man! wrote:I guess Ferretti mounted it under the chassis because he used a composite craft nose plate that is totally flat and had most probably problems with mounting the steering rack without any binding/scratching. If you use the standard aluminium nose plate, mount it on the top of the chassis, like on a gold tub...
I think I know what you mean. Like the proper RC10 nose plate has a kink where it joins the chassis right? I think Ferretti has used the same nose plate as me and generally the cars are very similar and I didn't seem to have any binding problems....

Speak up Ferretti, I need to know 8)

This thread makes me really want to finish mine first!!! :lol:

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Synergy
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Post by Synergy »

Dr. Robotnik wrote:
Asso_man! wrote:I guess Ferretti mounted it under the chassis because he used a composite craft nose plate that is totally flat and had most probably problems with mounting the steering rack without any binding/scratching. If you use the standard aluminium nose plate, mount it on the top of the chassis, like on a gold tub...
I think I know what you mean. Like the proper RC10 nose plate has a kink where it joins the chassis right? I think Ferretti has used the same nose plate as me and generally the cars are very similar and I didn't seem to have any binding problems....

Speak up Ferretti, I need to know 8)

This thread makes me really want to finish mine first!!! :lol:
The nose plate I have has chamfered edges, if it were mounted on top the chamfer would be the wrong direction, does that make sense :?: I will try and post a pic to illustrate when I get home from work.
Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.

Here's my TC Showroom
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=18028

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